when to play A2, etc.

[jfuxa22]

Is it ever profitable to play A2, A3, etc. when they are not suited. These hands arent ranked in "Hold 'em Poker For Advanced Players". It has Ax suited as ranked 5, does this mean that you will never play A2, A3, etc. if they arent suited, and when they are suited you play them as a group 5?

[chesspain]

I only play Axo (below AT) if I'm in the blind and it's less than one SB to complete. It's just two easy to make a second best hand with these cards.

[jfuxa22]

so the chance of getting a straight doesnt make playing this hand worthwhile very often?

[chesspain]

You mean the chance to fill only the ignorant (AKA "idiot") end of the straight?

[nykenny]

u guys are way too harsh on AXo. they can be played plenty. just don't play when you are likely to be 2nd best if you flop A.

Kenny

[LetsRock]

If you do get "lucky" (sometimes this luck is not good!) and make your wheel, you're always vulnerable to a bigger straight.

My preference is too stay away from Ax off unless I'm button (in a very weak game, and the cards are treating me right) or it plays cheap (SB, BB). The problem is that there are very flops that work for these hands that you can be comfortable enough with to make any money. Generally, you're stuck check/calling most flops that appear to help a little. You may win a few, but probably not enough to be worth the risk.

[CORed]

The straight value of A2-A5 is very limited. There is only one combination of ranks for each hand that will make a straight using both pocket cards. Connectors JT-54 have four combinations of ranks that will make a straight using both pocket cards. If you flop 4 to your straight, you will always have a gutshot draw, with 4 outs to a straight that may be second best and 3 outs to a top pair that will often be second best. If you make a wheel, there is always a better straight possible. With A2, there are 2 better straights possible. A2-A5 offsuit should generally only be played in blind-stealing or blind-defending situations, or as a free or cheap play in unraised blinds.

[jbc]

Agreed, I generally only stay with these hands if they are free (BB) or cheap (SB). Most of the time, I won't play them in SB either. The only exception, of course, would be very shorthanded or heads up, where it will generally be profitable to stick with any A (sometimes any K 2). <-- to see the flop of course, not to stick w/ til' showdown.

In a full game though, like chess says, it's too easy to make a losing hand with these cards. What to do if an A flops with these cards? I think half the time people end up check/calling down and throw away bets to any A w/ any kicker.

Course on the other hand, I do find myself getting beat by these small aces, in instances where I stick around w/ AQ, etc., and ended up getting beaten by two pair when the board comes up rags. Oh well, these are just the ones that stick with me - big aces will win much more often against small aces (obviously).

jbc

[AQheartbreak]

Aww muck em. When you think about starting hands in hold em, you usually want the lesser of you hand to hit. e.g. AQ, you would rather a Q hit than your ace. So A2, A3, is junk, you gotta hit your hand twice to win

[nykenny]

play them.

1) call behind, when you suspect that no one has an Ace has come in before you. and you are on button or cut off or small blind.

2) raise, if you are first-in in late position that you feel there is a good chance the blinds will fold to a raise.

3) call, on button (maybe cut-off) if you are first in and suspect no one has folded an Ace and know that blinds will defend with any trash and they will play some how more straight-forward if you simply just call.

4) free play from big blind.

5) call 1 bet, if the raise come from late position and it could be either a weak raise (JT, KQ, 87s, etc.) or a steal raise (86o, 75o, K2o, Q7o, any two cards, etc.)

you fold. in all other situations almost all the time.

Kenny