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Multi-Table Tournaments - FAQ

Lets generate the Q and A's here, and then once we have everything, we can consolidate. I dont think its necessarily fair for one person to "come up with" the information. But collaboratively as a forum, we should be able to generate a pretty good FAQ.

I'll start listing some questions below, and will hold off from the answers til we have some great ones for each.

-What is FE (Folding Equity)? Why is it important?

-What books should I read for Multi-table Tournaments?

-What kind of bankroll should I have for MTT's to start out?

-What is the probability of <insert situation here>?

Q1. When do I fold AA or KK preflop?
Q2. When do I fold a flopped set/two pair?
Q3. Why am I getting flamed for this bad beat post?
Q4. I copied the hand history directly out of my email into my post. Why am I getting no replies?

Q5. Why does baby jesus cry?

Question 1: Is it ever right to fold KK preflop?

Answer 1:God no, unless u ABSOLUTELY KNOW the villain has AA. Also, you can fold KK (and even AA) if ur in a satellite and can fold into the seat.

I see this question at least once or twice a week from a n00b poster. I think this has to be on the FAQ

[ QUOTE ]

Q5. Why does baby jesus cry?

[/ QUOTE ]

A5. BECAUSE YOU TOUCH YOURSELF AT NIGHT!! (even though thats not the actual question asked in the Family Guy episode. answer seemed appropriate though)

What is FE?
Why is it important?

I think that we should give links to and descriptions of twodimes and pokerstove.

What books should I read?

There are a gazillion more...

Q: When should I start "sweat" threads?
Q: When should I start "official" threads?

Ok. Good start. Now how about starting to get some ANSWERS to those questions for the FAQ.

More questions too please. [img]/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

Nick

Q: I am always limping into the money short stacked, how do I make a final table?

Q: How often to the good players make it ITM?

Q: I only play at XXXX what other sites have good MTTS?

Q: I just watch A_plus play, he went from chip leader to busting out in an insanely short amount of time, why?

<ul type="square">[*]Question 1: When should I fold AA or KK preflop?
AA and KK are the two best hands in poker. KK is behind to only AA. When you have KK, someone else will have AA at a full table approximately less than 5% of the time. It is nearly impossible to have a read good enough to determine whether someone has AA. So just get your chips in, you will probably be ahead.
[*]Question 2: Should I slowplay AA?

Most of the time, no. Slowplaying should be reserved for huge monsters that have very little chance of being redrawn on. Remember, AA is only one pair, it's not that big of a monster. So except in very rare circumstances, just bet and raise big. If anyone has anything, you will get action, and if they have nothing, you are just giving them a chance to draw out on you.
[*]Question 3. When do I fold a set/two pair?

In most cases, the answer is no (unless you have one pair in your hand and the board is paired obviously). The only time you should consider folding a set (including bottom set) is if the board is something like 9[img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img] 8[img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img] 7[img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img] and you have 8[img]/images/graemlins/club.gif[/img] 8[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img], and you are playing against tight opponents who are playing back at you. The same thing with two pair. If the board is draw heavy, don't give people a chance to draw out on you, and if someone has a better hand (like set over set), that's poker. Dan Harrington says folding a set if you suspect a higher set is nearly always wrong because if you are capable of making that fold you are probably folding the winning hand way too much.
[*]Question 4. Why am I getting flamed for this bad beat post?

Bad beats are part of poker. If you make an obviously correct play, go allin, get called, and your opponent draws out on you, that happens. People lose to one outers. People lose to runner runner perfect perfect (flopped quads losing to a royal flush or something). It happens.

People on this board will only have one of two reactions:

1) They don't care
2) They are happy

P.S. You owe the Bad Beat Police $1
[*]Question 5: I copied the hand history directly out of my email into my post. Why am I getting no replies?

Raw hand histories are very hard to read. You can find the converter here. Simply paste the history into the box on the left and copy the converted history into your post.
[*]Question 6: I posted a hand from a live tourney/from memory. Why am I getting no replies?

Hand histories typed in by hand are also really hard to read. Try to include relevant facts like blind sizes, stack sizes, how many players are left, how many pay, the complete action on every street. Don't say something like "a couple of limpers, I raise in the CO with JJ"; to say the same thing type: "UTG limps, MP1 limps, MP2 limps, I raise to 1200 with J[img]/images/graemlins/heart.gif[/img] J[img]/images/graemlins/spade.gif[/img]"
[*]Question 7: Ok I did everything you said in the previous two questions. Now why am I getting no replies?

Most likely the reason is that you didn't include any relevant read on your opponents. Please include this, even if it's vague like "generally tight" "generally loose". More preferable is "aggressive preflop, weak/tight postflop when he misses". Even if it's just "I just moved to the table, so no reads", say that, because then we know your opponents have no read on you either.
[*]Question 8: What is the probability of <insert situation here>?

It's fairly annoying for us to do the math when there are tools available out there for you.

1) If you want straight up probabilites, use Twodimes

2) If you want probabilities against a range of hands, there is a great program called Pokerstove. You can find it here: Pokerstove

3) How does the difference in chip EV affect my real $EV? There is no real way to determine this for sure. One model is the Independant Chip Model. You can find information and a calculator for it here: Dethgrind's ICM calculator

4) What is the probability of <insert hand> preflop against <insert number> opponents?

GoCee has a great chart. You can find it here: GoCee
[/list]
Alright that's enough for now. I have the UBB source saved.

[ QUOTE ]
What is FE?
Why is it important?

[/ QUOTE ]

FE stands for folding equity. It denotes the amount of money you stand to win by making a bet if all remaining players fold to your bet, weighted by the probability that it will fold around. It is also frequently used to just mean your ability to make people fold.

Folding equity is a particularly important concept for shortstacked play. Late in a tournament, your stack will become very shallow relative to the blinds (and antes, if present). If it gets too small - say 2.5 BBs - it will become nearly impossible for you to push preflop and make the big blind fold, because the big blind will be getting excellent odds to call you with any two cards. In such situations, you no longer have any real alternatives to sitting around and waiting for a hand that will stand up to a caller or two to get your money in the middle.

Consequently, people will frequently talk about making plays with stacks of 5-6 BBs to preserve FE. In such situations, it can frequently be profitable to push any two (particularly from late position) if you will be called sufficiently rarely. In a nutshell this is because the amount of dead money in the pot for you to win is such a large percentage of your stack that it makes up for the relatively rare times that you get called and end up as a substantial dog, since you have relatively little to lose in that case.

Holy crap... chief are you feeling well you look green!
~Justin

Q: What's the EV of Sex?

And how about a brief description of the top books for MTTs.

Q: How do particular starting hands change in value as a tournament progresses and blinds increase?

define a stop and go

gap concept

Q. Should I pass up small edges early/middle of an MTT? How small an edge should you push?

dont forget to provide ANSWERS people

What are the most important things I need to remember to do when I play to make the top three payspots in a MTT more often?

How does playing for an equal top prize among the top several finishers affect strategy (e.g. Top 6 win WSOP seats)

What should my strategy be for turbo satellites?

What kind of bankroll should I have for MTT's to start out?

What are the best MTT threads to look at?

What are the best sites for tournaments?

What are FPP's? What should I get for them? (Stars)

heh

sounds like whoever puts this together can write and publish a book....anyone know any publishers by chance?

[img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Re: Multi-Table Tournaments - FAQ

In general it seems at least once a day, someone asks: "To anyone who has won a tournament, what does it take to win? How can I go from a winning cash game player to winning mtts?"

Although it is important in all forms of poker, I beleive knowing your opponent is of the most importance in tournament poker. Knowing what he/she is capable of in a given circumstance is a must for commanding your table late in a tournament. Watching every single hand can be boring, but it definitely will be a huge help later when you have a really important decision. I have button raised with jacks, and folded to an all in getting a decent price, because I knew my opponent was scared and way too tight and would only play an overpair that way, and NOT AK. I have also called a resteal with junk like a7o getting a really sh*tty price because I knew my opponent was itching to play back at my abuse of his blinds.

In a cash game, if you make a mistake against a player you can lose your stack, reach back into your pocket and buy in again. In a tournament if you make a crucial mistake, you cant buy back into a tournament, and hours of work can be flushed down the toilet just like that. I have much better results in high buy in tournaments because I usually only play 1 at a time, and watch the action closely. I dont usually do as well if im 3 tabling 20 or 30 dollar tournaments- despite the worse competition (although I have found the difference is players isn't as big as one would expect.)

Re: Multi-Table Tournaments - FAQ

Is it +EV to play in this tournament? (Referring to a "guaranteed" tourney with XX amount of people)

Rebuy + Add On strategies?

I was going to suggest sites/tourneys to play in, but I don't want them flooded with 2+2ers.

Oh, it would be super cool to have a sticky of a calender of popular/large MTTs coming up each week. Actually, that would make me a very happy boy.

check with M.B.E.

He's probably at the WSOP right now, but he had been working on a FAQ per this thread.

Later,
Che

Stop and go - bb play

Aqo bb B&M Tournament Hand: How is the play?
Hi all:
I've been reading the forum for a while now, but this is my first post. I'd love to get some feedback on a hand the other night.

B&M NL Hold 'em Tournament, $50 buy-in + $5 rake. 60 players to start.
11 Players remaining. Top 9 seats pay.
The chip stacks among the 11 players are very tight. 11th place has about 2500 chips. 1st place around 5000. I have about 3600 chips.

The play has been tight. A lot of strong raises pre-flop with no callers and blind-stealing.

I am in the BB with AQo. Fold to MP, who raises to 800. He likes to gamble and likes to go all-in with good, but not great hands. Fold to me in the BB. I move all-in, thinking that if I double up here that I am in top position, but really preferring MP will fold his minimum raise.

I will post the results at a later time. I would like to hear what you all think of the play here.
[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img]I don't consider this hand a very good candidate for the stop-and-go. One criterion, in my mind at least, for the stop-and-go play is that if you reraise all-in preflop, getting called is almost a certainty. Here the first raise is to T800, and might be a steal-raise with crappy cards. The all-in reraise is to T3600, 4.5 times the original raise. I don't see that I would consider this, at all, to be an almost certain call by the raiser.

Also, you are making the postflop play too easy for him here. If he flops something good, he'll call, and you just bet T2800 into a T1700 or so pot as a big dog. If he flops nothing, he'll always fold, which at this point, because he's getting such bad pot odds, you'd rather he called.

I really think I would prefer to either fold here, call to see the flop, or reraise all-in to try and win it now. I don't like the stop-and-go play with these stack sizes compared to the blinds and the raise. If the raise had been to T1500-2000, then the stop-and-go would make sense.

Later, Greg Raymer (FossilMan)
KJ bb short (stop and go)
KJ in BB. blinds 75/150, my stack is 380 after posting EP player who is seeing about 40% of flops min raises. folded to me. what’s my action

Stop-and-go.
Call preflop, and then bet the flop no matter what. You’ve got too much invested to fold to a player with these raising standards. And, the stop-and-go slightly improves your chances of surviving the hand, though admittedly not by much in this situation.

Later, Greg Raymer (FossilMan) 5/1/04
[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img]QJo bb Correct Late Tourney Decision
Poker Stars 10+rebuy NL (1303 entrants)

I have made it to 73rd and I am in the money (but barely enough to buy lunch). I am still 60 places away from any real money.

I am short stacked at 32,000 with the average north of 70,000. I big problem is that the blinds are 4,000/8,000 and I am in the Big Blind.

I have J,Qo and its folded to the cutoff who has a 200,000 stack. He makes is 16,000. This is only my second hand at the table so I have zero read - other than this looks like a steal and he could have anything, although probably at least a small pair or an A.

I push all in for my last 24,000. I am getting 46,000 for my 24,000 so I think this is correct, even though I am likely behind. If I win, I at least have a stack I can play with.

Obvious correct play?

BYW - he had A,6. The flopped teased me with a straight draw but I could not comple

Stop-and-Go n/m later, Greg Raymer (FossilMan)

99ep Should I used the "Stop and go"
Pokerstars 3+0 rebuy satellite
blinds 1000/2000 with 100 ante, I have 13,000 in chips
100 players left, I am dealt 9 9 in EP
I move all in,LP calls( 40,000)with A Q
Flop is
2 6 7, but he hits a Q on the turn
I am thinking now that I should of raised to say 3 or 4 thosand and then(assumeing he didnt set me all in before the flop) moved all in on the flop, and it would of put him to a hard call for 10,000 more since he hadnt hit anything and there was 3 hearts out there, is this what I should of done? Did I play the nines too strongly? The way I figured it was that I needed to double up twice more and steal the blinds once if I was going to make it to the top 26,so I figured I had to make a move

[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img]If he had raised to let's say T6000, and you were holding 99 in the big blind , that would've probably been the time for a stop-and-go. As was already stated, the stop-and-go play is where you are in early position, call a bet/raise, and do so with the intention of betting all-in on the next betting round. You do this because you think you have the best hand, but you also think the opponent has a good chance of getting out on you. You know if you reraise now they will be potstuck and call, but if you wait for the next card(s) to be dealt, they could have enough room to fold.

In your case, with T13,000, you call T6000 from the big blind. T13,000 in the pot, and T7000 in your stack. Now the flop comes and you bet all-in. They are getting almost 3:1 on the call, but they might be looking at the flop and give you credit for a big enough hand that they figure themselves to be more than a 3:1 dog, and fold. With a flop of small cards, you would LOVE to have AQ fold here. They are getting just about the right price to call, so by getting them to fold, you are getting just about the same EV on the hand, but at a MUCH lower risk to your stack.

Later, Greg Raymer (FossilMan)
99sb late (stop and go)
some of you may have been watching, if so you could help with me with details and please critique the play.
i was playing the party 200+ yesterday and was down to 13 people. i have a slightly below average stack at ~70k. when i was showering this morning, i remembered how tight the player in questions was and second guessed my play. the button, fairly tight, short stack at table ~50k. i think blinds were 4k/8k, he made it like 21k to go. i find 99 in my small blind? what do you do?
If you’re really sure he has to have you tied (two overcards) or beat (an overpair) almost all of the time, then yes, you can fold. However, with the table presumably being 6 or 7-handed, it’s unlikely he’s really that tight. But if he is, then fold.

If you choose to play, this is a VERY good time to consider the stop-and-go. If you raise all-in, he’s getting about 8:3 on the call, and he should call even if he was bluffing and has a crappy hand. So, instead of playing showdown, call preflop, and then bet him all-in on the flop every time. This way, he will fold a reasonable percentage of the time, and you’ll win a lot more often. Of course, many of your wins will now be about T30K smaller than they would’ve been, but some of your losses will turn into wins instead.

Later, Greg Raymer (FossilMan)
88 button is he trying to Stop and Go me?
$50 PP multi table. I have 88 on the button, 1,300 chips, blinds of 50/100. Someone who has me coverd limps... A lot of people have been limping at this table, and it's weak, they're limping with garbage. I raise to 400, he calls, it's heads up.

Flop comes, QT6, rainbow. He leads out all in. I've just been learning what a stop and go is by reading some threads on it here, and it looks like this could be a stop and go. Maybe he's stopping and going with AK, AJ, KJ, 99, 77, 66? Or he could have a made hand... No idea what he has really, I wish I had PStars timebank to use here.

There was 900 in the pot, so I can put up 900 to win 1800 here, call, fold?
[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img]No, at least by my definition of the play, he is NOT using the stop-and-go on you.

The sng is a play I use, usually when my blind is raised, and I think I have the best hand. However, I also think that I'd rather win what's out there now, as opposed to reraising all-in in a spot where I'm almost certain to get called. Thus, if I know he's pot stuck to call my all-in raise preflop, I might choose to just call preflop, and then bet the flop all-in. If he does call, it's no different than if I did it all preflop. If he folds, he will occasionally fold a hand that would've caught on me on the turn or river, and even less occasionally he will fold a hand that was ahead of me when I went all-in. The downside to the play is that I fail to win those extra chips every time my hand would've won at the showdown all-in.

Let's say I post a BB of T100. You raise on the button to T300. If I go all-in, it will be for a total of T600. With you getting pot odds of spending T300 more to win T950, you pretty much have to call with anything. However, if I flat-call your T300, and then bet the same T300 on the flop, getting 3:1 on the call isn't good enough if you think you only have 2-5 outs. Thus, you may fold.

Again, I do this when I would rather you folded, yet, I honestly believe I likely have the best hand preflop. Whether that's a good Ax, or a pair, it's a hand that is too good to fold to your position raise, but weak enough I'd love for you to fold now rather than race me for everything.

Plus, if I have AK, and bet all-in on the J95 flop, you might lay down a hand like 66. In that case, the sng play gains me HUGE equity.

Later, Greg Raymer (FossilMan)

88sb good use of stop-and-go with snowmen?
This is from one of the huge nightly $11+rebuy tourneys on PokerStars. About 70 players left; we are all in the money but not the significant money. Blinds 1500/3000, ante 150. A player with 67K (about average stack size) openraises two off the button to 15000. He’s pretty aggressive, but a 5xBB raise is unusual for him. Folded to me in the SB, with 45K left. I have pocket eights. What’s my play? (The BB is unlikely to play without a very good hand.)
I called the raise with the intention of moving in on any flop. BB folded. Flop was Js-Th-6h and I moved in for 31K. Results later.
No, I don’t like this play. If you think you’ve got the best hand, I would say it’s better to move in here. If you just call, you won’t know where you’re at postflop, and the big blind might come in as well. You’d hate to be against AT in the raiser’s hand and KQ in the big blind, or any of many other such combinations.

Also, I tend to use the stop-and-go in spots where these criteria are met.
First, I’m pretty sure I have the best hand now.
Second, if I reraise, there is very little chance the other guy will fold (and I’m not sure that’s true here, since you can make a 3x raise of his raise). Of course, you have to have first action postflop. Finally, even though I can’t raise enough to get him out preflop, I can bet enough on the flop that he will likely fold if he misses, even if he misses holding two overcards.

In your case, if you’re ahead, he easily might fold preflop. And I’m not so sure you’re ahead here either.

Also, to fold here and give up T1500 is not a big dent in your stack. I tend to go for the stop-and-go when I’m the big blind for like 10-15% of my stack, and the raise is to 30-50% of my stack. A reraise by me often won’t win preflop with these numbers, but the flop bet will win at least much of the time.

Later, Greg Raymer (FossilMan)
[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img]
77bb Detecting the stop and go? Is it possible?
Hello everyone,
Recently I’ve implemented the stop and go more into my game. Thanks to this forum, I’ve seen that it’s a very valuable weapon to carry, and becomes a necessity in order to survive. Here’s a recent hand where the stop and go worked perfectly for me.

Blinds are 300/600 I’m the short stack at the table with T3500 after posting the bb. It’s folded around to the co t7200 who makes it 1400 to go. Everyone folds to me and I look down and see 77, my first reaction was to push in, but co hasn’t been very aggressive and I detected that if I move in I was going to get called, so at best I would be a coin flip to win (I didn’t think he would raise with pairs below 77), and worse I was going to be dominated by a bigger pair. So I called with the intention of moving me in on any flop. The flop comes QJ6 rainbow and I move in for my last 2100. After taking a long time he folds and shows me his 99. I cant explain the kind of feeling you get knowing you were able to push your opponent off a hand that dominated you. Had I pushed in pre flop I was going to get called and get knocked out, but because of this hand I was able to hold on and finish in the money

Now seeing how valuable the stop and go is I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on detecting it. Here’s a hand I played where I believe my opponent was making a move on me but I just couldn’t call. Blinds are at 100-200 I have an average stack of 2300 and it’s folded around to me in mp. I find JJ and make it 600 to go it’s folded to the bb t1500 who calls. Flop comes Q87 rainbow and he moves in for his last 900 and I’m forced to fold my jacks.

Is the stop and go such a powerful move that it can’t be detected at all? I’ve thought a lot about it and it seems to me that one should be more inclined to call an all in bet when it’s coming from one of the blinds because that is the perfection position to use it, anyone have any thoughts on this and on detecting the stop and go all together? All thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

[img]/images/graemlins/diamond.gif[/img]There are two signs for detecting the stop-and-go play. The first is your opponent has to be knowledgeable enough to know the play. Most are not. Second, your opponent has to call your raise from out of position for a portion of his stack that is normally pot-committing. Or, another way of looking at it, his remaining stack is so small that he knows you can’t fold if he reraises preflop, but might fold if you bet all-in after he misses the flop.

The only defense is calling if you think you’re going to win the showdown often enough to justify the call. Being aware of how likely your opponent is to be making this play, as opposed to it being an “honest” bet because he hit the flop, is the key. Even then, sometimes you just have to fold.

In your case, I would’ve called with JJ, unless the opponent was so unthinking and relatively tight that he has to have QQ most of the time to make that bet.

Later, Greg Raymer (FossilMan)
55bb Correct all in with 5-5bb?
Pokerstars 20+2
blinds 1000/2000 with 100 ante
I have 12,500 in chips. 24 players left
I have 5-5 in the BB
MP(24,000) raises to 5000, I move all in, he has A-Q and hits a Q and wins the pot, was my push correct?

No.

It was the second best choice, but not the best.

I would use the stop-and-go play here. Call the raise, and bet the flop no matter what. Even if an A comes, bet all-in. When you bet with small cards on board, you are hoping he has a big Ax and will fold. When you bet after an A and/or other big cards hit, you are hoping he has a pocket pair above 5s, but folds to your flop bet.

If you reraise preflop here, you should expect him to call pretty much 100%. If you do the stop-and-go, and he always calls, it's the same thing. If he sometimes folds, you win the pot those times for sure, with the only downside being you don't win the extra T7500 those times your 55 would've won all-in. But 55 is vulnerable enough that you should be happy with that result, especially since sometimes you will be getting him to lay down a hand like 99 when the flop comes AQ3 and you bet all-in.

I don't think folding is a good choice here. You've already invested 1/6 of your stack in the blinds. Even if we just look at the all-in numbers, you're risking T10,500 to win T16,300. That's 3:2 in a spot where you'll be a slight favorite most of the time.

Later, Greg Raymer (FossilMan)
Quote:

I agree with the conclusion here (don't fold), but I have a problem swallowing arguments like...

"you shouldn't fold because you've already invested X% of your stack"
or
"I would never put in X% of my stack and then fold"

I don't see how the number of chips I've already put in the pot is relevant to a decision to put more chips in the pot or fold.

You are right. But, it's not so much that the concept is wrong, but it's incompletely worded.

Strictly speaking, if somebody else raises all-in (or raises enough to put you all-in), your decision is pure math. You put them on a range of hands, which may be numerous or small in number. You estimate your chances of winning against each hand, and do the math to determine your overall chances of winning. If the pot odds compare favorably to the chances of winning, you call. If not, you fold.

But, if you've already put in a large portion of your stack, then you are clearly getting some significant pot odds to call the remainder. And as such, you will not usually be that big of a dog, unless your previous bets/raises were done with crappy cards as a total bluff.

Quote:

For example, if I'm getting 2:1 to call but I'm only going to win 20% of the time, I fold. Always. Whether I've put in 80% of my stack or nothing prior to the current decision makes no difference.

Well, if you've already put in 80% of your stack, you're getting a lot better than 2:1 on the call now, aren't you? ;-) At least 9:1 by my math. And how often are you a 9:1 dog?

Your point is correct, i.e., if you're getting 2:1 on the call and will only win 20%, you don't call. But, you must have invested 1/3 or less of your stack to this point, or you will be getting better than 2:1 on the call. And usually once you've put 1/3 of your stack in, you're getting even better than 2:1 on the call.

More importantly, how often can you reasonably give yourself only a 20% chance of winning? Unless I've got a straight or flush draw with 1 card to come and am very certain I can't win any other way, it's rare where I consider myself to have a 20% or lower chance of winning.

Quote:

These arguments seem to imply that when you've gotten yourself into a bad position by committing a chunk of your chips you're required to punish yourself by putting the rest of your stack in even if you're not getting proper odds to do it.

Yes and no. Part of the lesson isn't just that you should call in these spots. The other part is the implication that you don't raise 1/3 of your stack if you're hand is such that you're going to fold to the reraise. That is, unless you intend to carry through as far as necessary, DON'T invest that first 15-80% of your stack in the hand.

Quote:

Would one of you please show me the error of my ways?

No. You're not in error. ;-)

Just read a little more depth into the advice. Sometimes people are in a hurry, and don't say it all.

Later, Greg Raymer (FossilMan)

Re: Multi-Table Tournaments - FAQ

Q. How should I play in the first hour of a low buy-in tournament?

Things to do:

1. When the blinds are low, and there isn't a lot of raising pre-flop, limp along with hands that can flop monsters. These usually include any pocket pair or suited connectors. However, remember why you are in the hand. You are not limping with JTs to play a ten-high flop with your jack kicker. You are playing this hand for two-pair or better, and if you don't have it, don't get involved.

2. Play your big hands very fast, especially pre-flop. The low buy-in crowd just HATES to fold pre-flop, so get their chips in early.

Things not to do:

1. Bluff. In the first hour of a typical tournament, your folding equity can be pretty close to zero. Your typical fish is not going to fold his top pair, no matter what the kicker, so don't represent trips or the overpair. The simple fact is that you are probably going to have to show-down a winner.

2. Worry that your stack is a bit below average. The $15+1 Party tournaments lose half their field in the first hour, which means that the average stack has doubled to t2000. If you've been card dead, don't panic just yet. The number that matters is the ratio of the blinds to your stack, not the size of other stacks. This is a marathon, not a sprint, and there's no prize for being chip leader at the end of the first hour.

Q. How should I play with a big stack?

A. Read this thread.

Q. What are the key posts/threads that I should read?

A. Everything by Greg "Fossilman" Raymer, eMarkM's classic post, and Pokerneal's gem.

Q. What does it mean to pwn limpers, and how can I do it?

A. Sossman and others explain the world of pwning here.

Re: Multi-Table Tournaments - FAQ

How can I use the tight-weak tendencies players exhibit on the "bubble" to increase my stack?

Re: Multi-Table Tournaments - FAQ

This will be much more useful if people just post linky linky.

[ QUOTE ]

And how about a brief description of the top books for MTTs.

[/ QUOTE ]

Tournament Poker for advanced players -
D. Sklansky
Championship Pot Limit and No Limit Hold Em -
TJ Cloutier & Tom McEvoy (also Championship Practice Hands/ Same authors)
Harrington on Hold 'Em - Dan Harrington & Bill Robertie
Super System 1 (NL Hold 'Em section) Doyle Brunson

Chief, Jurrolo, and myself are trying to get an FAQ ready for posting. Please feel free to continue this discussion by posing your questions and hopefully point us in the right direction for some answers.

How come no one ever spells my sn correctly?!?!?!?!

Ju ___ Rollo

I see, jurillo, juroolo, jurolo

It is Justin Rollo

Rant over. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

~Justin

Count yourself lucky that I can't edit Moderator's titles, or you'd have a new one:

It is JUstin ROLLO

[ QUOTE ]
Count yourself lucky that I can't edit Moderator's titles, or you'd have a new one:

It is JUstin ROLLO

[/ QUOTE ]

Haha. Or "Chief's Chief Chip Donator"

Re: Multi-Table Tournaments - FAQ

- How often do the best players make the money/the FT?
- Are non-NL HE MTT questions welcome on this thread or better suited elsewhere?
- What's the best way to approach a chop when at a FT?
- I suck at heads-up, can you help me?
- The converter doesn't work. Why?

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]

And how about a brief description of the top books for MTTs.

[/ QUOTE ]

Tournament Poker for advanced players -
D. Sklansky
Championship Pot Limit and No Limit Hold Em -
TJ Cloutier & Tom McEvoy (also Championship Practice Hands/ Same authors)
Harrington on Hold 'Em - Dan Harrington & Bill Robertie
Super System 1 (NL Hold 'Em section) Doyle Brunson

[/ QUOTE ]

aha!

precisely what I was looking for.

thought of some more

- How can I use PT to help my MTT game?
- Which tourneys have the biggest overlays?
- Which sites have the best freerolls?