When to move from 1/2 to 3/6?

[alfatcat]

Since the 3/6 game is still relatively new, I don't think I've seen any posts suggesting appropriate metrics to know when you're ready to move up from 1/2 6-max to 3/6 6-max.

I ask this question in general, but I'll also give some personal context:

Bankroll is not an issue.
I've got about 10K hands of 1/2 6 max under my belt.
stats snapshot:
BB/100: 3.4
VP$IP: 28.5 (total), 25.4 (with a full 6 max table)
PFR: 17
AF: 2.2

I'm a winning player at 2/4 full at about 2BB/100 over a few 100K hands. I started playing the 1/2 6-max game to work on hand reading skills (has definitely helped) but it is also a lot of fun and looks to be more profitable at 3/6 than the full game.

What kind of adjustments am i going to need to make to my game?

And inspired by the discussion about sustainable BB/100 at 3/6. Any thoughts on what it would be at 1/2?

If money isn't a problem try it for a couple of thousand hands and see how it feels. But I think playing 10k-20k hands of 2/4 6-max is worth the time to adjust to the bigger dollar swings and slightly more aggro game.

Oh, and a question... practicing hand reading skill at 1/2 6-max? [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] I thought it was the holy land of value-betting.

[RunDownHouse]

Move up ASAP. Seriously, if BR isn't a concern, take a shot. I'm in the camp that thinks you should rocket through the lower levels until you feel that you can't handle either the play or the sums being thrown around. If you've been there for 10k, you know whether or not you can beat it, so if you've got the roll, move on.

[Alobar]

if bankroll isnt an issue, then def move up. If you find you cant beat it or its harder than you thought, you can always move back down.

[bdmcgraw]

definitely move up u will beat the game almost as well as u beat the 1/2 game

[sethypooh21]

Move up, or try 2/4 at Stars (which is also a good game. Very good at times, but a bit less sheer donkery then the 1/2). Table selection is important in the 3/6, so pay attention to that.

As for your other question, I think, single tabling, 8+bb/100 is sustainable at the 1/2. For reference, when I REALLY sucked (as opposed to my current sorta-sucky/approaching-competence status) I ran over 4.5 bb/100 for about 50k hands 4,5 and 6 tabling, with no table selection. The 1/2 is, as someone told me at the time, not much more then a tedious exercise in value betting...

[Poldi]

[ QUOTE ]
Move up ASAP. Seriously, if BR isn't a concern, take a shot. I'm in the camp that thinks you should rocket through the lower levels until you feel that you can't handle either the play or the sums being thrown around. If you've been there for 10k, you know whether or not you can beat it, so if you've got the roll, move on.

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree with this. 10-15k hands is all you need when you got the roll.

[pokergrader]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Move up ASAP. Seriously, if BR isn't a concern, take a shot. I'm in the camp that thinks you should rocket through the lower levels until you feel that you can't handle either the play or the sums being thrown around. If you've been there for 10k, you know whether or not you can beat it, so if you've got the roll, move on.

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree with this. 10-15k hands is all you need when you got the roll.

[/ QUOTE ]

Basically you are just learning the pre-flop game at 1/2, because once you switch to 3/6 your post-flop game is going to change a lot when you have to deal with much more aggression.

With good table selection though, the 3/6 is just as soft as the 1/2. Just make sure you dont find yourself at a table with 5 other TAGs.