1-2 NL home game

[kurosh]

Buy-in is $50. Blinds are 1-2. I'm in MP. Most hands that have been raised are going 3 or 4 handed to the flop at a 10 person table.

Me: $40
EP: $40
Loose-Passive on left: $100
Solid on left: $40
Pothead on left: $11

EP min-raises to $4. I have 99 and reraise to $8 to isolate. Loose-passive and solid both call. Pothead reraises all-in for $11. EP folds. House rules let me reraise so I reraise all-in for $29 more to try and get it headsup with pothead.

EP's min-raise means he doesn't have a very strong hand, confirmed by his folding.

Loose-passive will call with anything to try and hit something. Even after the flop misses him he'll still call another decent sized bet.

Solid plays pretty tight preflop. If there's a lot of action unless he has AA/KK, he'll fold. He would have reraised with premium hands.

Pothead is just that... a pothead.

I also had an extremely tight image. The only hands I had showed down were AK, JJ and J8 with two pair in the big blind.

[kurosh]

Bu-bu-bump

[dmk]

This is read-based, but if you're very sure that everyone else will fold, I think its fine. There's definitely enough dead money in the pot to want to get it headsup.

[kurosh]

Meh I guess no one cares but maybe the results will get some more posts.

Loose-passive thinks for a long time then calls. Solid mucks AQs. Loose-passive and pothead both turn over KQs. Loose-passive hit a flush on the river and pothead hit a straight on the river [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

[Wayfare]

The fact that you have only 20x BB means that the game you are playing is not poker. It's look at my two cards and go all in game.

I don't think it matters how any hand with 20x bb is played. If you have a hand preflop and there is action go all in, and reload if you lose. Rinse repeat.

EDIT: This is one of the laest bad beat posts I can remember.

[Ben]

[ QUOTE ]
Pothead is just that... a pothead.

[/ QUOTE ]

Good read.

[DavidC]

I'm just going to rephrase what Wayfare said here.

Stacks are shallow, which really sucks, so you're in with a coin flip with any action. You can't expect to win a coinflip more than half the time (though you're just a tad better than a coinflip).

Now, with those two guys flipping over the same cards (KQs) you should be jumping around you're so happy: you're getting much better odds against their pairing (for your money) than you would against one of them, of course, and flushes aren't that common.

You lost, which sucks... see if you can get them to buy in for more or to reduce the blinds, this will let you really clean up.

I'm in a game where the buy is 50xbb, and I hate being so restricted. I would prefer to buy for 200xbb, though I'm willing to buy for 100xbb...

I have to convince the guy at the table who's most adamant that "buying in for the amount of the largest stack is unfair" that any amount that he holds over the second-highest stack is dead money.

The problem is that I don't want to explain it to him in too much detail, or he might figure out something about the game. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

--Dave.

[Richie Rich]

...you were actually asking a question in your original post?

[kurosh]

The people I play with always make it so the blinds are 20x or 25x the BB. They're don't understand the concept and think it's fine. Can't lower the blinds because it'd be too little for them and can't raise the buy-in because it'd be too much. I don't know how to explain it to them that 20xBB isn't very much room to work with. They just don't listen.

Oh yeah, and I DID forget to ask a question. Was I right to reraise all-in or should I have seen a flop and pushed in on a favorable one?

[Triumph36]

I also play in a 20 BB buy-in game regularly. The game can be good when it's four to six handed, but any higher and it means throwing away all the trap hands and looking for only premium hands, with no room to manuever. But it's also possible to win 4x the buy in fairly easily.

What's remarkable about a game like that is that stealing the blinds adds 1/15th to your stack.