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#1
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I've been spending most of my time at $.50/$1 and want to move up. After mining the play at the $1/$2 and $2/$4 tables I've noticed the play is about equally as tight, around 35% seeing the flop. The down side to $1/$2 is the rake is a higher percentage of the pot. My question is should I just build the bankroll necessary for $2/$4 and skip $1/$2 altogether? Is there something I'm missing here?
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#2
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I spent very little time at 1/2, just enough to build the last roll to 2/4. It's not a bad choice to be in this game to be able to adjust to a tighter game. I wouldn't suggest staying here long. It's too tight. If you can just jump to 2/4 do it, just be aware how much of a jump in stakes you are going.
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#3
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On the plus side 1/2 6 max are a gold mine, but you'd probably need almost as much of a roll for 1/2 6 max as 2/4 full ring so maybe you should just wait and move up to 2/4.
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#4
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[ QUOTE ]
I've been spending most of my time at $.50/$1 and want to move up. After mining the play at the $1/$2 and $2/$4 tables I've noticed the play is about equally as tight, around 35% seeing the flop. The down side to $1/$2 is the rake is a higher percentage of the pot. My question is should I just build the bankroll necessary for $2/$4 and skip $1/$2 altogether? Is there something I'm missing here? Thanks [/ QUOTE ] I think the tightness of 1/2 is overblown. I did about 15,000 hands there in two split periods (I blew my roll on tournies and had to start over). I think it is worthwhile. The games are much tighter and slightly more aggressive than .5/1. But if it is your intention to continue moving up levels you will have to learn to deal with tight games eventually. I think many people make the mistake of equating tight PF play and weak-tight postflop play with "tough" games. Over my small smaple size I beat this game for 3.5 BB/100, and I consider myself to be only an average player at best. It would not suprise me to hear that good players can beat this game for 4 BB/100 over an extended period. Many of the players use the "fit or fold" post flop style of play. This means that semi-bluffing is more effective. You will find yourself having more success stealing blinds and also you can take shots at smallish 2-3 way pots and you will find yourself taking alot of them down. You can do this without a lot of fear because most of these people will not play back at you. The other reason to play this level is that even at 2/4 you will more than occasionaly find yourself in a tight game. Or what happens to me frequently is on Party you will find a table with 2-3 people on your buddy list, but there will be 3-4 SL-A, TP-A, TA, TP-P types who are also following these people. So obviously you are going to sit at the game, but at some point you are going to have to get used to playing the tight players. My advice, play at least 10,000 hands. This will also help you adjust to the larger dollar amounts. I am still trying to get used to telling myself being up/down $100 at 2/4, is no big deal. This is after 9,000 hands. |
#5
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1/2 is kinda tight at times preflop, but the postflop play is still pretty bad. usually from 12-4am est, the tables are full of maniacs as the 6max players move to the full tables for some reason.
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#6
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If you want to continue moving up limits, you really should play 10k hands or so at 1/2, just to get a feel for it. You are going to learn the same lessons that you will at 2/4, but you will learn them cheaper.
Also, I have seen people on these boards say that, at party, the two toughest games are 5/10 full and 1/2 full. While that will mean playing against better competition, it will also help you immensly with reading opponents, table/seat selection and strategy for the higher limits. Play some 1/2, mix in some 6max (because it is a goldmine, a swingy, swingy goldmine) and move up from there. No one ever regretted the time they spent at 1/2. |
#7
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[ QUOTE ]
If you want to continue moving up limits, you really should play 10k hands or so at 1/2, just to get a feel for it. You are going to learn the same lessons that you will at 2/4, but you will learn them cheaper. Also, I have seen people on these boards say that, at party, the two toughest games are 5/10 full and 1/2 full. While that will mean playing against better competition, it will also help you immensly with reading opponents, table/seat selection and strategy for the higher limits. Play some 1/2, mix in some 6max (because it is a goldmine, a swingy, swingy goldmine) and move up from there. No one ever regretted the time they spent at 1/2. [/ QUOTE ] I was going to write a response, but this is far better. Good job, killa. |
#8
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Excellent points. I will go to $1/$2 first.
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#9
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I find the difficulty of 1/2 and 5/10 on Party to be wildly overstated. Yes, you are going to spend more time on table selection, but it's by no means hard.
Actually 5/10 full ring on Party is horrible. Nothing to see here, please don't stop by. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] Shoo! |
#10
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[ QUOTE ]
I find the difficulty of 1/2 and 5/10 on Party to be wildly overstated. Yes, you are going to spend more time on table selection, but it's by no means hard. Actually 5/10 full ring on Party is horrible. Nothing to see here, please don't stop by. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] Shoo! [/ QUOTE ] going to agree with this. i am shocked when i find people that say the party 1/2 thru 5/10 levels are hard. There is nothing hard about them. Playing ABC poker and SSH style will easily get you 3bb+/100 on these tables. |
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