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#1
01-19-2005, 12:15 AM
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guidelines/faq - final draft - last chance to comment
just waiting for a response from mat before the guidelines becomes official.. so i'll just chuck it out there for some final comments and nitpicks. i decided to not include a sample hand post.. does anyone think a sample hand with reads should be included. i figured a lurker will find plenty of examples anyway.
-------------------------------- Microlimit Guidelines/FAQ version 1.0 Welcome to 2+2's Texas Holdem Micro Limit Forum. This guide's purpose is to provide newcomers with an introduction of what to expect in this forum as well as to answer some of the most frequently asked questions. If you are unsure whether this forum is the right place for you, take a look at the 2+2 forum list and read the descriptions. If you are looking for general help on how best to navigate 2+2, try the Beginner's Forum or the Internet Gambling Forum's FAQ. This guide is focused on micro limit texas holdem and is broken down into 4 sections: 1. Posting guidelines and etiquette. 2. Frequently Asked Questions (bankroll management, game selection, books/software, etc). 3. Poker Tracker stats. What are they and how can you use them. 4. Miscellaneous information and resources (starting hand charts, odds charts, etc). Please take the time to understand the materials here to allow the micro forum to maintain more interesting and focused content. ------------------------ 1. Posting guidelines and etiquette. The micro limit forum is meant for the discussion of micro limit texas holdem and issues that are relevant to beginning and microlimit players. Some topics may seem like a micro limit question, but may actually be best asked in one of the other forums on this site, such as General Holdem, Probability, Internet Gambling, etc. Micro limits refer to holdem limit games with stakes less than $2/$4, but this forum also functions as the de facto limit holdem beginner forum. Before posting, you are strongly encouraged to fully explore the search function. If you have a general question, it likely has been asked and answered already. The majority of posts in this forum are hand posts, where the poster had questions about their play in a specific hand. By lurking for a bit, you'll quickly observe the common structure of a hand post. A quick summary is to: <ul type="square">[*] be readable: Make use of bison's hand converter when possible or manually edit your hand into a similar format. It is also recommended that you post only 1 hand per topic. [*] provide context: Recreate the hand by providing all relevant information (reads, pot size, action, your thoughts, etc) you had at the time. Often this means you should stop the action at your decision point. Since you did not know what would happen after your decision, neither should anyone else. [*] be unbiased: If you ask "When should I have folded this hand?", you'll probably get biased responses since you have revealed that you probably lost the hand. The results generally do not matter and should not be provided in the first post. If you played the hand correctly, the results will eventually take care of themselves. Provide the results when the hand's discussion has reached its conclusion to provide closure for those who helped you out.[/list]Informal rules of this forum try to limit the number of hand posts by a user at one time.. often at 2. By posting more than than 2 topics at once, you are pushing other posters' topics off of the first page. If you are posting a topic with low content, perhaps showing off your first royal flush, please include an informative notice such as "(low content)" in your topic title. For more on hand post content and posting etiquette, please refer to the Small Stakes forum's Posting Guidelines (section 4 at the time of this writing). ------------------------ 2. Frequently Asked Questions. What are the abbreviations for the player seats? In a 10 player game, you play against UTG, UTG+1, UTG+2, MP1, MP2, MP3, CO, Button, SB, and BB. UTG is under the gun, the first to act preflop.. MP stands for middle position. EMP refers to early middle position (MP1 in this 10 handed example) and LMP refers to late middle position (MP3 in this 10 handed example). The CO is the "cut-off" and acts just before the button. SB and BB are the small and big blinds respectively. The UTG through UTG+2 seats are also referred to as early position (EP) while CO and Button (sometimes called BT) are in late position (rarely noted as LP.. not to be confused with loose-passive). What books are recommended for a beginner/micro player? The most recommended books for a beginning player are Winning Low Limit Holdem (WLLH) by Lee Jones and Internet Texas Holdem (ITH) by Matthew Hilger. These books (you often need just one of these) introduce you to a basic tight aggressive style, building a foundation to allow your game to be taken to the next level. Your introductory book should often be followed up with more advanced materials such as Small Stakes Holdem (SSH) by Ed Miller, et al, Theory of Poker (TOP) by David Sklansky, and Holdem for Advanced Players (HPFAP) by David Sklansky, Mason Malmuth. For more information on these materials, check out the Books/Software forum or Mason's book review thread provided below. What is an appropriate bankroll for the stake X/Y? Poker is not a game of predictable expectations. A winning player will have their losing days, weeks, and sometimes months. Your bankroll must be sufficiently large to survive these wild rides. A bankroll of 300 Big Bets is the standard recommendation. If you are playing $1/$2, you should have $600 available in your bankroll. If this bankroll cannot be replenished, then you should often have more than 300 BB's available for your current stake. You can certainly take shots at a limit with less than 300 BB's, but be prepared to drop down if you hit a downswing. If you are playing 6-max tables, you will need an even larger bankroll to survive the higher variance. How do you pick a table? Table selection is very important as you begin to move beyond the lower levels of the micro limits. As you move up, your opponents will take on more defined styles (loose-passive, tight-aggressive, maniac, rock, etc). In general, you want tight opponents to your left and loose opponents to your right. This allows you to gauge more accurately how many players will see the flop and lets you have position on those players who are playing the most hands. Also, your preflop (PF) raises will be more likely to buy the button and blinds. Each site provides different information on the table selection list, so you may want to peruse the Internet Gambling forum for site specific recommendations. % seeing flop and average pot size are often the most used stats as well as player specific notes. How do I deal with all these loose players sucking out on me with terrible hands? A common complaint is that the players are so bad that it actually prevents you from making money. New players often feel that if they could just go to a game where opponents "played more reasonable hands", "respected my raises", and "didn't chase all the way to the river" they would make more money. This whole notion (to quote SSH) is absurd. Poker is a game where you profit from the mistakes of your opponents. If your opponents make more mistakes you will make more money. Loose, passive limit holdem games are highly profitable for this reason. It is as simple as that. Focus on winning the most money, not the most pots. How do I deal with maniacs? In general you will have to tighten up preflop when a maniac is at your table. His raises begin to kill your implied odds for your drawing type hands. If you are sitting to the left of a maniac, you will often be 3-betting his PF raises to try to isolate him with your better hands. If the table does not allow you to isolate the maniac either preflop or postflop (they are too loose or know what you are doing), you'll want to sit on the maniac's right. Since the maniac is often putting the last bet/raise in each round, the seat to his right is often closing the action on each betting round. This allows you to see everyone else act before you do, giving you more information and allowing you to make better choices. You will still need to play tight PF since the maniac will often be auto-raising behind you. When should I move up in limits? Microlimit "graduates" often follow a similar path. Some start at various nanolimits (.05/.10 and below) and build a bankroll large enough to handle the .25/.50 or .50/1.00 stakes. These are the first limits where it is truly worth taking your time and learning how to beat a loose-passive game. Often players stay at this level for at least 10K hands to build a baseline for their pokertracker stats. Once they have fixed their largest leaks, moving up is very player dependent. In general, you can move up when you feel confident in your skills at your current level and have a bankroll suitable for the next level. There is never any shame in dropping back down to retool your game. What other terms should I know? HU - heads-up MHIG - my hand is good MHING - my hand is no good LA/LAG - loose aggressive LP - loose passive OESD - open-ended straight draw (example: you hold JT and the board is 982) OOP - out of position PT - poker tracker TA/TAG - tight aggressive TP - tight passive TPTK - top pair, top kicker (example: you hold AK and the board is A72) TP2K/TP3K/etc - top pair, second/third/etc kicker (example: you hold AQ/AJ/etc and the board is A72) UI - unimproved ------------------------ 3. Poker Tracker Poker Tracker is a great tool for managing your hand histories, evaluating your play, and managing your notes on other players. This section will focus on discussing typical stats of a 2+2 micro limit player. If you have general questions about the tool, try searching the Books/Software forum or the forums at Poker Tracker's home site. It is very important to understand that stats are sometimes cause and often effect.. effect of the cards that are dealt, effect of your table selection, and effect of your reads and opponents actions. Stats can help identify major leaks, but more often than not, if you are inside the "expected" range, you will find more value in posting hands rather than wading through your pokertracker stats with a fine toothed comb. Playing many hands is very important before you begin to analyze any of the following stats. Some stats begin to converge fairly quickly (VPIP may be somewhat representative after 1000 hands) while other stats take a very long time to be meaningful (50K - 100K minimum to begin to look at your winrate). Often your style has changed by the time a stat converges to a meaningful number. If you feel as though you must post a Poker Tracker stat post, it is strongly recommended that you have at least a 10K hand sample size. Until you reach 10K hands, your stats will often vary too much to put much weight on them. Use the following guide to track your progress and stat fluctuations relative to the typical ranges of these stats. The following ranges are provided for 10 player ring games at the micro level, but will remain fairly consistent as you move up. VPIP: voluntarily put $ in pot (%). There is no sweet spot for this number, but the typical range is between 15 and 20. A few posters manage with sub-15 VPIP's and a few posters manage with VPIP's in the low 20's. As you move up, this number will often drop a point or two. Your VPIP will not be uniform across all positions. You should generally be tighter in EP than in LP. PFR: preflop raise (%). The typical range is 8-10. A few posters exceed 10, but many posters begin their first 10K hands at or below 8. Some suggest that PFR should be half your VPIP, but that's an effectual coincidence and should not be your goal. If you only have a VPIP of 14 or 15, you will still often have the same PFR of 8-9 as someone with a higher VPIP. Your PFR will often be higher in LP than in EP. VPIP from SB: typical range 30-38. This stat varies greatly by your table selection. If you typically play at passive games, you can expect this to be on the higher end. If you are in aggressive games, it will be lower. If its much lower than 30, you are missing out on a few profitable situations for the half-price. If its much higher than 40, you are probably playing too much and underestimating the difficulties of playing out of position postflop. Consult a starting hand chart for more information. Saw flop all hands: This is an effect stat of your VPIP's and your table selection. It is often about 5% higher than your VPIP. Discussion at 2+2 primarily involves the VPIP stat rather than this one. Steal defense: At the micro limits, this situation occurs very rarely and you will generally not have a significant sample size even after playing 20K hands. It is much better to focus on specific hands for defending situations as its often highly opponent dependent. Attempt to steal: This situation occurs a bit more frequently than steal defense, but still it will not be too common until you hit the higher end of the micro limits. This number will often be in the mid-upper 30's, but will vary depending on your table selection and overall aggressiveness. WSD: went to showdown. This number typical falls into the 28-32 range, but varies by your style. It is helpful in identifying potentially major leaks and too high a number often represents overly loose play on the big streets. Too low a number often represents a "fit or fold" mentality where you give up on too many profitable situations by ignoring the pot size. WSF: won $ when saw flop. By coincidence, this number also falls into the 28-32 range. It is mostly an effect stat. If it is very high (35+) you may be running well. A number below 28 may indicate a problem with protecting your vulnerable hands or folding too many winners. Like many stats, a specific number does not indicate a specific problem, only that there may be one and you should be posting hands where you had difficult postflop decisions. W$SD: won $ at showdown. Varies between 50-58. Below 50 often indicates that you are seeing too many showdowns while a number which is too high may indicate that you are folding too many winners. In limit holdem, a pot is often quite large on the end, thus you often need to be quite sure that you don't have the best hand to make folding on the end correct. FRB: folded to river bet. Varies between 40-55. This stat is pointless to analyze by itself. In combination with WSD or W$SD, it may indicate a problem of folding too much on the end (or not enough). As long as its not incredibly low or high, there are better ways to spend your time. AF: aggression factor. This is an arbitrary number representing the relative frequency of which you are the aggressor on each street. The numbers vary greatly by your style and posting specific hands is generally better to determine if your aggressiveness is appropriate. VPIP/PFR account for your preflop aggression, so generally ignore AF - PF. Your postflop aggression will typically be around 2 - 3 on each postflop street. The flop is often higher than the turn and river, often exceeding 3.0. A micro posters overall AF (not including PF) will typically be in the 2.0 - 3.0 range. Some posters report success with overall AF's over 3, but nearly none have AF's under 2. This is not a stat worth overanalyzing unless it is woefully low or maniacally high. when folds (%): This is not a stat worth overanalyzing as its speaks nothing of the appropriateness of your actions. Typical numbers may look something like this, but the range of "appropriate" numbers could be quite wide. (no fold: 12 _ PF: 75 _ flop: 8 _ turn: 3 _ river: 2). check-raises: This is often in the 1% to 2% range of all possible actions. It is not worth analyzing this stat to decide if you are "check raising enough". Post hands to do that. Win-rate: The number everyone is concerned about and the number we can do nothing about. Be happy with anything above 0 BB / 100 hands. The measure used is big bets per 100 hands. This accounts for multi-tabling and limit differences whereas $/hr gives you no real indication of success. Don't fret with something below 0 BB/100 if you have a small sample size. Variance and downswings happen and they can be quite large (200+ BB losses) and extend over a long period of time (10K+ hands). Your winrate will decrease as you move up in limits. Since its asked all the time, a 3 BB/100 winrate at .50/1.00 (online) is often regarded as great. 6 BB/100 is probably unsustainable. Once you reach 2/4 (online), 2 BB/100 is great for the long term and 4 BB/100 may be unsustainable. Also, you will be a loser from the blinds. The blind commitment is too great to overcome by solid play. Standard Deviation / 100: This varies by your style, but 14-18 seems to be the typical range. Summary: Remember, these stats speak nothing of the appropriateness of your actions, but primarily indicate the frequency of your actions (VPIP, PFR, etc). The 2+2 'style' generally leads towards a happy range for most of these numbers, but having good stats and good results are very different things. Stats are useful in identifying the existence of major leaks, but often leave you in a guessing game in determining where those leaks may reside. You will have to post hands or read materials to fix your leaks. ------------------------ 4. Miscellaneous Links and resources: <ul type="square">[*]Pre-flop starting hand guide. Excel and PDF versions are provided within this topic.[*]odds chart.[*]bison's Notes on Notes. Details a popular method of auto-rating players in poker tracker and introduces readers to the preflop-postflop classification of players. (example: LP-P is a loose passive preflop, passive postflop player)[*]Mason's book reviews.[*]Homer's confidence interval calculations for winrates.[*]Homer's building a bankroll for newbies.[*]Ed's Crushing LLH post.[*]Ed's "biggest leak" post.[*]An active collection of favorite threads.[*]Pokerroom EV stats. This site is often useful in determining the relative value of one hand versus another. Note that the stats are an average of ALL players.. not just the good ones.[*]twodimes provides a useful poker odds, pot equity calculator (pokenum).[*]Poker Stove and Poker Calculator are offline versions of odds/equity calculators.[/list] ------------------------ This guide is a work in progress. Comments and recommendations are welcome and may be posted here. 
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#2
01-19-2005, 12:38 AM
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Re: guidelines/faq - final draft - last chance to comment
odds chart
I kinda like this odds chart better, it's a little more comprehensive and was put together by 2+2's own Lost Wages. not a big deal though... and maybe you should post a sample hand as a response to this post to kinda separate it
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#6
01-19-2005, 12:46 AM
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Re: guidelines/faq - final draft - last chance to comment
[ QUOTE ]
Yo spider you are an asset to 2+2. Thank you very much for your dedication Steve [/ QUOTE ] don't thank me. thank the job which doesn't keep me busy enough 40 hours a week [img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]
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#7
01-19-2005, 12:46 AM
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Re: guidelines/faq - final draft - last chance to comment
Edited for grammar and style. Some of it may be off, I'm exhausted.
[ QUOTE ] Microlimit Guidelines/FAQ version 1.0 Welcome to 2+2's Texas Holdem Micro Limit Forum. This guide's purpose is to provide newcomers with an introduction of what to expect in this forum as well as to answer some of the most frequently asked questions. If you are unsure whether this forum is the right place for you, take a look at the 2+2 forum list and read the descriptions. If you are looking for general help the how best to navigate 2+2, try the Beginner's Forum or the Internet Gambling Forum's FAQ. This guide is focused on micro limit Texas Holdem and is broken down into four sections: 1. Posting guidelines and etiquette. 2. Frequently Asked Questions (bankroll management, game selection, books/software, etc). 3. Poker Tracker stats. What are they and how can you use them. 4. Miscellaneous information and resources (starting hand charts, odds charts, etc). Please take the time to understand the materials here to allow the micro forum to maintain more interesting and focused content. ------------------------ 1. Posting guidelines and etiquette. The micro limit forum is meant for the discussion of micro limit Texas Holdem and issues that are relevant to beginning and microlimit players. Some topics may seem like a micro limit question, but may actually be best asked in the other forums on this site, such as General Holdem, Probability, Internet Gambling, etc. Micro limits refer to Holdem limit games with stakes less than $2/$4, but this forum also functions as the de facto limit Holdem beginner forum. Before posting, you are strongly encouraged to explore fully the search function. If you have a general question, it likely has been asked and answered already. Most posts in this forum are hand posts, where the poster had questions about their play in a specific hand. By lurking for a bit, you will quickly observe the common structure of a hand post. A quick summary is to: * be readable: Make use of bison's hand converter when possible or manually edit your hand into a similar format. It is also recommended that you post only one hand per topic. * provide context: Recreate the hand by providing all relevant information (reads, pot size, action, your thoughts, etc) you had at the time. Often this means you should stop the action at your decision point. Since you did not know what would happen after your decision, neither should anyone else. * be unbiased: If you ask "When should I have folded this hand?", you will probably get biased responses since you have revealed that you probably lost the hand. The results generally do not matter and should not be provided in the first post. If you played the hand correctly, the results will eventually take care of themselves. Provide the results when the hand's discussion has reached its conclusion to provide closure for those who helped you out. Informal rules of this forum try to limit the number of hand posts by an user at one time. Often at 2. By posting more than two topics at once, you are pushing other posters' topics off the first page. If you are posting a topic with low content, perhaps showing off your first royal flush, please include an informative notice such as "(low content)" in your topic title. For more on hand post content and posting etiquette, please refer to the Small Stakes forum's Posting Guidelines (section four at the time of this writing). ------------------------ 2. Frequently Asked Questions. What are the abbreviations for the player seats? In a ten player game, you play against UTG, UTG+1, UTG+2, MP1, MP2, MP3, CO, Button, SB, and BB. UTG is under the gun, the first to act preflop. MP stands for middle position. EMP refers to early middle position (MP1 in this ten handed example) and LMP refers to late middle position (MP3 in this ten handed example). The CO is the "cut-off" and acts just before the button. SB and BB are the small and big blinds respectively. The UTG through UTG+2 seats are also called early position (EP) while CO and Button (sometimes called BT) are in late position (rarely noted as LP-- not to be confused with loose-passive). What books are recommended for a beginner/micro player? The most recommended books for a beginning player are Winning Low Limit Holdem (WLLH) by Lee Jones and Internet Texas Holdem (ITH) by Matthew Hilger. These books (you often need just one of these) introduce you to a basic tight aggressive style, building a foundation to allow your game to be taken to the next level. Your introductory book should often be followed up with more advanced materials such as Small Stakes Holdem (SSH) by Ed Miller, et al, Theory of Poker (TOP) by David Sklansky, and Holdem for Advanced Players (HPFAP) by David Sklansky, Mason Malmuth. For more information on these materials, check out the Books/Software forum or Mason's book review thread provided below. What is an appropriate bankroll for the stake X/Y? Poker is not a game of predictable expectations. A winning player will have their losing days, weeks, and sometimes months. Your bankroll must be sufficiently large to survive these wild rides. A bankroll of 300 Big Bets is the standard recommendation. If you are playing $1/$2, you should have $600 available in your bankroll. If this bankroll cannot be replenished, then you should often have more than 300 BB's available for your current stake. You can certainly take shots at a limit with less than 300 BB's, but be prepared to drop down if you hit a downswing. If you are playing 6-max tables, you will need an even larger bankroll to survive the higher variance. How do you pick a table? Table selection is very important as you begin to move beyond the lower levels of the micro limits. As you move up, your opponents will take on more defined styles (loose-passive, tight-aggressive, maniac, rock, etc). In general, you want tight opponents to your left and loose opponents to your right. This allows you to gauge more accurately how many players will see the flop and lets you have position on those players who are playing the most hands. Also, your preflop (PF) raises will be more likely to buy the button and blinds. Each site provides different information on the table selection list, so you may want to peruse the Internet Gambling forum for site specific recommendations. % seeing flop and average pot size are often the most used stats as well as player specific notes. How do I deal with all these loose players sucking out on me with terrible hands? A common complaint is that the players are so bad that it actually prevents you from making money. New players often think that if they could just go to a game where opponents "played more reasonable hands", "respected my raises", and "didn't chase all the way to the river" they would make more money. This whole notion (to quote SSH) is absurd. Poker is a game where you profit from the mistakes of your opponents. If your opponents make more mistakes you will make more money. Therefore, loose, passive limit Holdem games are highly profitable. It is as simple as that. Focus on winning the most money, not the most pots. How do I deal with maniacs? In general you will have to tighten up preflop when a maniac is at your table. His raises begin to kill your implied odds for your drawing type hands. If you are sitting to the left of a maniac, you will often be 3-betting his PF raises to try to isolate him with your better hands. If the table does not allow you to isolate the maniac either preflop or postflop (they are too loose or know what you are doing), you will want to sit on the maniac's right. Since the maniac is often putting the last bet/raise in each round, the seat to his right is often closing the action on each betting round. This allows you to see everyone else act before you do, giving you more information and allowing you to make better choices. You will still need to play tight PF since the maniac will often be auto-raising behind you. When should I move up in limits? Microlimit "graduates" often follow a similar path. Some start at various nanolimits (.05/.10 and below) and build a bankroll large enough to handle the .25/.50 or .50/1.00 stakes. These are the first limits where it is truly worth taking your time and learning how to beat a loose-passive game. Often players stay at this level for at least 10K hands to build a baseline for their PokerTracker stats. Once they have fixed their largest leaks, moving up is very player dependent. In general, you can move up when you feel confident in your skills at your current level and have a bankroll suitable for the next level. There is never any shame in dropping back down to retool your game. What other terms should I know? HU - heads-up MHIG - my hand is good MHING - my hand is no good LA/LAG - loose aggressive LP - loose passive OESD - open-ended straight draw (example: you hold JT and the board is 982) OOP - out of position PT - poker tracker TA/TAG - tight aggressive TP - tight passive TPTK - top pair, top kicker (example: you hold AK and the board is A72) TP2K/TP3K/etc - top pair, second/third/etc kicker (example: you hold AQ/AJ/etc and the board is A72) UI - unimproved ------------------------ 3. Poker Tracker Poker Tracker is a great tool for managing your hand histories, evaluating your play, and managing your notes on other players. This section will focus on discussing typical stats of a 2+2 micro limit player. If you have general questions about the tool, try searching the Books/Software forum or the forums at Poker Tracker's home site. It is very important to understand that stats are sometimes cause and often effect-- effect of the cards that are dealt, effect of your table selection, and effect of your reads and opponents actions. Stats can help identify major leaks, but more often than not, if you are inside the "expected" range, you will find more value in posting hands rather than wading through your PokerTracker stats with a fine toothed comb. Playing many hands is very important before you begin to analyze any of the following stats. Some stats begin to converge fairly quickly (VPIP may be somewhat representative after 1000 hands) while other stats take a very long time to be significant (50K - 100K minimum to begin to look at your winrate). Often your style has changed by the time a stat converges to a significant number. If you feel as though you must post a Poker Tracker stat post, it is strongly recommended that you have at least a 10K hand sample size. Until you reach 10K hands, your stats will often vary too much to put much weight on them. Use the following guide to track your progress and stat fluctuations relative to the typical ranges of these stats. The following ranges are provided for ten player ring games at the micro level, but will remain fairly consistent as you move up. VPIP: voluntarily put $ in pot (%). There is no sweet spot for this number, but the typical range is between 15 and 20. A few posters manage with sub-15 VPIP's and a few posters manage with VPIP's in the low 20's. As you move up, this number will often drop a point or two. Your VPIP will not be uniform across all positions. You should generally be tighter in EP than in LP. PFR: preflop raise (%). The typical range is 8-10. A few posters exceed 10, but many posters begin their first 10K hands at or below 8. Some suggest that PFR should be half your VPIP, but that is an effectual coincidence and should not be your goal. If you only have a VPIP of 14 or 15, you will still often have the same PFR of 8-9 as someone with a higher VPIP. Your PFR will often be higher in LP than in EP. VPIP from SB: typical range 30-38. This stat varies greatly by your table selection. If you typically play at passive games, you can expect this to be on the higher end. If you are in aggressive games, it will be lower. If its much lower than 30, you are missing a few profitable situations for the half-price. If its much higher than 40, you are probably playing too much and underestimating the difficulties of playing out of position postflop. Consult a starting hand chart for more information. Saw flop all hands: This is an effect stat of your VPIP's and your table selection. It is often about 5% higher than your VPIP. Discussion at 2+2 primarily involves the VPIP stat rather than this one. Steal defense: At the micro limits, this situation occurs very rarely and you will generally not have a significant sample size, even after playing 20K hands. It is much better to focus on specific hands for defending situations as its often highly opponent dependent. Attempt to steal: This situation occurs a bit more frequently than steal defense, but still it will not be too common until you hit the higher end of the micro limits. This number will often be in the mid-upper 30's, but will vary depending on your table selection and overall aggressiveness. WSD: went to showdown. This number typical falls into the 28-32 range, but varies by your style. It is helpful in identifying potentially major leaks and too high a number often represents overly loose play on the big streets. Too low a number often represents a "fit or fold" mentality where you give up on too many profitable situations by ignoring the pot size. WSF: won $ when saw flop. By coincidence, this number also falls into the 28-32 range. It is mostly an effect stat. If it is very high (35+) you may be running well. A number below 28 may show a problem with protecting your vulnerable hands or folding too many winners. Like many stats, a specific number does not show a specific problem, only that there may be one and you should be posting hands where you had difficult postflop decisions. W$SD: won $ at showdown. Varies between 50-58. Below 50 often shows that you see too many showdowns while a number which is too high may show that you are folding too many winners. In limit Holdem, a pot is often quite large on the end, thus you often need to be quite sure that you do not have the best hand to make folding on the end correct. FRB: folded to river bet. Varies between 40-55. This stat is pointless to analyze by itself. In combination with WSD or W$SD, it may show a problem of folding too much on the end (or not enough). As long as it's not incredibly low or high, there are better ways to spend your time. AF: aggression factor. This is an arbitrary number representing the relative frequency of which you are the aggressor on each street. The numbers vary greatly by your style and posting specific hands is generally better to determine if your aggressiveness is appropriate. VPIP/PFR account for your preflop aggression, so generally ignore AF - PF. Your postflop aggression will typically be around two - three on each postflop street. The flop is often higher than the turn and river, often exceeding 3.0. A micro posters overall AF (not including PF) will typically be in the 2.0 - 3.0 range. Some posters report success with overall AF's over 3, but nearly none have AF's under 2. This is not a stat worth over analyzing unless it is woefully low or maniacally high. When folds (%): This is not a stat worth over analyzing as its speaks nothing of the appropriateness of your actions. Typical numbers may look something like this, but the range of "appropriate" numbers could be quite wide. (no fold: 12 _ PF: 75 _ flop: 8 _ turn: 3 _ river: 2). check-raises: This is often in the 1% to 2% range of all possible actions. It is not worth analyzing this stat to decide if you are "check raising enough." Post hands to do that. Win-rate: The number everyone is concerned about and the number we can do nothing about. Be happy with anything above 0 BB / 100 hands. The measure used is big bets per 100 hands. This accounts for multi-tabling and limit differences whereas $/hr gives you no real indication of success. Do not fret with something below 0 BB/100 if you have a small sample size. Variance and downswings happen and they can be quite large (200+ BB losses) and extend over a long period of time (10K+ hands). Your winrate will decrease as you move up in limits. Since its asked all the time, a 3 BB/100 winrate at .50/1.00 (online) is often regarded as great. 6 BB/100 is probably unsustainable. Once you reach 2/4 (online), 2 BB/100 is great for the long term and 4 BB/100 may be unsustainable. Also, you will be a loser from the blinds. The blind commitment is too great to overcome by solid play. Standard Deviation / 100: This varies by your style, but 14-18 seems to be the typical range. Summary: Remember, these stats speak nothing of the appropriateness of your actions, but primarily show the frequency of your actions (VPIP, PFR, etc). The 2+2 'style' generally leads towards a happy range for most of these numbers, but having good stats and good results are very different things. Stats are useful in identifying the existence of major leaks, but often leave you in a guessing game in determining where those leaks may reside. You will have to post hands or read materials to fix your leaks. ------------------------ 4. Miscellaneous Links and resources: * Pre-flop starting hand guide. Excel and PDF versions are provided within this topic. * odds chart. * bison's Notes on Notes. Details a popular method of auto-rating players in poker tracker and introduces readers to the preflop-postflop classification of players. (example: LP-P is a loose passive preflop, passive postflop player) * Mason's book reviews. * Homer's confidence interval calculations for winrates. * Homer's building a bankroll for newbies. * Ed's Crushing LLH post. * Ed's "biggest leak" post. * An active collection of favorite threads. * Pokerroom EV stats. This site is often useful in determining the relative value of one hand versus another. Note that the stats are an average of ALL players.. not just the good ones. * twodimes provides a useful poker odds, pot equity calculator (pokenum). * Poker Stove and Poker Calculator are offline versions of odds/equity calculators. ------------------------ [/ QUOTE ]
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#9
01-19-2005, 03:59 PM
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Re: guidelines/faq - final draft - last chance to comment
Sorry, I haven't really been around.
What about including more questions about general strategy? - What are pot odds? - What is pot equity? - What are implied odds and reverse implied odds? - What is fold equity? - How do I know if I should bet/raise, call or fold?
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#10
01-19-2005, 04:03 PM
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Re: guidelines/faq - final draft - last chance to comment
i nearly included a sample hand for sample hand purposes and to answer a pot odds question.. but that just seemed like it would open the door for a whole new section. i drew the line at that arbitrary point. maybe version 1.1 should include more of that stuff in a new section. i found those answers difficult to answer succinctly and accurately.
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