SSNL F.A.Q. v2.0

[fimbulwinter]

nice post, one of these needs to get stickied.

one thing you might wanna say is that MH should be stacks >/= ~100BB and blinds >/= 2/4. so $200 2/5 games and the like really don't belong in midhigh unless you're looking at two $500ish stacks going at it. diablo said it best: "MH is for deep hands at high stakes against good players. you can't go wrong posting in SSNL." I post some hands played against donkeys here because, even though sometimes the money is bigger, the principles are the same and therefore this audience would learn more from it/enjoy it more.

fim

ps- might wanna put PTBB, BB, BB/100 and BB/hr etc.in your abbreviations.

[istewart]

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Championship No-Limit & Pot-Limit Hold'Em by TJ Cloutier

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This book sucks.

[ClaytonN]

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I'm not a fan of racing, or being a slight favorite, in cash games.

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This is absolutely horrible advice. If you have an +EV scenario in a cash game, the money goes into the pot. The only thing that could skew this line of thought is if you're playing underbankrolled, which is foolish to begin with.

Oh, and Cloutier's NLHE book BLOWWWSSS

[BZ_Zorro]

I agree it is a bit condescending at times and a bit too personal sounding. JMO, and I'm not going to write a better one. Apart from that it's clear, easy to read, and exactly the sort of thing a newbie would find helpful. Far better than anything that's been done before imo.

Only one issue, this is a 2+2 forum, paid for by them, and I think it's appropriate that we list 2+2 books first. Or at least put several of them in the list.
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A: Any of the following would be excellent choices for reading material:

* PL & NL Poker by Bob Ciaffone & Stewart Reuben
* Super System by Doyle Brunson
* Championship No-Limit & Pot-Limit Hold'Em by TJ Cloutier


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[-Skeme-]

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This is absolutely horrible advice.

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It wasn't advice. It was my personal opinion. I'm not gonna call 10BBs preflop with 33 in HOPES that someone has KJo to race for a pot in which I've invested nothing. Sure, going in with 33 against KJo is definitely +EV, but I choose to put 10BBs in preflop in better spots. Like I said, "That's just my preference, though."


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This book sucks.

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I think the hate this book generates isn't justififed. I thought the book was a decent read. I think I read it long before PL & NL Poker, though.


I agree with you fimbul. Someone else PMd me about that aswell. I should define SSNL/MH between BBs in play, not the actual buyin.


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I agree it is a bit condescending at times and a bit too personal sounding.

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I guess I'm missing the parts where I come off as condescending.


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Only one issue, this is a 2+2 forum, paid for by them, and I think it's appropriate that we list 2+2 books first. Or at least put several of them in the list.

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I will add 2+2 books to that question when either of the two things occurr. 1) People start asking for great books on poker in general, or 2) When 2+2 puts out a NL book on cash games. I'm unaware if they have any.

ToP is in my opinion the best poker book there is. It's THE book to have for any poker player, but it's not a NL cash game specific book, and that's what all of the newbies ask.

[soah]

It might make more sense to put "What is VP$IP" after "What is Pokertracker"

As far as the abbreviations go...

LAP is wrong. In Al's book, LAP refers to "Loose Aggressive Player" (while LAG is Loose Aggressive Game). The A just doesn't make any sense for Loose Passive. I think you meant to use LPP. And if you're using LPP then you might as well inclue all the others... TAA, etc.

I also think you should mention EP, MP, LP, and their counterparts EMP and LMP.

Some others that aren't used quite as much, but still useful... PSB, C+R, SS, TOP, c/r

With regards to this question: "What should be my calling ranges when a short stack pushes preflop?"

I think it would be best to advise people to consider the following: Have I observed this opponent overplaying marginal hands previously, or have they been more on the passive side? Is their all-in raise a large overbet, or was their stack short enough that they had little choice but to go all-in with any hand they played? From here you can begin to estimate how strong their hand would need to be in order to go all-in. Then you consider... How many people are left to act behind me? Have other people in the pot already shown strength (did anyone else raise before the shortstack went all-in)? Remember that beating the shortstack is useless if another player has both of you beaten. What are the pot odds that I am getting.... if I call here, what percentage of the time must I win in order to show a profit? Another way to look at this is to observe the amount of dead money already in the pot in relation to the size of the current bet.

[-Skeme-]

Will make changes momentarily. Might take a while, just moved up in limits and want to play a bit before more research. Thanks for the comments everybody. Keep PMing me with more ideas.

[soah]

I just realized that you linked to a LIMIT hand when discussing flopped quads. I don't think that is too useful. The discussion in that thread wasn't anything spectacular anyway.

I think you would be better off just advising people to attempt to build the pot early after flopping a monster. If no one else has much of a hand then you will not win very much regardless of what you do, so the best approach is to assume that someone has a decent hand and take whatever line will get the most from them.

[-Skeme-]

How in the hell did I do that? lol

[fl0w]

Also, for some reason the shorthanded auto-rate rules you linked to wont load in PT, but the full ring rules does.