Any cyclists?

[vulturesrow]

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Thanks for the replies all. The primary reason that I am interested in hybrid is basically the reason that sort of bike exists, I like to ride on the road and trail. However there arent many trails around here and I will be moving in about a year and a half to an area with lots of trails. So I considered buying a decent road bike now and then getting the mountain bike when I moved.

And to the gent that asked if I enjoyed jogging, the answer is an emphatic no. I enjoy staying in shape, but my knees are getting creakier every day so I need to get my aerobic fitness by some other means.

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One other thing I was thinking about. If you buy a hybrid or mtn bike and need to ride it on the road a lot, it'll get you there. Just not as fast as a road bike. On the other hand, if you have a road bike and decide to take a shortcut trail, it may be useless and not get you there. Skinny tires, moisture, and earth will render the bike useless.

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Im thinking that most of my riding here is going to be on the road, since I plan on riding to work using said bike. Thanks for the input, its starting to look like I should look into a decent road bike and go from there once I move back out to mountain country.

[edtost]

look up cyclocross stuff

edit: try this article

[Alobar]

Im not a big fan of the hybrid type bikes. You get more of the cons from the mountain and raod bikes, than you do the pros. They also dont really make any really good quality hybrids. Tho depending on how often you ride, that might not be an issue.

How many miles (or hours) a week are you planning to spend on the bike? From a couple of responses it said you were goign to use it to commute, but also wanted to ride trails? If that is indeed the case, and you only want one bike, you are better off with a mountain bike. As you can take a mountain bike on the road and the trails, but you wont ever get a road bike off of the pavement, and a hybrid wont hold up if you ever take it on anything more than gravel. You can also get street tires (slicks) for your mountain bike and it makes riding on the road just as fast as a hybrid. The bummer is if you wanna go off road, you have to switch tires.

Also, what kinda price range are you looking at?

[vulturesrow]

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Im not a big fan of the hybrid type bikes. You get more of the cons from the mountain and raod bikes, than you do the pros. They also dont really make any really good quality hybrids. Tho depending on how often you ride, that might not be an issue.

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That was what I was afraid of, hence the question. Im really not sure how many hours per week at this point but at a bare minimum to and from work each day, which is about a 10 miler each way. At this point, I am really leaning towards a road bike.

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Also, what kinda price range are you looking at?

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Under 1k unless that is a unrealistic expectation.

[Alobar]

I would definitely go the road bike route then. Should you decide you want to ride around on the trails when you move, you can always get a mountain bike.

You can definately get a quality entry level road bike for under a grand. Given that you are going to be putting in at least 20 miles a day, I would try and get something that had Shimano 105 components. Where do you live? I would go down to a local bike shop and tell them you are interested in getting a road bike and see what they have, have them tell you what size frame you need (this is done pretty easily by having you stand over a bike). Then I would check out ebay as you can find some pretty good deals on bikes there, and you can get a lot more bang for your buck on a used road bike. If you decide you want a new one, specialized, trek, and fuji make some decent cheaper entry level rides. Stay away from brands like cannondale, giant, and anything european (good bikes, just not high in the value department).

Also when you are looking at prices, dont forget to factor in what you are going to spend on accesories. If you are going to be commuting anywhere near dawn or dusk, a headlamp and a blinky is a MUST HAVE. Also all the little [censored] adds up, saddle bag (you need a way to carry your spare tube and patch kit), a frame pump (try and stay away from CO2 pumps), water bottle cages and water bottles, get a helmet, and a pair of those sexy ass lycra shorts. I would also recommend getting tire liners and tubes that have slime in them. Also a decent bike is going to have "clipless" pedals on it, so you are going to need a pair of shoes. It sounds like a lot, and it adds up, which is why its important to keep it in mind when deciding how much to spend on a bike so you dont go over your budget. But stuff like helmets and shoes vary in price. dont let anyone talk you into any of the expensive ones, when you are just starting out you arent going to know notice any perfomance gain, and a $30 helmet will protect your head just as a well as a $200 helmet (they both meet the exact same crash standards). And all the other stuff can be had pretty cheaply. You can even try haggle and if you buy a bike get them to throw in bottles and cages, or cut you a discount on your other purchases. Also check out performance, its a mail order place. They are usualy much cheaper on stuff than your Local bike shop

[vulturesrow]

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Where do you live?

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Virginia Beach. I dont live on the beach proper, so salt shouldnt be an issue.

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a pair of those sexy ass lycra shorts

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I dont plan on stopping with just one pair! [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

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would also recommend getting tire liners and tubes that have slime in them

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Im assuming this is some sort of fix a flat type stuff already in the tire?

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You can even try haggle and if you buy a bike get them to throw in bottles and cages, or cut you a discount on your other purchases.

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I thought I read somewhere that it isnt a good idea to haggle at the bike shop because they operate on a pretty thin margin. Any thoughts on that?


Thanks for the awesome feedback.

[Alobar]

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would also recommend getting tire liners and tubes that have slime in them

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Im assuming this is some sort of fix a flat type stuff already in the tire?

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exactly. Tire liners are also strips of plasic that line the tire (hence the name, heh) that help keep thorns and glass and [censored] from getting to the tube. Any new bike you buy is just going to have regular tubes in them and your potential to flat is high. Nothing sucks worse than standing on the side of the road changing a flat, especially if you are on your way to work.

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You can even try haggle and if you buy a bike get them to throw in bottles and cages, or cut you a discount on your other purchases.

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I thought I read somewhere that it isnt a good idea to haggle at the bike shop because they operate on a pretty thin margin. Any thoughts on that?


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I used to work in a bike shop, and yeah, there isnt a high markup, and haggling on the price of a bike wont usually get you anywhere, but you can get them to throw something cheap (like water bottles) in for free sometimes. And also any decent shop should give you some kind of discount (usually 10%) on your other purchases if you are buying a bike. One option thats availbe some places if you ask is that if you pay for the bike in cash they will knock off the 2% free they have to pay for you using a credit card

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At this point, I am really leaning towards a road bike.
Under 1k unless that is a unrealistic expectation.

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Think of a road bike like you would a race car. They are expensive and tricky. If you haven't done a lot of riding or ever ridden a "real" road bike, it might be more difficult than you think. Also, road bikes have to really fit you or you will be doing more harm than good to your body. If you end up with one, make sure someone there is qualified to setup the bike with you and don't skip this process! They should watch you ride, see your cadence, leg movement, distance to the bars, body position, cleat position, etc. and know how to adjust these things for you.

$1k is very optimistic for a road bike, even with 105 components. For everything, the minimum buy-in is probably closer to $2k when you include the bike, pedals, shoes, helmet, clothing, pump (fill tires to 100-110 psi), flat repair kit, etc. You could probably get cheapie stuff and get it down to $1500, but it would be tough.

As for a deal, just buy it at the end of the season and get last years model for any type of bike. Personally, I wouldn't like to commute on a road bike especially if I had to carry anything with me. They are just not designed for that kind of thing, and are really meant for speed.

[MrTrik]

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At this point, I am really leaning towards a road bike.
Under 1k unless that is a unrealistic expectation.

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Think of a road bike like you would a race car. They are expensive and tricky. If you haven't done a lot of riding or ever ridden a "real" road bike, it might be more difficult than you think. Also, road bikes have to really fit you or you will be doing more harm than good to your body. If you end up with one, make sure someone there is qualified to setup the bike with you and don't skip this process! They should watch you ride, see your cadence, leg movement, distance to the bars, body position, cleat position, etc. and know how to adjust these things for you.

$1k is very optimistic for a road bike, even with 105 components. For everything, the minimum buy-in is probably closer to $2k when you include the bike, pedals, shoes, helmet, clothing, pump (fill tires to 100-110 psi), flat repair kit, etc. You could probably get cheapie stuff and get it down to $1500, but it would be tough.

As for a deal, just buy it at the end of the season and get last years model for any type of bike. Personally, I wouldn't like to commute on a road bike especially if I had to carry anything with me. They are just not designed for that kind of thing, and are really meant for speed.

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Let's define road bike. It's a bike that is not suitable for off-road riding. This means it has very skinny high pressure tires. It has brakes and a seat. It has 10+ gears typically. It doesn't need to cost anywhere near $2K. It can however cost that much if you want higher end equipment. It's not rocket science. The shop will choose frame size by a very simple test which involves straddling the frame and making sure there is an inch or so between the frame and your nuts. Setup involves adjusting the seat hight and the handlebar hight. Not rocket science.

Yes if you are going to compete or take on a world class training regimine then things get technically complicated. But commuting to work or getting some exercise don't fall into that category.

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At this point, I am really leaning towards a road bike.
Under 1k unless that is a unrealistic expectation.

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Think of a road bike like you would a race car. They are expensive and tricky. If you haven't done a lot of riding or ever ridden a "real" road bike, it might be more difficult than you think. Also, road bikes have to really fit you or you will be doing more harm than good to your body. If you end up with one, make sure someone there is qualified to setup the bike with you and don't skip this process! They should watch you ride, see your cadence, leg movement, distance to the bars, body position, cleat position, etc. and know how to adjust these things for you.

$1k is very optimistic for a road bike, even with 105 components. For everything, the minimum buy-in is probably closer to $2k when you include the bike, pedals, shoes, helmet, clothing, pump (fill tires to 100-110 psi), flat repair kit, etc. You could probably get cheapie stuff and get it down to $1500, but it would be tough.

As for a deal, just buy it at the end of the season and get last years model for any type of bike. Personally, I wouldn't like to commute on a road bike especially if I had to carry anything with me. They are just not designed for that kind of thing, and are really meant for speed.

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Let's define road bike. It's a bike that is not suitable for off-road riding. This means it has very skinny high pressure tires. It has brakes and a seat. It has 10+ gears typically. It doesn't need to cost anywhere near $2K. It can however cost that much if you want higher end equipment. It's not rocket science. The shop will choose frame size by a very simple test which involves straddling the frame and making sure there is an inch or so between the frame and your nuts. Setup involves adjusting the seat hight and the handlebar hight. Not rocket science.

Yes if you are going to compete or take on a world class training regimine then things get technically complicated. But commuting to work or getting some exercise don't fall into that category.

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No, it's not rocket science but it is very different from a hybrid or mtn bike. It sounds like you have ridden those two, but not a road bike. I used to ride mtn bikes for years before switching to road bikes, and they are completely different from the other two. You are riding something that weighs around or less than 20 lbs, turning high revolutions on skinny tires with 110 psi in them and generally in an aerodynamic position on a saddle that is very small. This, in terms of riding, is very different than an upright hybrid and is a completely different type of riding occurs on each. Even entry level road bikes are around $1k, and most don't include pedals or the shoes that go with them.

And setup does depend on frame size, seat height and handlerbar height as you say, however different bodies fit better on certain frames and stems, saddles, etc. I don't care if you are riding to work or competing, these things matter on a road bike. Fractions of an inch can mean a big difference. And without the experience you will not know how to make the proper adjustments.