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  #31  
Old 07-08-2003, 05:25 PM
paoneaj paoneaj is offline
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Location: AZ, USA
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Default Re: Loose Game Strategy Adjustments

You're exactly right. I have been trying to make this same argument but I must be saying it the wrong way.
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  #32  
Old 07-09-2003, 02:45 AM
HammerinHank HammerinHank is offline
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Default I\'ll try

At the risk of embarrassing myself further, here goes. Big pairs are great against big fields as long as the board doesn't get too scary and/or you have to put someone on a bigger hand. My "problem" isn't a problem, it's good that all the knuckle heads are capping because that's more money theat I have the best chance to win.

I just can't make the connection to the other point (trying to play the weaker hands cheaply and ending up faces with raises behind me from blinds) other than the obvious point that I shouldn't loosen up because I'm unlikely to get in cheep, or that I should only do it from the BB.

I know from reading your posts that you would rather, as the old story goes, teach someone to fish than give them the fish. I'm just not getting the big picture.
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  #33  
Old 07-09-2003, 02:49 AM
HammerinHank HammerinHank is offline
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Default This should have been above *NM*

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  #34  
Old 07-09-2003, 02:52 AM
HammerinHank HammerinHank is offline
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Default Re: Loose Game Strategy Adjustments

At the risk of embarrassing myself further, here goes. Big pairs are great against big fields as long as the board doesn't get too scary and/or you have to put someone on a bigger hand. My "problem" isn't a problem, it's good that all the knuckle heads are capping because that's more money that I have the best chance to win.

I just can't make the connection to the other point (trying to play the weaker hands cheaply and ending up faces with raises behind me from blinds) other than the obvious point that I shouldn't loosen up because I'm unlikely to get in cheep.

I know from reading your posts that you would rather, as the old story goes, teach someone to fish than give them the fish. I'm just not getting the big picture.
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  #35  
Old 07-09-2003, 04:43 AM
SwordFish SwordFish is offline
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Default Re: I\'ll try

Hank -

You seem to be answering your own question...play these hands if you can get in cheap. Usually you want to play these hands from late position when you can limp in. But you don't have to be the last one to act. Example: you are in LMP with TJs and call. If everyone behind you calls or folds, great, you are in cheap. If the button raises, SB three bets and BB caps --> lay it down. You only lost one SB taking the chance. The fish are the ones who call the additional three bets because they already have money in the pot.

SF
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  #36  
Old 07-09-2003, 06:18 AM
MrGrob MrGrob is offline
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Location: TEXAS, USA
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Default Re: Loose Game Strategy Adjustments

"I can understand how suited connectors can play well in loose aggressive games; you almost automatically have the pot odds to chase a straight draw or flush draw and when you hit nobody folds. Sounds good to me."

The above is true, however, only after you make the 1st mistake of calling with it in the first place, in my opinion. I don't care what kind of game it is, if you are always calling small suited connectors etc from early position, you are going to get hammered.... If you know that it is going to be capped pre-flop, and you call anyway, I really do not think it matters how many people are going to be in the hand, as you are going to invest way too much money upfront, and still run the risk of hitting and losing. There are certain hands that are constant losers, and if played all the time from anywhere, you will lose. Suited connectors are not bad, but only if you can get in for cheap and in late position or so.

I find lose / aggressing tables boring, myself, as you have to wait for the right hands in the right spots, and then hope they hold.

If you really think that playing suited connectors from any position, knowing that the betting is going to be capped, I believe you have a serious hole in your play...and unless you are playing with complete and total dolts, you are also not going to make the money you lose when you miss up, as they will drop out on you and not pay you off enough when you hit.

I may be misunderstanding you, but I really feel that you guys are way off base. The above is general, and changes from time to time depending on how the players are playing. But I cannot condone the idea that you have all the implied odds you need AFTER MAKING the 1st mistake of calling in the 1st place.

That is what I think....
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  #37  
Old 07-09-2003, 10:48 AM
jnm2524 jnm2524 is offline
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Default Re: Loose Game Strategy Adjustments

I completely agree with what youre saying and I believe I may not have made myself clear. I am not condoning playing medium suited connectors from early position - you are correct in saying that's a very poor idea - I am advocating them, when position and play allows you get in on the cheap, because of their implied odds. Here's a most important point with these, or any hand, for that matter: Pay attention and do not play from rote. Everything is situational and every decision should be made based on the read of the table. I think that is the point that I neglected to make in my first post and, if Im reading your reply correctly, it's what you are correctly pointing out. Would that be a fair assumption?
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  #38  
Old 07-09-2003, 01:58 PM
paoneaj paoneaj is offline
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Location: AZ, USA
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Default Re: Loose Game Strategy Adjustments

Exactly right. Play the big pairs and fold if the board flops suited, unless you flop a set. You want to play big suited connectors, cheaply. Meaning if you have AKs and you don't at least flop four cards to a flush, or top pair consider folding. Ultimately, all of this depends on how well you know your opponents and position. The one thing about hold-em is that it is a very situational game and therefore solutions are contingnet upon MANY factors.
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