difference between 3/6 and 5/10

[dark_horse]

my bankroll's almost up to $3000 but i'm still 3-tabling 2/4 and killing it. even now, i'm running pretty well, as after only 8500 hands of 2/4 i'm doing 3.23BB/100. that's likely to drop if i continue to play on to 25k hands of 2/4, but i'm more than likely to move up to 3/6 before i hit even 12k hands. when i played 1/2 and started the bankroll with $500, i broke absolutely even after 12k hands. was only able to move up because of deposit bonuses. i'm sure my skill has improved since then (started this whole mess last december), but 2/4 isn't much harder than 1/2 full. i still say it's easier. but you can think i'm crazy.

i know that once i move up to 3/6 my winrate will drop. however if i'm still winning and i am able to surge to $5000 without playing the requisite 10k hands minimum to see where you're at skillwise at that level (i subscribe to the 500BB rule, as i'm starting to get serious with this), would you recommend staying with 3/6 to get a "feel" for that level before playing at least 10k-15k hands and moving up to 5/10? i read in a post today that the jump from 3/6 to 5/10 isn't all that drastic, but the good players in 5/10 are better than the good players in 3/6. as it stands now, i am used to playing with total morons all day so i know that 3/6 will at first be a challenge for me.

[toss]

Start dabbling in the 3/6 tables. Moving straight up to 5/10 from 2/4 I wouldn't reccomend. Play two tables of 2/4 and 2 tables of 3/6. Sit down at a 5/10 table is it looks really good.

[dealer_toe]

Don't skip 3/6. It's the first limit you get to deal with some thinking TAG's.

[TheHammer24]

[ QUOTE ]
when i played 1/2 and started the bankroll with $500, i broke absolutely even after 12k hands. was only able to move up because of deposit bonuses.

[/ QUOTE ]

From this, it seems you are only moving up in limits because you have the bankroll to do so. This is not good logic. Make sure you are a winner at one level before you move up to the next.

[Falcon900EX]

Hello all,

what you guys think when are you beating the game enough to move up?
1,4BB/100 enough at 12000 hands at 2/4?

Greets

[TheHammer24]

Technically your beating the game. But at 2/4 2-3 even up to 8 BB/100 I've seen after 12,000 hands. The jump from 2/4 to 3/6 is huge in comparison to the jump from 1/2 to 2/4, which I believe is almost non-existant.

[shant]

I don't think a winrate matters at all here. I think it is about your confidence in your own ability. I left 3/6 where I had a good winrate and went into the 5/10 6max with over 500BB. I had a 0.03BB/100 for 25K hands at 5/10 6max. I took my 300BB and went to 10/20 full. Use good judgement in your skills and how comfortable you are in the game. The worst that can happen is you run bad and move back down. You may even run good like the fish I am and move up another level.

[Falcon900EX]

What are the differences that i can expect from moving from 2/4 to 3/6?
I play most of the time at the US morning, day and afternoon hours no never at peak times.
Also at the 12000 hands i got 1 big downswing of 200BB and thereafter the 200BB upswing.
Now i am at 1,4BB/100. I am 2 tabling but will ad 1 more table and i think if i still run over 1BB at 20000 hands i will move up.

Greets

[Harv72b]

That was my post you read. I say that a lot. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

I have always maintained that, once you get serious about your game and move off of the play money & penny bet games, the jump from 2/4 to 3/6 is the most difficult you'll face. At least up through 15/30; I haven't gone higher than that so I can't comment.

Because of that, I would recommend that everyone make a lengthy stay at 3/6 before moving up. Take some shots at 5/10 once you have the bankroll & confidence, sure, but stay on 3/6 as your default game for at least 20k hands, preferably more. You need that long to get used to the more focused aggression that more of your opponents will show at 3/6 & beyond, as well as to get a better handle on general postflop play in HUSH situations. Your move up the ranks should depend more on what skill sets you've developed than it should your bankroll, so long as you're not going way above said bankroll.

Like I said, I don't think that 5/10 is that much more difficult than 3/6 (for that matter, I don't think 10/20 is much more difficult than 5/10, and 15/30 than 10/20). But there are a lot of skills that you'll need on these higher stakes which you haven't really had to master on 2/4 & below. It's very possible that you're already adequately prepared for 5/10, but erring on the side of caution isn't going to hurt. If you bankroll grows in leaps and bounds while you're playing out the 3/6 hands, then hey--cash some out & buy yourself something nice, or take some shots at the big score in tournament play. [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

[naphand]

Actually technically he is NOT beating the game. 12K hands is way too small a sample to know this.

Consider your SD and look up if a 95% confidence interval guarantees you are in profit (i.e. the lower limit is above 0). You probably need 40-60K hands to get to this point.

Do NOT rely on your WR to determine if you are "beating" the game or ready to move up. You can play 20K hands break even as a 3BB/100 winner and you have no way of knowing if you are indeed winning 3BB/100 or just on a heater as a break-even or marginal winner, statistically speaking.

I repeat, you cannot rely on your stats from just 12K hands to determine if you are a winning player.

If you don't know you are beating the game (without reference to WR) then do not move up. Taking shots is good idea as this limits your exposure. Personally I like to see a min of 20K at any limit but prefer to play 30-40K before making any decisions about the limits beatability.

If you feel really comfortable playing the limit, can see lots of mistakes by your opponents and really are not challenged very much strategically (and making very few errors yourself) then by all means put aside a couple of buy-ins for $3/$6 and shoot.

There is a lot of talk of statistics from people who simply do not understand WTF they are looking at. Statistical reliability takes a LOT of hands for things like WR as it is dependent on many different and complex factors, it's not like PFR which begins to look realistic within a few hundred hands to a few 000's. PFR is a binary function (raise/do not raise) and the variation of a given sample from the mean is reliably described as a funtion of its square root (same as tossing a coin).