Any lessons to share at 2/4?

[Roadstar]

I'm thinking of moving up to 2/4 full ring and hoping to hear from those willing to share their stories/lessons when they moved up from 1/2 to 2/4.
Please be as concrete and specific as possible (I already know the generic "move up if you feel ready", "give it a shot but move back down if it doesn't work out") [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]


Greatly appreciate if you could include specifics relating to:

1) Table composition (on average, say on Party, how many LPP, LAGs and TAGS per table?)

2) Specific adjustments required at 2/4 preflop, flop and later streets.


Just for background, I've done about 12,000 hands at 1/2 with a 2BB/100 and under 7,000 hands at 1/2 6 max at 6BB/100 (I dunno still small sample I guess).

When I moved from .5/1 to 1/2 I had to make changes like folding small PP in EP at slightly tighter tables, learning to 3 bet LAGs to isolate, learning to open raise in LP (i.e. with KJo, A9o), slightly more check/raising (against a late position PFR, etc. So just hoping those at 2/4 (or above) could pass on some wisdom as to minimize my "tuition fees" at 2/4. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Thanks guys!

[MrWookie47]

I have some thoughts along those lines here.

[Paxosmotic]

You'll hate my reply, as it's nowhere near as specific as you like, but here goes. 2/4 is exactly the same as 1/2. The big jump is .5/1 -> 1/2. The jump to 2/4 is such a cake walk. You can expect your winrate to drop only fractionally, making 2/4 much more profitable overall. My recommendation would be to set aside 200BB for 2/4 (that's $800 for you math geniuses) and take a shot at it.

I think that as you move up from .5/1 --> 1/2 --> 2/4 it becomes harder to find really good loose passive tables. So table selection is really important.

In general that the players are a little better so you pay more when you make mistakes, and the other players don't make as many mistakes. I think paying attention to how people play becomes much more important, I basically just autopilot at 1/2 and that becomes a problem at 2/4 because I have found that the play starts to become more aggressive, i.e. people bluff raising more and stuff like that.

I'm not probably not the best source though I have 54K hands at 1/2 at 3BB/100, but through 18K hands at 2/4 I am only .34BB/100.

[MrWookie47]

Try sitting down at empty 2/4 tables. You can thank me (and Grunch) later.

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Try sitting down at empty 2/4 tables. You can thank me (and Grunch) later.

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I have heard of this strategy, is that how you game select at 2/4?

[MrWookie47]

Every time. You start of taking money from loose passive players who don't know how to play short, and then you take money from a whole lot of loose passive players who don't know how to play full.

[ QUOTE ]
Every time. You start of taking money from loose passive players who don't know how to play short, and then you take money from a whole lot of loose passive players who don't know how to play full.

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Thanks, though I think I have to learn how to play short myself first [img]/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]

[SCfuji]

do you wait until the table fills to 3 or 4 handed before sitting in or start right off playing hu? i think playing hu sucks on party.

[tiltaholic]

[ QUOTE ]
You'll hate my reply, as it's nowhere near as specific as you like, but here goes. 2/4 is exactly the same as 1/2. The big jump is .5/1 -> 1/2. The jump to 2/4 is such a cake walk. You can expect your winrate to drop only fractionally, making 2/4 much more profitable overall. My recommendation would be to set aside 200BB for 2/4 (that's $800 for you math geniuses) and take a shot at it.

[/ QUOTE ]

i second this.
except for me, me 2/4 winrate was a tenth of my 1/2 winrate. winrates are for sissies...

focus on your play and your opponents everything else you do at 1/2. the limit is incidental (assuming you are rolled for it)