Dimensions of home poker table?

[BigBaitsim (milo)]

Building a table for my home game, usually 6 to 8 players, no dealer. I'm wondering what dimensions to use for this table. The fabric I have to cover it (some ultrasuede picked up for cheap on eBay) and the foam (1/4 from efoamstore.com) are both 54" wide and I was thinking of an oval table, cut from plywood. Thanks in advance!

-Milo

[Chad Florian]

I made mine from 4x8 plywood which worked out great. Cut semi-circles at each end then padded, covered and railed for a really nice oval table that seats 10 comfortably or 12-13 only slightly cramped.

-Chad

[BigBaitsim (milo)]

Thanks! I was thinking of doing what you each suggested, but wondered about whether to buy one sheet or laminate two sheets together. The only think I have yet to buy, other than the wood, is the rail. The foam rubber one at casinosupply.com looks like the easiest and cheapest. Sound good?

[Chad Florian]

I used one sheet of 1 inch oak plywood and it is very sturdy. I also used the foam bumper from casinosupply and the poker speed cloth. The foam bumper is fairly easy. Just make sure you get it on the right way as the cut is at an angle. The tough part is connecting the 2 ends (assuming you go all the way around without a dealer chip tray). I just used super glue to hold the ends together and it worked nicely....
hth,
-Chad

[slamdunkpro]

Really? Was one sheet of 1 inch oak cheaper than 2 of 3/4 BC? I know I paid a fortune for the 9 x 5 sheets that I cut my full sized tables out of.

BTW Black Silicon rubber works great to attach the ends of the casionsupply rail.

[Chad Florian]

The 8x4 sheets were around $50 if I remember correctly... May have been $60. Plus I built my table to sit on top of my dining room table. I imagine if mine were standalone I might need it thicker... Mine might have also been 3/4" going by that weird-ass add 1/4" to the "real" measurment deal. Kind of like a 2x4 is really a 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 or something like that. It never really made sense to me. But then again it's all based on a system that's non base-10 and was originally derived from the size of the king's foot! I wish us Americans would adopt metric like the rest of the planet... Oops.. I got off on a tangent....

[slamdunkpro]

A full size hold'em table is 103" x 44". IF you are only playing 6 - 8 players you can get by with a stud table which is 84" x 42". You will need a jig saw to radius the ends.

Best way is to buy 2 sheets of BC grade plywood and get the store (Home Depot / Lowes) to cut them both down to the square dimension. Then glue / drywall screw them togther with the bad sides in. Draw a line (stud table) 21" in from each end then use a cheap yard stick as a trammel by driving a drywall screw half way through at the 1" mark , then drill a hole at the 22" mark that you can wedge a pencil in. Place the pencil on one of the lines at the edge of the plywood and the drywall screw should be in the center of the plywood. Then drag the pencil around to creat your arc - repeat on the other side. Voila' a nice stiff poker table top. Now just pad, felt and attach a rail.

[slavic]

Then glue / drywall screw them togther with the bad sides in.

Are you using a backer board for the drywall screws? The joint seems like it would be awfull weak given the weight that would be resting on it. Would it pay to biscuit join hte center glue and then re-enforce the center? Or am I being too paranoid?

[slamdunkpro]

[ QUOTE ]
Are you using a backer board for the drywall screws? The joint seems like it would be awfull weak given the weight that would be resting on it. Would it pay to biscuit join hte center glue and then re-enforce the center? Or am I being too paranoid?

[/ QUOTE ]

You're thinking of a center edge joint. I'm talking about a sandwitch joint to make one sheet 8' x 4' by 1 1/2"

[GrinToday]

[ QUOTE ]
Now just pad, felt and attach a rail.

[/ QUOTE ]

Why do you place padding under the felt? I would think a hard surface would make the cards slide easier. Does it make the felt last longer?