GSIH Question: Not short anymore

[talcum]

I posted this on small stakes no limit but didn't get much response so wanted to see if anyone here has any thoughts and possibly the esteemed author can expand on this...

I'm curious to know if anyone here has tried the small stack no limit strategy in "Getting Started in Holdem". I have played some $25 and $50 Party no limit and have done pretty well though I only have about 10,000 hands so far. But this weekend I decided to try the small stack strategy and bought in for $50 at a $200 max table. I ended up winning a bit but lost my buy in a few times. One of the 'rules' is to reraise all-in with AK when you are reraised. I lost my buy in a couple times with this particular move. It seems like (at least at the $50 max and above tables) that a preflop reraise is usually JJ or higher pair or AK. In this case wouldn't it be better to call and see the flop or fold pre-flop?


Since I wrote this, I have lost a couple more buy-ins but it is good to know it is working for others and maybe I just need to keep trying.

[razor]

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Actually, on that particular flop it might be better not to push. The pot's big enough that your money is probably going in, and if he has an ace, you're going to lose. But you'd like to induce a bluff if at all possible.

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Would doing the same if Hero was first to act also be a legitimate option?

[jpg7n16]

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If playing against generally thinking, observant opponents, who are aware of this strategy and will pick up on it, then surely you will get blinded away in the long run - even after making some refinements to blind defense. E.g. everyone will fold unless they hold a premium hand (AA/KK). You will end up paying the blinds more than you win them, and when called you will be getting the worst of it.

Although it seems to be working at NL $600/$1000 for now, surely if it becomes a reasonably popular strategy, then the defense against it will also become obvious & widespread.

A couple of other Questions:

1. Is there a summary of this strategy for free anywhere. I would love to know more, but find it hard to justify buying the book for one small section....

2. Anyway to adapt this for 6-max? I Imagine the blinding-away problem is exacerbated, but it may be possible to loosen the hand requirements (esp. against bad players).

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So what if you add improvements to blind stealing to make up for the blinds you'll lose?

and you mean that it's been working against you at the 600 and 1000? Cause you couldn't mean it has been working for you if you're asking what it is in question 1...

[nomdeplume]

I don't think there are any hard and fast rules here, you just have to look at the texture of the flop and the number of opponents you're facing. You also take into account the likelihood that your opponent(s) will fold.

Having said that, since in EP and MP you're only playing premium hands, I think you'll quite often have at least overcards (maybe with a broadway straight draw or other backdoor draws) and so you'll mostly always have outs if you do push.

In late position is where I think you'll have to do most thinking since you'll be playing weaker hands, but you have position to help you here. For example, if it's checked to you with 7 [img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img] 7 [img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img] in LP and the flop comes Q [img]/images/graemlins/heart.gif[/img] J [img]/images/graemlins/heart.gif[/img] 9 [img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img] against 4 opponents, you're probably unlikely to have the best hand. You're also quite likely to be called by at least one person and you're unlikely to improve if you are behind. But at least you have position to make the decision easier. Obviously if there's a bet and a raise before you, you can fold without thinking about it.

You still have to do some thinking, no matter how simplified the system. But only playing two streets has to be easier than playing four [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[Lawrence Ng]

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1. Is there a summary of this strategy for free anywhere. I would love to know more, but find it hard to justify buying the book for one small section....

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I purchased this book simply because of that one section alone.

Lawrence

[MonkeeMan]

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1. Is there a summary of this strategy for free anywhere. I would love to know more, but find it hard to justify buying the book for one small section....


[/ QUOTE ] I purchased this book simply because of that one section alone.

Lawrence

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Ditto.

[splashpot]

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Why would you hesitate to go all in here? This seems to me to be a very good flop for you. The two aces mean there's less chance your opponent holds an ace, and even if he/she does have a weak ace, they may fold to an all-in raise thinking they're outkicked.

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If that's the case, is there any flop that you wouldn't push? Or would you just push every flop?

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Actually, on that particular flop it might be better not to push. The pot's big enough that your money is probably going in, and if he has an ace, you're going to lose. But you'd like to induce a bluff if at all possible.

This is one (of many) ways that the "system" isn't optimal.

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Am I correct in deducing that the key factor in deciding when to try to induce bluffs is the risk you run by giving a free card. In my example, the only card that can hurt you if you're ahead is the K. Would I be correct to try inducing bluffs on similar flops where free cards are not very risky?

[cohibakid]

what would the size would the bankroll be for this system?

[Rudbaeck]

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what would the size would the bankroll be for this system?

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I guess the search really, really is broken if you couldn't find the answer when it's already posted in the same thread you posted in...

[SNOWBALL138]

this is a problem if you are playing live, because you can't just leave and come back 2 minutes later. If you are playing online though, you can just take a rinse and repeat approach.