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View Full Version : How to win at $10+1 NLHE Partypoker sngs (long)


AleoMagus
03-22-2004, 11:45 PM
Recently I was PM'ed by a player asking for advice on how to beat the low limit partypoker tourneys

I didn't intend to write any kind of huge plan, but I kinda just kept rambling on and on and had a huge 'plan' for playing by the time I was done. I have been thinking about it and perhaps I'd be wise to post it here so that you all can add to it, clarify, or even just point out where I am suggesting bad things. I hope this player checks back to see this as I am sure many of you will have valuable things to say that might exceed my own capacity for explanation or even ability to play.

Anyways here was my reply

[ QUOTE ]

The $10+1 sngs on party should be beatable with really just a formulaic approach. I myself was kind of a party $10+1 expert as I have played about 500 of them in the past 3 months. Perhaps there is more subtlety to it than I really give credit for, but I really think that you should be able to follow a straightforward plan and succeed at this level.

So, I'll try to summarize some key things.

First, make sure you follow the kinds of advice I'm about to give almost to the letter. Many players really want to follow advice, but when the time comes, they see AJo in early position and can't bring themselves to muck it. You really need to.

So, in the 1-3 rounds, play only the following in positions 1-7:

22-JJ (limp in, cold call min raises only and maybe not with small pairs 22-66)
QQ-AA (raise 3xBB, raise 4-5xBB if there are already limpers in the hand. Reraise any raisers. Get all-in if you can)
AKs,AK (same as high pairs but be carefull about calling huge raises. Any PP is a favorite against you . AK is a good hand to raise all-in with, but you don't want to be calling all-ins)
AQ,AQs (dangerous hands but probably playable. Still, I'd be inclined to limp. If you are not raised you can be reasonably sure you have the strongest ace. If you are raised, you really need more than just a pair of aces because there is too great a chance that a AK might be dominating you. I might muck unsuited AQ in early position to be safe)

In positions 7-10
Play AJs ATs KQs KJs QJs JTs also

Because you are in late position you want to raise if you are the first in the pot (3xBB). In fact, you want to raise with pairs 77+ also. If there are already limpers then limp. If there is a raiser then these hands are probably dominated and you should muck them

Levels 1-3 should therefore be played very tight. You aren't looking to make a huge chip increase unless you hit a big hand.

Levels 4-6ish

Open up a bit with high cards and maybe drop the smaller pairs

I'd open-raise the following from all positions

AK AKs AQ AQs AJs ATs KQs KJs KTs QJs QTs JTs 77 88 99 TT JJ QQ KK AA

I'd limp with a few other hands, especially if there are already limpers in the hand. Don't be limping with many hands if you are shortstacked. Maybe to be safe, just don't limp at all

A couple things to keep in mind.

If an open raise of 3xBB is 40% or more of your stack, then you should be pushing in. This is actually a rule you should always be following. Any time you are putting 40% or more of your stack in the middle, put it all in. This will get you a lot more folds when you need to pick up pots.

Also, be very wary of raises at all times. The only hands which should not fear raises are AK, AA, KK, and QQ to some extent.

Preflop, AK and AKs like to be all-in. By this I mean that it is much more valuable when it can see all five board cards, so in these later stages if someone raises but only a small amount, you want to be pushing in. If raised all-in I still might call in the later stages but you must be more cautious.

Once there are four left, you want to tighten up a lot

Never enter a raised pot without AA KK QQ or AK. The only exception to this is when the player raising has a very small stack and you can eliminate them without taking too big a knock if it goes awry.

Sometimes you will be shortstacked on the bubble and other player will pretty much be waiting for you to bust out. At these times, if you enter the pot, you want to be the first in and you should always come in with a raise. In fact, if you are shortstacked, you will probably be always coming in all-in. You are not looking to win showdowns. You are always looking to steal.

This is all pretty good advice preflop
On the flop:

In the early rounds there is a reason why you are playing all those pairs. They should all be played for set value (or overpair value in the case of the high pairs)

a great trap in the early stages is to limp in with small pairs, spike a set and then bust someone with it. Always bet the pot on the flop and a pretty standard rule is - if you are willing to call a pot sized bet, be the one who bets)

Only continue on the flop with:
Top pair (good or top kicker)
Two pair, sets, full houses
4 flush with some extra possibilities (overcards usually)
open ended straight with tons of extra possibilities (two overcards w/3flush etc..)

Beware draws. These are the kinds of things that will kill you in tourneys so they should be better draws than you are used to playing

Also, if you are going to play a draw it is wise to learn to be agressive with it. Semi bluffs are very valuable with draws in late position.

A good rule might be - Only play a draw when last to act on the flop, and then BET IT. Bet the pot and try to win the hand right there

Another rule might be - if the flop is bet really small (1/2 pot or less) then raise to the size of the pot. You will either be reraised in which case you are gone. Or, you will be called and can probably get a free card after everybody checks on the turn.

The turn and river should be easy to play. The flop is where you should decide to stay with a hand or get out

In the later stages, if the flop comes rags and the pot was not raised ahead of you preflop - Bet the pot. Players who miss will get out. If all cards are ten or less but there are two suited cards on the board and you get a call, maybe fire another shot on the turn. You will be surprised the number of hands you can pick up this way.

What else...

Basically just keep in mind that in NL almost all your bets should be the size of the pot. If that means putting in half your stack, then put it all in.

For a lot of my tourneys (maybe half), level 5 is usually what I refer to as 'All-in or fold' time

Basically, if you haven't managed to catch a fish in the first three rounds, you will be down to around 700 chips and with Blinds at 50/100 on level 4, that means a raise to 300 in order to get in the hand. That's a lot of your stack and even there I might just start playing all-in or fold.

When you are playing all-in or fold, you must be concentrating on playing aces and pocket pairs. I'd still be willing to push with KQs but hands like JTs are not hands I want to go all in with if I don't have to.

When you are the button, you should be stealing with almost 25-30 hands in the later stages

And again, when there are only four left, become very tight. On the bubble you should be really paying attention to stack sizes and you should fear anyone who can bust you on one hand.

Once you are in the money - well, I'll leave that to you, but suffice it to say, I loosen up quite a bit and start gambling a lot. I almost always finish 3rd or first and it's because I try to double up with three left.

Notice, if your money finishes are (say) 10 3rd, 10 2nd, 10 1st, you make a lot less than if they are 15 3rd and 15 1st

I hope all this helps somewhat. NL is a difficult game to play well. I'd suggest looking through some of the posts in the NL/PL forum.

Never ever do what Doyle Brunson calls 'Post oak bluffing'. This is when you bet a small amount into a pot on the flop. Even worse is when you reduce the amount you bet on the flop when the turn comes. Your bets should always increase as the hand progresses and if it's worth playing, you should be pretty sure you are the best hand and are willing to get as much in the middle as you can.

Your flops seen should be around 15-20% (maybe higher by the very end if you get heads up)

Sorry for kind rambling there at the end

don't become focused on recouping losses. That will only make you lose more. Be tight and accept that at best you will slowly turn things around.

If you do follow this advice, print it off and force youself to do it every tournament. Do not stray and keep at it. Play ten this way at least and see what happens.

Good luck
Brad S



[/ QUOTE ]

I have been tempted to change a few incomplete or badly worded parts of this, but I have left it exactly as I sent it so that you may all dissect it as it was.

Bear in mind that I know good poker should not be played as formulaic as this, but for many struggling players, a solid ABC type plan is a valuable step up. Try to keep this sentiment in mind (or explain why you think it is a bad idea) when you reply

Any additions or clarifications would be greatly appreciated
I may make a few additions/clarifications of my own now as well.

Regards
Brad S

CrisBrown
03-23-2004, 12:08 AM
Hi Brad,

A couple of suggestions:

[ QUOTE ]
So, in the 1-3 rounds, play only the following in positions 1-7: 22-JJ (limp in, cold call min raises only and maybe not with small pairs 22-66)

[/ QUOTE ]

I would recommend against a novice learning to limp in from EP with hands that can't stand a raise. Thus, I'd suggest that the novice muck low pairs from EP, rather than wasting chips on limp-folds.

[ QUOTE ]
Only continue on the flop with: ... Two pair....

[/ QUOTE ]

I would clarify that you don't mean situations where he has a small pocket pair and the board pairs on the flop. The best rule for small pocket pairs -- for a novice -- is "No set, no bet." Yes, there are exceptions, e.g.: if it is checked to you in late position. But in general, "No set, no bet" will spare him a lot of trouble.

Cris

Losing all
03-23-2004, 01:54 AM
Not bad.

I agree with Chris about early round EP play. I'm tight as a frogs ass to begin with, but until I see the first few hands I'll rarely play anything other than premium hands. Some of these things start out with furious raising, why give any chips away with a hand that can't take the pressure.

In reality I never limp level 3 on, and very little level's 1&2 (I doubt I average over one limp a game)

As far as the accepted raising amounts for NL, I'm sure thats the way to do it against sane players, or games with decent starting stacks/blind increases. Party 10+1 against maniacs and morons, with the crapshoot structure twist makes 3 or 4X raises with monster hands early a waste. If you get QQ utg in level 1 and raise 60 you could very well get 7 callers.

If they're gonna play it, they're gonna play it. Pop it 200, or 350, or push, it really doesn't matter. LP early game, 3 limpers to you a push will ALMOST ALWAYS get a call.

DrPhysic
03-23-2004, 08:54 AM
Cris,
Since I know you play both Stars and Party...

Is AleoMagus' writeup essentially correct for both?
Are there any noticeable differences you would note?

Doc

CrisBrown
03-23-2004, 11:19 AM
Hi Doc,

[ QUOTE ]
Since I know you play both Stars and Party...

[/ QUOTE ]

I don't play at Party, and never have. Sorry. /images/graemlins/smile.gif

Will that advice work equally well in a Stars $11 SNG? I suspect it would, and certainly it'd be great advice for a novice. But I would probably add medium suited connectors (76s-JTs), played for two pair or better, to the list of playable LP hands. I say that because -- from what I've read about Party -- the play at Stars is such that you're slightly less likely to double up by catching a monster and getting paid off. So those 16 hands give the player a few more opportunities to pick up a pot.

Cris

NotMitch
03-23-2004, 12:32 PM
[ QUOTE ]


I don't play at Party, and never have. Sorry. /images/graemlins/smile.gif

Will that advice work equally well in a Stars $11 SNG? I suspect it would, and certainly it'd be great advice for a novice. But I would probably add medium suited connectors (76s-JTs), played for two pair or better, to the list of playable LP hands. I say that because -- from what I've read about Party -- the play at Stars is such that you're slightly less likely to double up by catching a monster and getting paid off. So those 16 hands give the player a few more opportunities to pick up a pot.

Cris

[/ QUOTE ]


At Party I don't play the suited connectors or even small pairs from any posistion. The stacks are so small I don't like to limp at all. I have found that playing super tight works the best for me and that since I know that I will get paid when I hit for every chip I have I don't want to waste them limping.

If you folded the first 30 or so hands at Party you will have a stack of T655 and likely be playing 5-7 handed. If you can learn to play a smaller stack well this is a very good spot to be in.

I think I might play too tight at Party and I don't necessarily suggest it for others. But super tight play wins for me at Party at the $11 level and when I want to play suited connectors I play at Stars.

BradleyT
03-23-2004, 02:45 PM
The problem with Party is you start with 800 chips and the blinds go up every 10 hands instead of every 15 minutes. This doesn't give you enough chips or time to be playing the connectors.

BradleyT
03-23-2004, 03:21 PM
mind if I sell this on eBay for $15 a copy?

TwoOuter
03-23-2004, 04:21 PM
So, in the 1-3 rounds, play only the following in positions 1-7:

22-JJ (limp in, cold call min raises only and maybe not with small pairs 22-66)
QQ-AA (raise 3xBB, raise 4-5xBB if there are already limpers in the hand. Reraise any raisers. Get all-in if you can)

I've only been playing 10/1 for about two months, and have been getting killed with my big pocket pairs in late position in the early rounds. For example, after several limp, I make a 5-6x raise with KK and get called in 4 places. The flop often comes coordinated or paired, and my hand doesn't hold up. Lately I've taken to just going all-in and winning a small amount of chips because I'm tired of getting checkraised by J-6 suited who hit the inside straight on the turn.

This can't be the best way to play this. Am I just running bad with these cards? Thanks for any feedback.

NotMitch
03-23-2004, 05:07 PM
If I raised with KK before the flop, got 4 or 5 callers and the flop didn't have an A, my money is in the middle on the flop. The pot must be at least T400 or so and your stack about T700, why isnt your money all in on the flop? How is someone around to check raise you on the turn?

squiffy
03-23-2004, 05:24 PM
If I recall correctly AA only wins about .30 to .35 of the time against 10 random hands. Against 4-5 callers with better than average hands, I don't know what your chances are, but they can't be all that great. If you stand to win only 30% of the time then you can expect to LOSE 70% of the time. That's like playing Russian roulette with 4.2 bullets in the 6-round chamber.

Better to try to get heads up with one or two players for lots more dough, or take their raise money for free.

cferejohn
03-23-2004, 05:30 PM
[ QUOTE ]
The problem with Party is you start with 800 chips and the blinds go up every 10 hands instead of every 15 minutes. This doesn't give you enough chips or time to be playing the connectors.

[/ QUOTE ]

I just started playing at party (again) and it seems that now you are getting 1000 chips to start for the sit-n-gos as well as the tournaments. I've only played $50 and up so maybe this is for higher buy-ins only?

Prickly Pete
03-23-2004, 05:37 PM
Good post Aleo,

I think you've laid out a very solid blueprint. And I disagree with the posters that say not to limp in EP with small pairs the first few rounds. Pairs are the hands you play for. I think they are even worth calling raises that aren't too big, since you will usually double up when you hit your set. The potential outweighs the occasional preflop fireworks that force you to fold after limping.

squiffy
03-23-2004, 05:40 PM
Probably. I played $5+1 last night on party and only got T800 chips.

AleoMagus
03-23-2004, 06:35 PM
Geez, looking at this today I have mixed feelings

I wish the 'quote' function hadn't squashed it all together but I guess the meaning is all still there even if it is difficult to read.

Everything everyone else has pointed out is good. Yes, two pair does not mean with a pair on the board.

As for the issue of EP small pairs, I guess that will have to be a personal decision. I'm playing them.

I think that party fish kind of have a school mentality when it comes to limping. It is almost like when an early position limps in, everyone wants to limp. For this reason I don't think it is a bad play, and if anything, it's gonna make your sets goldmines. You will certainly not go too wrong by avoiding the small pairs in EP. I guess it's a tradeoff between the times you double (triple!?) up and all the other times when you get raised off your baby pair and are shorter stacked going into level 4/5.

[ QUOTE ]
In the later stages, if the flop comes rags and the pot was not raised ahead of you preflop - Bet the pot. Players who miss will get out. If all cards are ten or less but there are two suited cards on the board and you get a call, maybe fire another shot on the turn. You will be surprised the number of hands you can pick up this way.


[/ QUOTE ]

This is actually something I maybe should not have included. It has the potential to get weaker players in a lot of trouble, but the point I was trying to get across is that if you sense your opponent is giving you a crying call on the flop (the four fush draw) and no scare cards come on the turn, firing the second barrell will often win it. Again though, this takes judgement and I'm not going to try to put it into words here.

I don't want to say that moves like this are uneccessary because they are important, but you need to be very cautious when being creative like this.

Another example is when late in a tourney you raise preflop and get a caller. If the flop comes 369 with no flush draw, I'm probably gonna bet it. A big pair would have re-raised me preflop at this stage and there is no way most guys would call a preflop raise late in a tourney with carsd that that flop will help. Yeah, I guess they might have spiked a set there but I still think I'll make that play occasionally

Geez, Now I'm doing it again. It really is more complicated than my explanation and if you don't feel you have a really good handle on what your opponent has, don't try stuff like this lightly. It has a lot to do with your stack and your opponent's stack. If he has 3-4 times the number of chips you have, he might call this bet with Ace high or any two overcards. You need to be almost equally stacked and both in danger of finishing out of the money. If he is too shortstacked you also have problems.

These stack considerations apply to steal situations as well. If you are trying to steal from a guy who has way more than you, you need to be prepared to get a call. He's gonna be looking to bust you, and while this can be good in terms of getting a favorable double-up opportunity, you need better cards than you might normally. Again, same thing for short stacks. These guys can't always afford to lose their blinds and might call for that reason

[ QUOTE ]
Levels 4-6ish

Open up a bit with high cards and maybe drop the smaller pairs

I'd open-raise the following from all positions

AK AKs AQ AQs AJs ATs KQs KJs KTs QJs QTs JTs 77 88 99 TT JJ QQ KK AA

I'd limp with a few other hands, especially if there are already limpers in the hand.

[/ QUOTE ]

What other hands?

well, if I have a stack that will support it, I will play some of the unsuited broadway cards also, as well as some suited connectors. I want to have doubled up before I try this sort of thing though. Also, suited connectors (for me) really only means T9s, 98s, 87s. I rarely go any smaller than that. I'll also only ever do this kind of thing in late position, and then I'm likely to raise it anyway if I'm first in and think a steal will be successful

For a novice... Disregarding what I have just said is probably the best idea


[ QUOTE ]
if the flop is bet really small (1/2 pot or less) then raise to the size of the pot. You will either be reraised in which case you are gone. Or, you will be called and can probably get a free card after everybody checks on the turn.


[/ QUOTE ]

This advice will never apply if you haven't managed to build a stack. Otherwise, your free card would still be too expensive. Don't be trying this stuff with a small stack

...

I guess another point to bring up is that although small stacks are worth more and you should be trying to attack them when you are a big stack, don't get carried away. The blinds are rising all the time and if you stay conservative, party players will destroy themselves. Giving chips back uneccessarily is the best way to turn a big lead into a bubble finish. When I decide that I'm going to challenge, or take the challenge of a small stack, I usually want to make up my mind from the start that I'll push him in. This means playing good hands.

...

I hear a lot of people saying that TPTK or an overpair are good hands to lose a lot of money with in NL. Well, I guess this is true, but with party's structure you don't have much choice but to play them very aggressively.

Don't get me wrong. If I have AKs in EP, raise, and get two callers - then the flop comes AT9 and I bet the pot - If the next guy goes all in and the last guy goes all in on top of that to set me in... I'll fold

Still, don't be afraid to bet the pot with top pair, and as ever, dont be afraid to push if that is putting a big chunk of your stack in the middle

I'll repeat - This is low stakes part sng advice. Playing too agressively with TPTK or overpairs in a ring game or better structured tourney is a good way to lose.


I don't know what else. There is so much more and I keep thinking that one of these days I'll lay this out in a much more logical way.

For now, I hope this helps some struggling players

And I'd still welcome any additional comments, clarifications, questions, and now that I think of it - links to great ABC sng strategy threads

Regards,
Brad S

funkymunkey
03-23-2004, 11:03 PM

David BB
03-24-2004, 03:41 AM
[ QUOTE ]
So, in the 1-3 rounds, play only the following in positions 1-7: 22-JJ (limp in, cold call min raises only and maybe not with small pairs 22-66)


[/ QUOTE ]

What does it really matter if your pair is 22 or TT as long as you hit your set or fold on the flop?

[ QUOTE ]
In positions 7-10 Play AJs ATs KQs KJs QJs JTs also


[/ QUOTE ]

The problem with these and similar hands is that they rarely hit a great made hand on the flop and you will have to draw. Save drawing for ring games - you simply cant risk any significant amount of chips on a draw this early in the tourney. With the short stacks on Party the implied odds just arent there.

[ QUOTE ]
And again, when there are only four left, become very tight. On the bubble you should be really paying attention to stack sizes and you should fear anyone who can bust you on one hand.


[/ QUOTE ]

I'm not sure what to think about this. On the bubble is where I do most of my stealing. You need to pick your spots and take advantage of the fact that your opponents are being overly tight - that being said you should be careful about confrontations with stacks that are much bigger than your own. If you're the shortest stack you will need to take a few chances though, not by trying to double up but by stealing a few blinds. At Party just two steals at this point is usually enough to bring you up to above average chip position. If youre medium or big stack all the other stacks will be terrified of your all-in raises and wont call you without a really great hand. I'm not saying you should raise all-in with every hand though. I like to keep my opponents thinking that I'm not raising all-in with crap (although I am at times).

eastbay
03-24-2004, 04:10 AM
[ QUOTE ]

Never enter a raised pot without AA KK QQ or AK. The only exception to this is when the player raising has a very small stack and you can eliminate them without taking too big a knock if it goes awry.


[/ QUOTE ]

Hyperconservative nonsense for PP $10+1, IMO. Hyperconservative nonsense at $30+3, for that matter. This is giving your opponents far, far too much credit for their raising standards.

eastbay

TwoOuter
03-24-2004, 05:51 AM
NotMitch,

I usually play it like you describe. But when the board comes 7-8-9, or J-J-8, going all in seems like a losing wager. Maybe my bad run is affecting my thinking here. But I've seen so many coordinated boards lately, it's got me checking my pattern map for betting tips. You know what I'm talking about? Stuff like- Flop: 7-8-9 two hearts. Turn: Ace River: J of hearts.

unfrgvn
03-24-2004, 10:46 AM
Brad,

I think you've laid out a pretty good blue print. You didn't cover how to play as a short stack. Say you're down to T350 with the blinds at 25/50 and about to go up. I see many players who will call a T50 blind, call another T50 on the flop, then fold to a T100 bet on the turn. Now they are really short stacked. I believe this is all in or fold territory. I will push with any pair or any A at this point. Also, if I am in a hand and not all in, a big danger sign to me is someone who bets exactly the size of my stack. It has been my experience that they have the goods, though I will sometimes make this bet against someone with only two high cards.

Other than that, I have been winning the last two months at Party 10+1's playing very similiar to what you describe. I'm sure I fold too much (weak tight) and would get killed against better players, but I'm doing ok at this level.

Doug

Sandwich
03-24-2004, 02:48 PM
THANK YOU. Where do I send my check?

I printed out the strategy and tried it to the letter last night on a Party 10+1 SNG. I was chip leader after Round 4 and, after getting sucked out by runner runner flush and dropping to small stack, worked my way back up to finish FIRST PLACE.

You can't argue with results. My winning percentage with this strategy is 100%!

/images/graemlins/smile.gif

AleoMagus
03-24-2004, 07:33 PM
Perhaps...

I think that for novices though, I'd almost rather give this misinformation than the easily misunderstood truth. If they are capable of winning by playing hyperconservatively, they will eventually learn what other hands can call raises and when.

When I was first starting, my main priority was to establish a break-even game so that I could stay alive long enough to learn. If the average broke college kid tries to learn poker any other way, he's not going to get far before he busts out of the game altogether. If you are a rich old guy who can put in the $2000+ 'poker tuition' then by all means, get creative and start calling down weak raisers.

But yeah, you are right.

Regards,
Brad S

Kaz The Original
05-13-2004, 08:08 PM
"AA only wins 30% of the time against 10 people"

So 30% of the time you win $50. That is $5 profit per hand if this happened at the start of every Sit N Go.

In a ring game it's even better.

Beavis68
05-24-2004, 05:56 PM
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]

Never enter a raised pot without AA KK QQ or AK. The only exception to this is when the player raising has a very small stack and you can eliminate them without taking too big a knock if it goes awry.


[/ QUOTE ]

Hyperconservative nonsense for PP $10+1, IMO. Hyperconservative nonsense at $30+3, for that matter. This is giving your opponents far, far too much credit for their raising standards.

eastbay


[/ QUOTE ]

While I think nonesense is a little strong, I do think this is too tight, I would reraise all-in with probably 99 on up, and A-J and A-Q. At this point in the game, I really do not mind a coin flip.