You have to adjust to the table you're at. When you're playing against weak opponents, you have to take the sophisticated stuff out. I wouldn't say don't semi-bluff, but, don't overdo it. Read it, think about what he says, and slowly work it in to your play. The only way to know what will work and what won't is through experience. And, like I said, some plays work at some tables, others will not.
He has some great advice in there about playing AA and KK, especially from early position. He talks about being more aggressive with them in late position. He's absolutely right about that. Be hyper-aggressive with AA and KK UTG and UTG+1 and see how many times you get outdrawn. Nothing can put you on tilt faster. What he says will start to make a lot of sense then.
I think what a lot of guys mean when they say you can go broke by following what he says deals a lot with his "favorite" hands, suited connectors. He even advocates limping in with suited one- and two-gappers from any position: "With any two cards to a straight flush, connected or not-except the top and bottom cards of a straight-flush, such as 8 [img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img]-4 [img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img] or J [img]/images/graemlins/heart.gif[/img]7 [img]/images/graemlins/heart.gif[/img]-I'd come in from any position. In late position I'd raise with them." This is where he gets a little loose and following such advice can be dangerous, you have to be real good to play this way and be deep stacked, which isn't usually the case in capped buy-in games. Basically you'd be putting in too much money with hands like this to make it worth your while. For me, at least, such hands work better when I have position and I don't like to be calling reraises with them too often.