Worth while cointoss or -EV?

[overtly spruce]

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So if someone minraises back to you, you fold?

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This is one of the reasons why I have posted this question. Depending on how many people are in the pot I may fold, or if there are a number I may call a min raise.

[colson10]

As far as limping AXs, I think it's fine as long as your table is pretty passive preflop, and you're mainly doing it in LP after other limpers. Limping AXs in EP is questionable, and I don't think you have a good enough postflop game yet to make it profitable. The difficulty in playing AXs in EP is that when you flop an ace, you have to be able to know when it's good, and when you're outkicked. You're also not going to get as much value out of a flush draw. By this I mean, it's easier to play a flush draw aggressively in position and take it down on the flop, and if you don't take it down, then you can probably get a free turn card. I'm not suggesting to always play a flush draw aggressively, but there are many situations where it's correct.

So yeah, if you have position with the nut flush draw, and an opponent makes a bet that seems weak to you, and the others in front of you fold, maybe pop him for a raise and see what happens. He'll often fold, and when he doesn't you can assume he has a reasonable hand that is going to be difficult to get him to release. So then if he checks to you on the turn, and you didn't get there, take a free card and try and hit it on the river.

In the same situation if some others call his bet in front of you, now you probably just want to call, since your folding equity is going to be much less since now it appears that the flop has hit at least someone. It's always going to be tougher to bluff multiple opponents.

Min raising is almost never the correct move, in any situation. I suggest cutting that out of your game completely.

And playing flush draws on the turn aggressively is not such a good idea. The reason you want to play them aggressively on the flop as opposed to the turn is that your equity is significantly greater on the flop since you have two cards to make your hand compared to one. with the nut flush draw on the flop, you're hardly ever going to worse than 2:1 to win the hand by the river. That doesn't mean that you just want to shove as much money in on the flop, since you're still a dog, but you have enough equity that you can often play it aggressively and be okay with it if you don't take it down on the flop since you have all of your outs to fall back on.

You're not usually going to fold the nut flush draw on the flop, but it will correct much more often to fold on the turn. Lets say you just call the flop, now your opponent leads at you for a pot sized bet. You're getting 2:1 on the call when you're a 4:1 dog. Now you have to consider your implied odds as well, but you only have one more betting round to collect more from him. Not to mention that your money cards are going to be scare cards for him, meaning that you might make your hand and not get paid off at all.

And I may have misunderstood you, but limping in and folding to a min raise preflop is never correct. It's okay if you fold to a bigger raise, but with a min raise your immediate odds are too great to pass up.

colson10

[colson10]

I forgot to add that it's important be thinking about what your are trying to accomplish with your bets and raises, and not to just bet or raise cuz you have a pair, or a flush draw, etc. You should be thinking about it in terms of "I want to make him fold X range of hands so I'm going to bet Y amount" or "I think I have the best hand, so I'm going to bet this much since I think he'll call it with a worse hand", things like that. Every action you make should have a purpose in response to the information you've been given so far in the hand and the session.

colson10