Building a home Poker Table

[cnorrick]

Very Nice! I might have to add lights when I redo my cheap foam rail with a nice vinyl rail. Great job!

-Chris Norrick
http://chris.norrick.com/poker_table

[SLyFiSH]

My railing wood is, in fact, 3/4". However, I made the top rail 1" wider than the layer just beneath it. I did this mostly based on how I knew I would be mounting the clear plastic clips that would position the rope lighting. I have them mounted with their backs facing the outer edge of the railing, so I wanted the recessed area to be deeper (from center of table to outer edge of table) than taller (playing surface to bottom edge of top rail layer).

Another thing to consider is the thickness of the padding you will use on the playing surface. My playing surface padding continue all the way to the edge of the playing surface which includes running under the rail where it overlays the table. This means that there's a certain amount of padding that eats into the 3/4" height of this recessed channel. Just another thing to keep in mind.

For me, 3/4" tall and 1" deep worked perfectly. The lights are set just back from the inner edge of the top layer of the rail, and they are dead center between the top of the playing surface and the bottom edge of the top layer of the rail.

Hope this helps,
-SLyFiSH

[SLyFiSH]

Chris,

Thanks for the comment. Actually, I had originally set out to build my table's playing surface much like your design with the finished wood area on the outer edge. However, once I got all my wood cuts outlined, I made a last minute decision that my padded playing area would be too small, so I decided to do away with that finished area. The benefit of that decision was that I was able to return about $80 worth of supplies to Home Depot that were purchased strictly for purposes of finishing that area of the wood.

If you add lights to yours, you'll need to update with pictures.

I guess I should have copyrighted the rope lighting idea. [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

-SLyFiSH

[Vuron00]

On the tables with the fabric insert and wood edges....

Has anyone found a way to make the insert flush with the surrounding wood. I like the look, but not the playability of the tables with the insert. You can't slide stacks of chips on or off the insert because its raised.

[hoterdoc]

EASY!!!
my padding under the felt is 1/4"
The finish grade plywood which forms the insert, is at the same level as the 1/4" 'infield' (the padded/felted part).
You simply need another 1/4" insert, cut out EXACTLY like your finished one. Then sandwich this between the base/support for the table, and the top layer finished insert.
You will have raised it flush to the level of the felted surface (minus the thickness of the felt)
Makes it a lot easier to SHOVE all in.
Hope this helps.
doc

[TenPercenter]

[ QUOTE ]
EASY!!!
my padding under the felt is 1/4"
The finish grade plywood which forms the insert, is at the same level as the 1/4" 'infield' (the padded/felted part).
You simply need another 1/4" insert, cut out EXACTLY like your finished one. Then sandwich this between the base/support for the table, and the top layer finished insert.
You will have raised it flush to the level of the felted surface (minus the thickness of the felt)
Makes it a lot easier to SHOVE all in.
Hope this helps.
doc

[/ QUOTE ]

Doc,

Is yours built this way? It sounds like a great idea, but it seems that the edge of the felted surface would slope down at the edges, squeezing the 1/4" pad. This shouldn't affect an All-In push, but it would leave a large groove for debris to build up. I can't decide which way to go on this one (I'm gonna build three of these at one time.)

Ten.

[Vuron00]

If you had a little overlap on the padding of the insert (so that it came down over the sides when you added the felt)... would this be enough to make it tighter against the outside ring to prevent the trash from getting along the edge?

[SLyFiSH]

You need to get a good luck at the tables they use for the World Poker Tour events on the Travel Channel. Their table design doesn't feature a wood outer ring, but rather an acrylic outer ring which I believe they light from underneath. Then the playing field in the middle is a padded/felted insert. I think if they have any such gap between the ring and the playing field, it's only minor.

-SLyFiSH

[jdogquads]

My step by step instructions are located at www.pcpotato.com/poker

Most every detail is covered there. Shoot me en email with any questions.

[kasual]

I've been following this thread and decided to put some pictures of the table I recently built, using some fantastic ideas I found right here on this message board! My table measures 7'x4' with rounded edges at 18", leaving a flat edge (I like the look of this). I used 3/4" particle board topped off with a 1/4" piece of beachwood (?), Oak was too rich for my blood. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] I used liquidnails and a bunch of clamps to hold the 2 pieces together. The table itself was connected to a 6'x2.5' banquet table that I purchased from big lots for 30 bucks. The fabric is vellux which I purchased from a local fabric store. I was dissappointed with this fabric, seems to rip easily and was debating on changing it until the first game i had and Icouldn't believe how many people accidently dropped ashes on the table (I allow smoking at the table due to the table being located in my garage, plus it's an extra tell to those who can pick it up [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] ) No point in spending 80 bucks for someone to put a whole in, I'll keep my 5 bucks per yard fabric. Cup holders and railing I purchased from www.casinosupply.com. I must say, I wasn't impressed with the railing. It is simply a piece of rubber for around pipes, nothing special, although I really do not know where to find something like it, I was just expecting more for $3.50 per foot. I did not connect the middle cut out to the table itself, I seemed to have done a nice job with the jigsaw and the insert sits inside very snug.

I am very pleased with how the table turned out. I would have liked to do something diffrent with the rope lighting but it wasn't in my orginial plan, I threw it on after I saw SLyFiSH's table. One reason I like the lights were they are located is, it's really easy to see your hole cards. Anyway, enjoy, and please ask any questions you like.