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#11
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No reason to not play 3/6, you'll want to learn the lessons presented there sooner or later. And if you have the bankroll for it, why not sooner? Try this, take your 1800-2400 to the 3/6 table and play. If you drop down to 1000-1600, step back down to 2/4. Do this until you feel like you've managed the swings. And be prepared to sit at tables where 50% of the players are 10-15/5-10 (mostly 3+ MTers), and 4 players range between 65/2 and 40/15. Also keep in mind that later street play is not at all dependant on the PF numbers - this is highlighted in 3/6. - Jim [/ QUOTE ] stop trying to get more fish in your game. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] seriously, good post. |
#12
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There's no real reason to be playing 2/4 over $3/6, unless you simply feel more comfortable, and I think that's a fine reason (logic aside, it's easier to play better where you feel comfortable). $3/6 is harder but from what I've seen, not by a lot. It's basically tighter and more boring than $2/4.
Personally, I'm happy with $3/6 shorthanded games right now. Seems to be very good money there. I should probably get a few K hands in at the Party $3/6 tables, but I get soooooooo bored. Rob |
#13
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I've played about 12k hands of 2/4 so far. I plan on playing 20k before I move up, for a few reasons:
1. My win-rate is pretty high -- about 4BB/100 -- and I've heard this is unsustainable. My VP$IP is also a bit high -- about 21-22% -- even though I feel like I play pretty tight. These two facts together make me wonder if I've just had a long run of good cards so far, so I'd like to have a slightly larger sample size to make sure I really am comfortably beating this level. 2. I know I have a lot of leaks, and make some bone-headed plays a little too often, so I'd like to work on my game a little more before moving up. 3. I have enough bankroll for 3/6, but I'd like to cash out some money over the next few months. I figure by staying at 2/4, I can cash out most of my winnings while playing the next 10k hands, and still have enough roll for 3/6 at that point. I rushed my jump to 2/4 anyway ... took a shot when I only had about 175BB, and was successful. So I figure I should spend some extra time here and iron out the kinks. I am looking forward to moving up in a few months though. |
#14
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I don't think there is much of a difference b/t 2/4 or 3/6 in online play... in a B&M 3/6 usually has a few less people that play ANY two cards so it is easier to get a read on them.
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#15
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One of the reasons I actually hate $3/6 from the play I've had is I really don't like a 1/3 blind structure. I like more money in the pots more often, and that's discouraged by $3/6's blind structure.
Rob |
#16
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Damn, seems like I'm too risk averse or something. Oh and I've played over 150K 2/4 hands. 30K 3/6 hands.
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#17
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Damn, seems like I'm too risk averse or something. Oh and I've played over 150K 2/4 hands. 30K 3/6 hands. [/ QUOTE ] Damn, that's a lot of $2/4. I've played a few thousand of $2/4 and fewer $3/6. Will probably find myself playing more $3/6 in the near future. Rob |
#18
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One of the reasons I actually hate $3/6 from the play I've had is I really don't like a 1/3 blind structure. I like more money in the pots more often, and that's discouraged by $3/6's blind structure. Rob [/ QUOTE ] The flip side is, you get more medium-sized pots on 3/6 in blind steal situations, which would more often be small pots on 2/4. It was hard to adjust to at first, but once you get used to it there are pretty obvious advantages & disadvantages to the 1:3 blinds. |
#19
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The flip side is, you get more medium-sized pots on 3/6 in blind steal situations [/ QUOTE ] Why is that? With a 1/3 structure, there's less dead money in the pot to begin with, and the SB is less likely to defend. Why is the likelihood of a medium-sized pot inreased? Rob |
#20
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why aren't you playing 3/6? reasons might include, but aren't limited to 1) bankroll 2) confidence 3) fish factor - 2/4 is fun 4) still want to learn some lessons 2/4 has to teach - blind play, marginal hands out of position, aggression with more marginal hands 5) want to experience a downswing so it hurts less at 3/6 6) I'm a huge flaming wuss. I've played about 5K hands of 2/4, and I'm thinking about moving up to 3/6 after another 5K. I'm running ok, not great, not bad. I just want to get a handle on whether or not I should stick around past 10K - I stayed around 1/2 for a long time and it helped my game fo sho. I saw about 20 posts in the micro forum about the differences between .5/1 and 1/2 and 2/4, but not much is mentioned about 3/6 except "play tighter in the small blind." so really I'm just hoping to start some discussion here. [/ QUOTE ] I would use caution, but then again I tend to be quite conservative. I just made the jump to 3/6. I had around 30K hands at 2/4 at 2.75bb/100. In my short time at 3/6(2K) hands, I have taken some hideous beats (which can make one shakey), and it seems that the players are much more aggressive postflop. (Lots of turn c/r's into the preflop raiser, etc). It has felt like players are constantly making moves on me. My sample size is too small, as I may just be running into better hands. Either way, at this point I am sensing a difference in the play at 3/6. In your case, 5K hands is not much at all to base anything on. All it takes is a few bad suckouts to skew your #'s in either direction. If you have the bankroll, take a shot. But if you are worried about losing, you won't be able to play your "A" game. |
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