Table texture vs. starting hands

[Hambone]

Hey guys, this is my first post here, look forward to contributing (mostly questions at first).

Anyway, so my first question is regarding starting hand requirements and how they change value with number of opponents and table texture (loose, tight, passive, aggressive) and position. Basically I'm looking for a sanity check on the following examples (but please feel free to add anything on this topic, I'm all ears):

Small/Med pairs:
-Like loose/semi aggressive tables.
-Position not as important as with connectors/suited. But more important as pair value goes up.
-Like either 1 opponent or 4+ opponents (is it 4 or 5?).
-Add more / correct / elaborate here heh.

Suited Connectors:
-Like loose passive tables.
-Prefer late position, unraised pot.
-Need ?? opponents to generally be profitable.
-Should raise preflop or with 4 to flush when ?? opponents may call.


I'd love any advice on straight draws (how many opponents do you need calling in order to gain (assuming pot odds are exactly on par)).

Also, what is a "value" bet. Is it a bet when you are getting the best of it (positive ev), or something else? What are some appropriate examples of value bets.

Please feel free to add or correct anything I've missed, either with those two examples or others you think of. Thanks for your time, nice to meet you all.

Chris

[LetsRock]

I'll tell you my thoughts on the subject, but I'm sure someone more qualified will chime in as well.

I handle both hand types pretty much the same way. Both require pretty significant pot odds to be worth playing, so I generally play small PPs (66 and lower) and higher suited connectors (89 and up) from late position with lots of previous limpers and "little chance" that there is likely to be a raise behind me. This insures that you get the propre odds in the pot to "fish" for a set or straight/flush draw. I ususally will limp with 77 and up (99 and up of course become candidates for open raising) from EP unless it's a very aggressive table.

These hands can sometimes be played from earlier position if you have an extremely loose/passive table so you can expect the same conditions to exist. I find it to be rare to find these conditions, so you'd do well to train yourself to pass on these hands in EP (and usually MP) as a general rule. They are also much more difficult to play from EP if you get just enough of the flop to get in trouble, so unless you're a very strong post-flop player, be carful with these hands in EP.

Regarding straight draws, the number of opponents is not important if the pot is big enough to justify the call. Of course, more opponents early = bigger pot, but it is possible for many opponents to fold after the flop and still have odds to keep drawing.

I see "value betting" similar to a semi-bluff: your bet may convince others to lay down a hand that may be better "now", but your hand could become best on future streets even if they don't go away. Semi-bluffing and value bets are great for disguising straight and flush draws; you don't suddenly start betting when you fill up.

This is a pretty shallow address of your questions, but it's how I tend to approach it.