how to beat weak tight games?

[wheeler]

Hi, I'm new here.

Thanks to Ed Miller et al., I'm doing well in loose games, but I'm struggling in tighter games. In particular, what's the best way to beat the low-limit weak tight games at Ultimate Bet? In HEPAP, Sklansky and Mason suggest that much of your winnings in tight games will come from stealing on the flop and turn. This suggests you should play looser than your opponents to see more flops. But I'm not sure these games are tight enough, or the players good enough, for this to apply. So is it better to play even tighter than your opponents do and win with superior post-flop play?

Thanks!

[Vern]

Hi, I'm Vern, I'm a recovering weak/tightie, welcome to the meeting.....

If it is truly weak/tight, it means they play good starting hands and fold them when they miss the flop, fit/fold mentality. They are easy to get out of pots, even when they actually have odds to draw. They hate to call two and will rarely extract the most from you when they do hit unless they have a lock on the nuts. In otherwords, a normal Tight/Aggressive approach is perfect for these tables. The aggression is the key because it keeps them playing scared.

My experience at UB lower limits table is there are more passive players that will call you down than weak/tighties. They are more concerned that you may bluff them out of a pot and will not fold. Although weak/tighties can be found in many places I have not observed an unusual amount at UB lower limits.

Vern

[wheeler]

Thanks for the reply Vern. As you suspected, I didn't properly understand what "weak tight" meant.

[radek2166]

Great post Vern

[MicroBob]

good post vern.

i recommend just playing a relatively tight-aggressive game. when steal opportunities come then perhaps give them a shot.
get a read on the table and any specific players.
get a read on how you think the table is reading you.
if you think the table is getting wise to your steals then you may need to slow-down (if you think they will call you down with bottom-pair, etc).


much of ed's ideas are CONDITIONAL.
and he will mention examples of how to play it if you think the players are a little bit sharper, etc.
look at the pot-odds and number of players in the hand and make your best judgement.


while it can sometimes appear that Ed's advice is entirely geared for the ultra-loose game i don't think this is really true.
many of the ideas apply to virtually all games that you and i are likely to encounter.


for a better feel of what to do when you are heads-up on the flop (which can definitely happen in some of the UB games) try posting some hands.
explain that it's an extremely weak-passive UB table and you're still feeling out the best way to approach these.

[Wahoo91]

I have just fininshed playing several thousand hands at UB .25/.50 and a lot of these players are weak/tight.

They will fold more often than not on the turn and river to agression. Don't get me wrong, there are a lot of tight passive that will call you down, but UB has far more than their share of weak/tights.

I find UB to be by far the toughest game on the net at micro-limits.

[Vern]

[ QUOTE ]
...Don't get me wrong, there are a lot of tight passive that will call you down, but UB has far more than their share of weak/tights.

I find UB to be by far the toughest game on the net at micro-limits.

[/ QUOTE ]

I have not seen this, the .25/.50 game at UB is about as soft as any at that limit out there. Weak/Tight means you won't get that one 20BB hand, but you get so many small ones you make much money without the huge suck out in the huge pot. This is not a good trade off, I would rather have Loose/Passive, but weak/tighties are safer than LAGs. The problem I have had with UB is they don't have a huge core of weak/tight at the .5/1 and 1/2 games, a player sits down and I wait to see if he is a TAG or LAG and am surprised when he appears to fit another classification.