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#21
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Anybody who played a lot of play money tables before moving to the real thing will tell you that the exact game you described are a limit players dream. These are either lose a little or win a lot tables. You will have many losing sessions and days and the odd week but these games on the whole are huge earners. As long as you know when to keep going and when to drop your hand you should be killing them.
Suited connectors have HUGE value on these tables and should certainly be played from any position if the whole table routinely sees the flop. |
#22
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Yeah about those connectors, SSHE says only play them from late position (the lower ones).. is that because from early you don't know if enough people will be in on the flop to give you the proper odds? Because in loose games, since you know they will bet behind you, maybe it's ok to play them earlier anyway?
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#23
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[ QUOTE ]
See this is the confusion though, I know that if the board is coordinated, you want to wait for the turn, and if it's a blank, protect then. [/ QUOTE ] Not necessarily. [ QUOTE ] But in this example (which is very similar to one in the book) it says raise on the flop. But either way, everyone just calls so what's the real difference? [/ QUOTE ] This is in the book. |
#24
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Ok, so here's my confusion. There are four options involving when to protect your hand (flop or turn) and how to do so (raise or check-raise). How do I figure out when to do what? I get as so far as to say, with a coordinated flop and a decent pot you can't protect on the flop, but beyond that I'm a bit confused. I'll read the section again but want to know your thoughts.
edit: yeah it's good i reread this section :d |
#25
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About the small suited connectors:
If you knew they will bet behind you AND if you knew that they won't raise behind you you could play them in earlier position. small suited connectors are only profitable: 1. If the pot is multiway 2. You can see the flop cheaply btw, same goes for small PP |
#26
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[ QUOTE ]
About the small suited connectors: If you knew they will bet behind you AND if you knew that they won't raise behind you you could play them in earlier position. small suited connectors are only profitable: 1. If the pot is multiway 2. You can see the flop cheaply btw, same goes for small PP [/ QUOTE ] IF nearly every pot has 8 to the flop and most of the players are going to the river with their hands I would play suited connectors, Ax suited and small PP from EP even if a raise behind me was likely. They are great hit the flop or drop hands and of course we all love to bet and raise our hands for value when we have a strong draw with lots of players in. I would not call cold with them from EP unless EVERY flop was 6 handed or more. |
#27
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Anybody who played a lot of play money tables before moving to the real thing will tell you that the exact game you described are a limit players dream. [/ QUOTE ] God yes. My response to the original message was, "Wow, what is this Fortune site and why aren't I playing there?" In fact, someone please give me a link to their website. |
#28
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[ QUOTE ]
Yeah about those connectors, SSHE says only play them from late position (the lower ones).. is that because from early you don't know if enough people will be in on the flop to give you the proper odds? Because in loose games, since you know they will bet behind you, maybe it's ok to play them earlier anyway? [/ QUOTE ] There is also another issue involved: When playing small suited connectors, if you connect with the flop, you will most likely still have a drawing hand, and position is even more important when you draw than when you have a made hand. So even if you KNOW that four people are going to call behind you, and noone will raise, you are worse off than when calling from the button after four limpers. |
#29
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[ QUOTE ]
See this is the confusion though, I know that if the board is coordinated, you want to wait for the turn, and if it's a blank, protect then. But in this example (which is very similar to one in the book) it says raise on the flop. But either way, everyone just calls so what's the real difference? And their calls give me little to no information except that they either have a pair or are on some kind of draw. As to what hands they have, it was suggested 98 or 86 for example. [/ QUOTE ] What you have to understand is that you want them to call. You give them improper odds to call to put yourself in a win-win situation. If they fold - thats good; if they call - that`s better. |
#30
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I didn't read the other responses.
[ QUOTE ] The flop is K75 rainbow. A player in early position bets. Now supposedly again I am supposed to raise to knock out weak draws and strongly improve my chances of winning. [/ QUOTE ] I'm assuming that you are in good position relative to the early position bettor. You should read point #2 in this post about raising to protect your hand. |
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