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  #11  
Old 06-27-2005, 04:40 PM
lstream lstream is offline
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Default Re: I\'m playing too many hands..

[ QUOTE ]
100/8=12.5

[/ QUOTE ]
Not quite, since this assumes all of your bring-ins are played until fourth. Point taken though - when you factor in the bring-ins that go to fourth, 15% or so is mondo tight.
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  #12  
Old 06-27-2005, 04:42 PM
bigredlemon bigredlemon is offline
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Default Re: I\'m playing too many hands..

you bring in about 12.5% of the time. You'll see 4th with that hand so long as no one raises. That's what I'm talking about. I don't have exact stats but i'd ballpark half to 1/3rd of my to-fourth % as a free ride.
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  #13  
Old 06-27-2005, 04:45 PM
jon_1van jon_1van is offline
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Default Re: I\'m playing too many hands..

[ QUOTE ]
Just keep in mind that it’s almost impossible to play too tight, especially in this tight structure.

[/ QUOTE ]

A very good thing to keep in mind.

It also lets you 6 table [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] which lets you play 6 times as many hands 1/6th as good [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
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  #14  
Old 06-27-2005, 04:49 PM
beta1607 beta1607 is offline
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Default Re: I\'m playing too many hands..

I understand what you are saying - and either way it is close. I just think that an A on 4th 5th or 6th either way will slow down the action against a big pair whereas a 3 will allow you to trap your opponent for multiple bets. Also - It is easier to out play an opponent later on when you are showing an A. I think that you only make less with (33)A when you pair your A on 4th or 5th and the opponent doesn't have two pair yet.
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  #15  
Old 06-27-2005, 04:50 PM
BeerMoney BeerMoney is offline
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Default Re: I\'m playing too many hands..

[ QUOTE ]
you bring in about 12.5% of the time. You'll see 4th with that hand so long as no one raises. That's what I'm talking about. I don't have exact stats but i'd ballpark half to 1/3rd of my to-fourth % as a free ride.

[/ QUOTE ]

OK, I realize what you meant as soon as lstream posted. And I agree, its a good point.

At 10/20 in particular, u don't really get too many free rides from the bring in.

Oh, and you're 12.5% BI is way off, i'm the bring in 75% of hands today.
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  #16  
Old 06-27-2005, 04:58 PM
beta1607 beta1607 is offline
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Default Re: I\'m playing too many hands..

[ QUOTE ]
Just keep in mind that it’s almost impossible to play too tight, especially in this tight structure.


[/ QUOTE ]

Remember the double edge sword - the tighter you play the easier it is to slip into predictability...

Also to quote Mike McD "you can't win what you don't put in the middle"
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  #17  
Old 06-27-2005, 05:08 PM
Bartholow Bartholow is offline
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Default Re: I\'m playing too many hands..

I would agree with what you are saying about outplaying people later, except that position helps you outplay a lot too. Overall I think that is a wash.

[ QUOTE ]
I think that you only make less with (33)A when you pair your A on 4th or 5th and the opponent doesn't have two pair yet.

[/ QUOTE ]

Do you mean that you get called down when you pair your A doorcard by two pair a lot??? If that's what you are saying, I guess our difference is just that we play in different games maybe. If that's not what you are saying, then I'm not sure what you ARE saying.

Again though, I think they both have advantages depending on the situation. Honestly I play (33)A more, but only because I often open raise with it as a semi-steal. If I'm playing against an open raising Q (and if I play at all here it's because they don't have to have queens), and I don't think there's a decent chance that I can re-steal or something, I'd generally much rather have (3A)3.
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  #18  
Old 06-27-2005, 05:19 PM
beta1607 beta1607 is offline
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Default Re: I\'m playing too many hands..

[ QUOTE ]
Do you mean that you get called down when you pair your A doorcard by two pair a lot???

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes - its hard to say exactly how often since I never know when they folded two pair and of course it is better to catch the A later in terms of getting paid off but it is not uncommon by any means to be called down on 4th with hands like K7K7 against my 33AA.

Since I didn't put in a 3rd bet preflop they dont think I have three of a kind and have no way of knowing I have a pair in the hole instead of three suited or three straight etc.
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  #19  
Old 06-29-2005, 07:13 AM
Doctavian Doctavian is offline
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Default Winning depends on what we do before we get to the table! Doc AZ

Dear Beer,

If you play the hands that you say you’re playing, you should be playing approximately one in seven to one in eight hands. Not the one in five hands you calculate.

But your not!

What could be wrong!

The most common errors come in evaluating our straight draws. Let's say you start with three cards to a max connector. How many of your primary cards are live? How many of your secondary ones?

ie: You start with a 789 How many 5s, 6s, 10s, and jacks are out? Is your hand really live? How live are your 7s,8s, and 9s. Remember mathematical provability tells us that we are more likely to hit 2 pair with 3 max connectors than we are our straight! (See Constantine Otmer's Book on Stud Also Mohamed Mohammad's work on the mathematical science of Poker.

What are your requirements for starting with a dead primary or two dead secondary cards.?


( Straight draws are the most common starting hand error and it may be a problem in your case, then again it may not)


Are your starting cards really live? I think C Otmer and R West’s books, give the best explanations of connected starting cards.
SFAP is also a good work.


Considering your pairs: Are both your pair cards and your kickers live?

What is your definition of a live flush? What are your parameters for differentiating the calling requirement between a nut flush draw and a medium flush draw?

How do you alter your starting hand requirements depending on your position in the hand?

Gifted players can relax their starting hand requirements a little. IF they can play fourth street near perfectly.

Here is a recommendation. I think that Sklansky et all’s work on Stud is the best overall. But I prefer West’s and Otmer’s books on the description of starting hands.

It would cost you less to buy all three of those books, and master them that, what you loose in one bad night at the tables.

When I was starting out, I bought all three of those books.


I read them onto a tape recorder and listened to each of them on my walkman or car radio 7 times.

I know that you may think that I am nuts. But what I did do was to start winning at stud the first month I played. And have been successful for the last 15 years.

I feel that the key to winning is WHAT WE DO AWAY from the table not necessarily what we do at the table.

Get the books I mentioned, and get a home computer stud simulator (that corrects your mistakes)

About 8 years ago I asked a friend (who at the time was ranked fourth in the world, as far as money’s he’d won in stud tournaments the previous year) what he thought strengthened his game the most. And he told me that a computer simulator had.

He said that he still used his stud simulator, about an hour each night.

Good luck and God bless.

Your friend,

Doc AZ
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  #20  
Old 06-29-2005, 09:29 AM
BeerMoney BeerMoney is offline
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Default Re: Winning depends on what we do before we get to the table! Doc AZ


Doc, thanks for the response.

To answer your questions.

As far as the 3-straights go, I really look for a reason to fold these hands, although I will sneak in for the BI if I think I can sometimes.

Pairs: I play my big pairs almost always.

Flush draws: I only play if one or fewer of my suit is out. The ranks of my cards don't usually change whether or not I play the hand, rather how I play them.

Small pairs with good kickers.. I only play if all of my cards are live.

One thing I've learned in the year i've been playing this game is the value of live cards. They often give me the extra suck-out potential I like to have in a hand.

Please realize that the 19-20% that I am playing is a figure given from stats on PartyPoker, and also includes hands where I am forced to be the bring in.
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