Difference between PP 5/10 and 10/20 short

[girgy44]

I have been working my way up the party 6 max game spending 2 months at 1/2 short, and 3 at 5/10. I am running at about 2.3BB/100 over 25k hands(all 5/10 short), and feel that I would like to take a shot at 10/20. I am going to go into this with some sort of limit as to how much I can lose, probably 100BB or so which I know is not all that much overall in the short game in general, but I want to take a shot.

So what are the main differneces between 5/10 and 10/20? From lurking I have picked up that 5/10 players are much more passive, which I have definitely taken advantage of, and I suppose poorer in general. Are there really a lot less fish in 10/20 or are they just a little richer? I also have not run into too many players who are capable of making many tricky plays(or maybe I haven't noticed?). I would be greatful for any words of wisdom or advice. Anyone reccomend not taking the shot? (This was the way I got into 5/10 as well. I won early and was then able to control the swings and I have never dropped into the red regarding 5/10.)

[helpmeout]

I havent played $10/$20 that long but I am probably going to mix limits for a bit now.

$10/$20 the players are much tougher.

You'll find people checkraising way more, sometimes as a semi bluff, bluff or from slowplaying. You get a lot of guys checkraising with A high on the turn HU.

There are way more LAGs, not just the good kind that bet anything. There are thinking LAGs, they'll suck you into calling them down all the time.

You need reads otherwise you will get run over. It is easy to just fold/call down too often, people will play you not just the cards. Even the weak passive guys will change their game when you start folding to their bets everytime.

This is the first limit where I have struggled to find enough fish to 2 table consistantly (I am fussy with table selection).

I'd suggest you datamine a lot before settling in.

[TwoNiner]

A lot more variance in the 10-20 game. There are bad players there as well, but most of the bad ones are crappy and aggressive rather than crappy and just plain weak. Start out playing one table of 10-20 and really pay attention and work your way into it.

[girgy44]

When you say datamine, how exactly does that work? After opening a table up what do you do in PT to accomplish this?

[Packerfan1]

Not to be the one that points out the obvious... but its important.

250BB at 5/10 is $2,500. at 10/20 its $5,000.

I think its commonly accepted that even the best of us can hit a 250BB downturn at any given time in the 6max games (I've had two of them in 4 months in fact).

If your bankroll is ready, then you probably are. If you're going to get bent the first time you drop $1000 in an hour or less... stick to the 5/10 game.

Pack

[girgy44]

Yeah thanks, My roll is at about 9k so I should be fine if I am a solid 10/20 player which I may not be, but again: someone help me out with exactly how to datamine please.

[Michael Davis]

9K definitely does not guarantee going broke at the 10-20 even for a good player.

-Michael

[girgy44]

[ QUOTE ]
9K definitely does not guarantee going broke at the 10-20 even for a good player.


[/ QUOTE ]

I assume you mean does not guarantee not going broke? But as I said in the original post I wasn't ready to risk it all, I would drop back to 5/10 at a point set going into the proposed jump.

[Jeff W]

If you have the stomach for it, I would recommend setting aside 200 BB for the 10/20. 100 BB downswings are common. A 200 BB downswing is fairly unlikely for a winning player, but if it happens, you will still have plenty of roll to play the 5/10. 200 BB gives you a chance to prove whether you can beat the game or not.

[Danenania]

If you plan on playing for a prolonged period I'd suggest a minimum of 10k as a working bankroll. 9k is fine to start but I'd be ready to drop down if you have a really bad run at first. Good luck.