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#11
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[ QUOTE ]
A limp here with just 1 limper isn't getting the right price. Plus I would rather limpers included an EP limper to discourage a steal from the blinds and have a better chance of getting paid off if he had AA/KK [/ QUOTE ] if you and the limper had 150 bb's, this would make sense. it does not make sense when the limper has 12. when he's this short, you want to steal ragged flops and win hands when you're the only person to flop a pair, which won't happen against AA/KK. you're not going to flop 2 pr or better often enough that you want to play against AA/KK. |
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#12
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[ QUOTE ]
If you're going to play an 8-high suited hand and you make your flush on the flop, that's the time to raise and avoid getting sucked out on with the turn or river. I would avoid limping at this stage- raises will often steal the blinds and limps. but if you're going to raise with 85s and you get re-raised, you have to dump it. but it should be easy to dump. I hope you realize how lucky you are to hit that flop with these cards. [/ QUOTE ] raising here would be pretty bad. BB is loose-fishy. limping here is fine. you and BB have ~25 bb's, and you know he's going to play poorly after the flop. he's probably not likely to raise pre-flop since he checked the flop and turn with TP last hand. he may also give you a lot of free cards to your gutshot or whatever. i like this limp. |
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#13
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[ QUOTE ]
in the case where they both have a spade + draw and won't fold, your analysis is fine. the only problem is that you assumed that that's what they had for no reason at all. here's another possibility: MP1 has something like Ac9s and BB has Kc4h. MP1 calls the flop hoping his draw is good. if you raise here, BB will come along drawing nearly dead and MP1 will fold, figuring his draw is probably no good. and another: BB has Kc4h and MP1 has KdQh. they'd be happy to go to war on the flop, but you turn a spade. now you're risking getting pushed off the hand, or you won't get any action. [/ QUOTE ] As for your first possibility, I mean this is getting pretty specific on hands, I'd have to assume that these are the hands and then the BB would call my all in with K-rag and no spade? He would be more likely to think my call was a draw and would push K-rag harder on the turn. The 2nd possibility, those are the hands I want to go to war with, but unlikely to get it all in on the flop, more likely to get all in on a non spade turn. |
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#14
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yes, those are obviously very specific examples. i'm just using them to demonstrate that there are a lot of hands out there besides hands where both villains have a decent spade. my class of examples includes a crapton of hands.
[ QUOTE ] The 2nd possibility, those are the hands I want to go to war with, but unlikely to get it all in on the flop, more likely to get all in on a non spade turn. [/ QUOTE ] they might not get a-i with you on the flop (the shorty would), but they would start moving in that direction. also remember a Q/A/9 can also kill your action against something like 2-pair. all in all, too many cards kill your action. |
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#15
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[ QUOTE ]
they might not get a-i with you on the flop (the shorty would), but they would start moving in that direction. also remember a Q/A/9 can also kill your action against something like 2-pair. all in all, too many cards kill your action. [/ QUOTE ] I could kill a two pair hand from the BB, but no way shorty has two pair, I cant see him CALLING a pot bet on the flop with two pair, he would probably raise here. If BB has two pair, well then, a scare card could hit the turn and kill my action. I was waiting for someone to come with the two-pair response, It looked like a possible two pair flop for the limper (K-10, J-10), when he ddint raise the flop, I figured it was a flush draw, or a pair/straight draw (KQ,QJ,Q-10 no spades) Yes my line could kill action form the BB if he holds two pair and a scare card hits, but I knew he would push a non-spade turn. |
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