[Wintermute]

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Like a lot of things, there are average Creme Brulee's, and some freaking amazing ones. A lot of it depends on the torching of the sugar on top and the mix between the warm hardened surface and the cold pudding'ish stuff below.

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For a creme brulee afficionado, you seem to have your priorities misplaced. Sure, the torched sugar can be fcuked up, but any competent chef can get that right. The true mark of an excellent creme brulee is definitely in the custard. In fact, I prefer the non-"custard" version (no eggs used in the "custard", creating a more runny version). Nothing is worse than a dry creme brulee, although venturing too far into runny territory is just as bad. The trick with preparing it when you don't use eggs is to set the custard using this method:

-combine whipping cream, sugar, vanilla to taste, and pour into ramekins
-fill baking pan about 1/4" high with boiling water (not so high it will come over the top of the ramekins--you may want to put saran wrap over the ramekins in fact to prevent any water from splashing in there)
-place ramekins into pan w/ boiling water, place whole thing into oven at 300ish for about 20-30 minutes

Lots of crap creme brulees are just made with egg to ensure that it will set easily and therefore have good presentation. But it doesn't matter if it looks nice if it tastes like sh!t.

Other marks that separate the best from the truly exceptional are the accompanying garnishes. I prefer fresh raspberries & blackberries.