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#11
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The table was more or less completed Saturday afternoon and we held the game Saturday night. It was very much a success. Ten players was very comfortable and we even had eleven people playing at the table for a short time, despite the shortage of a drink holder.
Since spills could be an issue, I broke down and purchased a hole saw to install drop-in drink holders. To prevent elbow creases, we picked up some pipe insulation at Home Depot to use as padding for the edge. It wasn't as large or as dense as the stuff from casinosupply.com, but it was only 1/12 the cost. It should last at least a couple of months and I didn't need a pneumatic stapler to attach it. Total out-of-pocket cost, including the hole saw, was $130, and our low-rent bunch was very pleased with the results. I'll see if I can't get some pictures. I don't think I'll be selling them, though. My woodworking skills aren't very impressive, and there are much nicer commercially available tables out there. |
#12
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I've got to do another table for our card room this weekend. If the weather is good I'll do it outside and photograph it step by step.
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#13
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Then glue / drywall screw them togther with the bad sides in.
Are you using a backer board for the drywall screws? The joint seems like it would be awfull weak given the weight that would be resting on it. Would it pay to biscuit join hte center glue and then re-enforce the center? Or am I being too paranoid? |
#14
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[ QUOTE ]
Are you using a backer board for the drywall screws? The joint seems like it would be awfull weak given the weight that would be resting on it. Would it pay to biscuit join hte center glue and then re-enforce the center? Or am I being too paranoid? [/ QUOTE ] You're thinking of a center edge joint. I'm talking about a sandwitch joint to make one sheet 8' x 4' by 1 1/2" |
#15
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Now just pad, felt and attach a rail. [/ QUOTE ] Why do you place padding under the felt? I would think a hard surface would make the cards slide easier. Does it make the felt last longer? |
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