Cribbage variation
 

Nice simple idea for y'all:

Ever tried cribbage with a doubling cube?

Adds a whole different dimension to a lot of somewhat unbalanced games that otherwise are straightforward "maximize your chance to get to 91" positions for the underdog.

Re: Cribbage variation
 

Explain more.

BTW- After 40+ years, had my first 28 yesterday. Must'v drawn to that hand at least two dozen times -- finally hit it (a 5). I don't even want to calculate the number of years before the trip 5's accompany J suited to case 5, but I've got my camera ready. [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

http://209.63.249.82/28.jpg

Re: Cribbage variation
 

I had just been thinking in terms of allowing either player to double the stakes before the start of a new hand (and the player who owns the cube being allowed to redouble on a subsequent hand), essentially treating each deal as one "roll" in a backgammon match.

It'd be a bit different than backgammon - a lot fewer redoubles - because of how wildly a single hand can affect your position. Maybe we'd need to allow doubles both before a deal, and before the starter was turned?

Re: Cribbage variation
 

How about if the cube moves with the deal. Then there's the issue of a skunk -- if I'm dealing with 95 vs. 85 and I double, does my opponent save the skunk by withdrawing?

Re: Cribbage variation
 

[ QUOTE ]
Then there's the issue of a skunk -- if I'm dealing with 95 vs. 85 and I double, does my opponent save the skunk by withdrawing?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes - a big part of backgammon cube strategy is playing on to win a gammon instead of doubling and letting your opponent only resign a one-pointer. I was planning to preserve that aspect of it.

Re: Cribbage variation
 

What if the rules required each player to accept a double one time from their opponent *if* they were ahead, and both scores were below 91. If you were doubling while behind, based only on your position -- your opponent would have to accept (until one player hits home street).

Re: Cribbage variation
 

An un-needed rule, I think - if you're more than 30 pegs out, and are ahead in the count, it's possible for your opponent to have a *small* equity advantage, but these will all be correct takes: except at a few odd match scores dropping is only right if you are less than 25% to win.