Play this hand from the button?

[45suited]

1) After 3 limpers on level 2 in a game at 22 or lower, I'm calling with A5s on the button every time. EASY CALL.

2) Depending on reads (hard since it's L2) on that flop I would either call or raise, but if I raised, it would be a little more than 150. Probably 200 since the game is a 5+1. I'd be fine with taking the pot now, but a raise to 200 lets these fish know that I'm not playing around. Sometimes I would just call here though if I thought any of my opponents were very tricky or aggressive.

***This is what bugs me about the when people talk about the lower level buy-in SNGs. People rightfully say that most of the players suck but then they are afraid to call A5s on the button after 3 limpers on level 2??? Your opponents suck, this hand has the potential to triple you up at low risk!

[microbet]

[ QUOTE ]
***This is what bugs me about the when people talk about the lower level buy-in SNGs. People rightfully say that most of the players suck but then they are afraid to call A5s on the button after 3 limpers on level 2??? Your opponents suck, this hand has the potential to triple you up at low risk!

[/ QUOTE ]

RE: The paradox

Especially at the $6s I think you can almost have +ROI by starting the games and going to sleep, but on the other hand you should be able to really get paid off when you get into pots cheaply and hit something.

I don't know what's best, but it may well be different in the $6s than the $11s. I think those two are the most different of all adjascent buyins.

[gasgod]

[ QUOTE ]
Especially at the $6s I think you can almost have +ROI by starting the games and going to sleep, but on the other hand you should be able to really get paid off when you get into pots cheaply and hit something.

[/ QUOTE ]

I have fallen asleep twice in the last month, and finished third both times.

GG

[HesseJam]

1) I call and concurr with Andanthar that it's being the 5+1s makes this a nobrainer because you can get paid off.

2) I am not sure if a flop raise is a good idea here. There is some risk that you are up against a mistakenly slow played set (it´s the 5+1s!) and you'll get reraised or called (it's the 5+1s!). If called, you might not have the odds for the river when the set goes all-in on the turn.

I go with the easy poker rule that you should not raise a hand where you hate to be reraised. I'd preserve the free shot here.

[45suited]

I know what you're saying about just calling (since it's a 5+1), sometimes I would just call myself. Your comment about being called more in a 5 is well taken, that's why I would tend to raise to 200 instead of 150. That should be enough to get their attention. But if I'm re-raised, I'm not giving this hand up after raising the flop. I'm going all the way with it. Way too many outs...

[HesseJam]

You are right, I missed the straight draw and the slight TP winning chance.

[drgnfly8]

I like calling better than raising. If somebody has a lower flush draw, you are keeping them in to pay you off when the flush hits. You said the table is passive. So, somebody could easily be slowplaying a set, but is unlikely to raise with trash, so you should be able to draw cheaply until the river.

If they are slowplaying a set, let them give you a cheap draw and make a mistake by allowing you to complete the flush and burn them on the river if the board doesn't pair. If you raise, one of two things happens. Either everybody folds and you win a small pot - This is OK, but you should get paid off much more if the flush comes in. Second case is they reraise eliminating all your other callers and forcing you to either fold losing your raise chips, or else call taking a 4-1 shot on hitting the flush. Much better to not be put to that choice.

On the river, bet pot size or slightly more. Any flush will call, and the set may think you are trying to buy the pot from the scare cards. At $5+1, I have no doubts if you went all-in at the end, half the time some idiot would still call even with top pair or two pair.

[Scuba Chuck]

[ QUOTE ]
I like calling better than raising. If somebody has a lower flush draw, you are keeping them in to pay you off when the flush hits. You said the table is passive. So, somebody could easily be slowplaying a set, but is unlikely to raise with trash, so you should be able to draw cheaply until the river.

If they are slowplaying a set, let them give you a cheap draw and make a mistake by allowing you to complete the flush and burn them on the river if the board doesn't pair. If you raise, one of two things happens. Either everybody folds and you win a small pot - This is OK, but you should get paid off much more if the flush comes in. Second case is they reraise eliminating all your other callers and forcing you to either fold losing your raise chips, or else call taking a 4-1 shot on hitting the flush. Much better to not be put to that choice.

On the river, bet pot size or slightly more. Any flush will call, and the set may think you are trying to buy the pot from the scare cards. At $5+1, I have no doubts if you went all-in at the end, half the time some idiot would still call even with top pair or two pair.

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If we agree that this is a $5+1, then your thinking here is skewed. These players play with level 1 thinking. That means, "I have a hand." They will not be concerned with the flush on the board. And if they were concerned, betting should disguise.

What's wrong with winning a small pot? As stated earlier, disguise your hand by betting. If you play weak, and then strong when the flush completes, this is more of a tell, no? But if you play strong, and then play strong, this looks like you're trying to buy. Generally, building the pot into your flush draw is more of a payoff, than "waiting" for your flush to hit (although, I am already contradicting myself).

Finally, I don't think lower levels are smart enough to slow play a set (unless they just are too docile to bet, then they are genius). IMO, they would probably overbet pots. You are giving these players far too much credit.

In the end, you likely have better than 4:1 odds on the turn and the river. That includes flush draw, gutshot straight draw, and the ace (overcard). That's about 15 total undiscounted outs. That's about 2:1 (as I said, undiscounted).