KK: Hero has no clue

[BoxTree]

Commerce, 9-handed, 400 NL, 5/10 Blinds

Relevant stacks/reads:

Hero: $1,300
Villain: $1,800, has been playing slightly loose and pretty reasonable postflop. Has not been caught bluffing and I don't suspect he has bluffed in any large pots.

Hero is UTG+1 with K[img]/images/graemlins/heart.gif[/img]K[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img]

UTG folds, Hero makes it 40, 6 of 7 call. If you don't believe me, ask Private Joker.

Flop (7 players, $280): 5[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img]4[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img]5[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img]

Hero bets $300, Some folds, Villain (MP) calls $300, Some more folds.

Turn (HU, $880): 9[img]/images/graemlins/heart.gif[/img]

Hero...?

Villain likely has:

a) a five
b) a medium pocket pair and thinks I have AK
c) a flush/straight draw with two overs (on the flop)
d) absolute nonsense

If he were last to act on the flop, I wouldn't be so sure that he has a five. The fact that he smooth-called the flop with players left to act behind him makes a five more likely. Would he really smooth call here with a draw or PP when there are other players left to act? If anyone behind him has a five, that player will now almost certainly push (much of the table had deep stacks, so a push wouldn't be small potatoes), and now Villain has to fold his PP or pay a filthy price for his draw.

So, what do I do?

And is my flop bet okay?

I'm not a live player, but online this looks like a good spot to push

besides another K, this turn card is the best possible card for you.

edit: Oh yeah, and the flop bet is ok. Maybe some people would like $250 or something, but a bet is mandatory. Actually I like your exact number of 300 because it means a turn push is not a huge overbet.

[Big_Jim]

How many people called between you and villian?

The fewer people, the less likely he has a 5.

Also, raise more PF. Probably way more.

[iceman5]

$5/$10NL with a $400 buy in? YUCK!

[BoxTree]

[ QUOTE ]
$5/$10NL with a $400 buy in? YUCK!

[/ QUOTE ]

I really don't understand why people keep bashing this form of game. When you first buy-in, you're pretty much required to play disgustingly tight until you double up. Then you can loosen up depending on the other stack sizes (and player quality but the players are usually so bad that this doesn't factor into whether you should loosen up). The high blind structure is ignored by many players who play too loose, call too many raises, quickly become very shortstacked, push in with crappy hands, and rebuy. It's a great way to keep money flowing into the game.

[Big_Jim]

[ QUOTE ]
I really don't understand why people keep bashing this form of game.

[/ QUOTE ]

[ QUOTE ]
When you first buy-in, you're pretty much required to play disgustingly tight until you double up.

[/ QUOTE ]

[img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

[BoxTree]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I really don't understand why people keep bashing this form of game.

[/ QUOTE ]

[ QUOTE ]
When you first buy-in, you're pretty much required to play disgustingly tight until you double up.

[/ QUOTE ]

[img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

I come from a limit background where tight play is the standard. In a game where I only need to START tight and actually get the chance to play crap when I have enough chips...well...it's like a carnival for me.

[kagame]

when i played in this i would take extra $100 chips and add them to my stack at convenient intervals

its really easy to double up this way ;-)

[wdeadwyler]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
$5/$10NL with a $400 buy in? YUCK!

[/ QUOTE ]

I really don't understand why people keep bashing this form of game. When you first buy-in, you're pretty much required to play disgustingly tight until you double up. Then you can loosen up depending on the other stack sizes (and player quality but the players are usually so bad that this doesn't factor into whether you should loosen up). The high blind structure is ignored by many players who play too loose, call too many raises, quickly become very shortstacked, push in with crappy hands, and rebuy. It's a great way to keep money flowing into the game.

[/ QUOTE ]

This is pretty much the opposite strategy you should employ. If the blinds and antes (in hold em's case, just blinds) are large relative to your stack (this case of 40bb qualifies). Then you should actually loosen your starting hand requirements and steal alot. This is str8 out of Theory of Poker.

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
$5/$10NL with a $400 buy in? YUCK!

[/ QUOTE ]

I really don't understand why people keep bashing this form of game. When you first buy-in, you're pretty much required to play disgustingly tight until you double up. Then you can loosen up depending on the other stack sizes (and player quality but the players are usually so bad that this doesn't factor into whether you should loosen up). The high blind structure is ignored by many players who play too loose, call too many raises, quickly become very shortstacked, push in with crappy hands, and rebuy. It's a great way to keep money flowing into the game.

[/ QUOTE ]

This is pretty much the opposite strategy you should employ. If the blinds and antes (in hold em's case, just blinds) are large relative to your stack (this case of 40bb qualifies). Then you should actually loosen your starting hand requirements and steal alot. This is str8 out of Theory of Poker.

[/ QUOTE ]

It is straight out of TOP, but you have to take into account the game flow. If it's really loose (and live), people will generally look you up more - making your bluffs more susceptible to being called down.