Rebuy tourn's with "Every hand pusher who has the 100K bankroll"

[VinnyTheFish]

I’ve gone back to Stars about 2 weeks ago, for the sole purpose of playing tournaments.

I have been in the following situation a few times the past 2 weeks, and I am still perplexed on how I conduct myself and/or the strategy I should take.

A extremely aggressive player goes all in, almost every time, no matter what. They do so until they have accumulated a nice amount.

I completely understand the logic, but I was just wondering how you guys handle the situation.

2nd – if you are going to call or push to this person, where do you limit yourself? Where do you limit yourself, assuming this will be head’s up and forgetting about position.

I was looking at the numbers at
Poker Stove

see: equity vs. random pusher & pushing vs. random caller & pushing vs. random caller


This also got me thinking: sklansky's article from 2+2 mag

[SumZero]

If he really pushes every hand and you expect not to get over callers very often then the sb-push article suggests you should call with 22+, A2+, K2+, Q5+, J7+, T8+. In actuality if I have to worry about overcalls and what not I might tighten up a little, maybe 22+, A2+, K5+, Q7+, J8+. This assumes I have a bankroll where I can afford to rebuy when needed, if not I may wait for A9+, 55+ knowning that with him going all-in every time I can bide my time (passing up small +EV for later bigger +EV).

[VinnyTheFish]

[ QUOTE ]
This assumes I have a bankroll where I can afford to rebuy when needed

[/ QUOTE ]

Let's assume that we are in the $10 rebuy, but the most you "want" to spend if $51 (buy in $11, auto add-on $10, allowed 1 time rebuy & add-on and the break add-on $10) Given that will spend up to $91.

[schwza]

[ QUOTE ]
Where do you limit yourself, assuming this will be head’s up and forgetting about position.


[/ QUOTE ]

so do you mean if the pusher open-pushes and it's folded to you in the BB? then i call with a pretty wide range. if he's really pushing 80% of his hands, i'm happy to call with Ax, K6, QJ, 55+. i get much tighter if there are people left to act, either behind me or limpers. remember that everyone will be dying to limp-reraise this guy.

also remember that overcallers will be much more common. if a super-aggro pusher opens for 1500 in EP with blinds 10/20 and gets called by the CO, i'll probably call in the BB with hands as bad as AJ, 99, and maybe worse if the CO is bad/loose.

[VinnyTheFish]

gotcha. These are the basic rules that I follow - but Sunday night, I found myslef losing every race i.e. I had won 2 out of 8 at showdown. The 2 wins were under 500 chips each. This means that I had to rebuy 6 times.

[VinnyTheFish]

[ QUOTE ]
a super-aggro pusher

[/ QUOTE ]

keep in mind that super-aggro has won say "over 100K" this year in tourn's and final tabled say 8-10% of his/her tourn's.

[schwza]

[ QUOTE ]
gotcha. These are the basic rules that I follow - but Sunday night, I found myslef losing every race i.e. I had won 2 out of 8 at showdown. The 2 wins were under 500 chips each. This means that I had to rebuy 6 times.

[/ QUOTE ]

that happens. luck sucks sometimes. but you're giving up EV if you have to pass on +EV spots because you're worried about your bankroll. consider playing smaller if you think it's hurting your results or your enjoyment.

[VinnyTheFish]

[ QUOTE ]
consider playing smaller if you think it's hurting your results or your enjoyment.

[/ QUOTE ]

The "wasting" money idea hurts. I guess the "Blitz" attack is a great way to build chips, it is just not my idea of fun. I think I am just trying to develop a plan and understanding of that concept.

If the people doing it do so, because they have the bankroll, I understand, but if they are doing it because it is the best way, well, then I'd like to hear what they have to say.

[ZBTHorton]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
This assumes I have a bankroll where I can afford to rebuy when needed

[/ QUOTE ]

Let's assume that we are in the $10 rebuy, but the most you "want" to spend if $51 (buy in $11, auto add-on $10, allowed 1 time rebuy & add-on and the break add-on $10) Given that will spend up to $91.

[/ QUOTE ]

This is the most important sentence in this thread. Don't expect to go deep in the 11R if all you are comfortable spending is 51$. Can you go deep spending 31$? Yes. But you have to be willing to gamble it up during the rebuy period.

[schwza]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
consider playing smaller if you think it's hurting your results or your enjoyment.

[/ QUOTE ]

The "wasting" money idea hurts. I guess the "Blitz" attack is a great way to build chips, it is just not my idea of fun. I think I am just trying to develop a plan and understanding of that concept.

If the people doing it do so, because they have the bankroll, I understand, but if they are doing it because it is the best way, well, then I'd like to hear what they have to say.

[/ QUOTE ]

don't get me wrong - it's not that i think this "blitz" is a good idea. far from it. it's just that you want to be in a position where you can take advantage fully of his poor play, and if you're worried about the money you might be squeezing all of the value out of his stupid pushes.

for example, it's extremely profitable to call a blitzer's push with AT, and it's very profitable to call with A7, so if you're only calling with AT cause you don't want the gamble, then you give up a little edge.

there was a good thread about this that included gavin griffen (2005) saying something like this - that it's more profitable to wait for a good hand and pick off the crazies than to be one of the crazies yourself.