[pzhon]

Here are a few things I felt were missing. It's natural to omit some of them, but you may want to say what you are leaving out.

[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img] What is the size of the pot?

[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img] What was the preflop action?

[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img] What is the texture of the board? How likely is it that others hit the flop, or have a draw, or already have a flush or a straight?

[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img] What is your plan for made hands that are weaker than top pair, e.g., A7 on a 973 flop?

[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img] What do you do with hands that have combined made strength and drawing strength, e.g., AK unimproved on a rag flop?

[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img] When would you ever check-raise?

[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img] When would it be right to slow-play?

I also don't know what you mean by two pair weak kicker versus two pair strong kicker. To a novice, it may sound like you are advocating playing 22 strongly on a board of ATT, but not playing KQ as aggressively on a board of KQ2.

I would prefer to see the betting patterns with made hands graded by levels of aggression, not the rank of the made hand. You might describe which levels might correspond to which hands in some situations, and how you might change the levels of aggression depending on the turn and river. For example, if you flop a straight you can be very aggressive, but you should slow down if the turn completes a flush draw and pairs the board or makes a higher straight likely.