Question re: Blinds vs. stack size in a multi table limit tourney

[Cigwin]

In a large multi-table limit tournament, maybe 500 players, how do you adjust to the increasing blinds? Early in the tourney the BB many only be 2% of the average stack while mid tourney (250 players) it may be 25% of the average stack, and late (50 players) the BB may be 50% of the average stack. How does your hand selection and overall strategy change during the course of the tournament?

[ohkanada]

Early on when the blinds are low compared to your stack you can limp more and generally play more like live play. As your stack becomes smaller compared to the blinds you should be limping less and raising and stealing more. Also at this stage you really can not afford to chase draws because your stack isn't big enough.

Ken Poklitar

[Copernicus]

Your gap should widen against similar or larger stacks, as well, being inclined to raise with about the same level of hands (assuming a tight intial raising strategy), but calling less often.

[CrisBrown]

Hi Cig,

It's not so much a question of the size of antes and blinds as the overall flow of play at your table and your read on your opponents' styles.

The size of the antes and blinds has a major influence on the flow of play, but you may find yourself a squeaky-tight table early, or a loose-aggressive table on high blinds. You might find yourself up against a solid player early, or be confronted by a maniac at the final table.

In general, the play tends to be very loose early in a tournament, when the blinds are low. The players look at the size of the blinds relative to their stacks and figure it's cheap enough to take a flop and see what happens. In fact, they're making a mistake; when the size of blinds are very low relative to the future bets, you should generally play tighter because there isn't enough money out there to justify the risks.

When the blinds and antes get bigger, people generally tighten up, thinking it's too expensive to play anything but the top hands. Again, they're making a mistake. Now that the blinds and antes are huge, they're worth stealing and you can be aggressive with more kinds of hands.

But the more practical issues are (a) how the table is playing; and, (b) how is this opponent playing.

Is the table tight (mostly heads-up), or loose (multi-way pots)? Is it passive (mostly limps), or aggressive (more raises)?

At a tight table, you will generally play fewer drawing hands, but you'll be more aggressive with pocket pairs and big cards. You bluff and semi-bluff more, because you're more win the blinds and antes when everyone folds. But you bet for value less, because it's more likely that if anyone calls you, they'll have a strong hand.

At a loose table, that reverses. You can afford to play a few more drawing hands, because with more players in you're getting better implied odds. But you tighten up on pocket pairs and high cards, because they don't play as well in a multi-way pot. You bluff and semi-bluff less, because with more people involved it's less likely your bluff will work. You bet for value more, because it's more likely that someone is in the pot on a weaker hand.

At a passive table, you're more aggressive. You check-raise or slowplay less, because your opponents are less likely to "bite." At an aggressive table, you're more passive. You conceal the strength of your hand by letting others do your betting for you.

Those same principles apply to individual opponents. Is THIS PLAYER loose or tight, passive or aggressive?

When a loose player enters the pot, you don't have to be quite so fearful, because he's likely to enter the pot on even a marginal hand. When a tight player enters the pot, you have to give him credit for a strong hand, and devalue your hand accordingly. With a passive player, you have to be more aggressive because he's not likely to "bite" on a check-raise or slowplay. With an aggressive player, you can trap more.

Finally, adjusting your play to the style of the table and your opponents makes it more difficult for someone to pin YOU as loose or tight, passive or aggressive. That adds deception to your play, making it more difficult for your opponents to put you on a hand, and more likely that they will misread you and make mistakes.

I know that's not the simple answer you wanted, but I hope it helps your play.

Cris

[Cigwin]

Ken,

I understand the concept, but here's my problem. I've only made it to a final table once so my experience is limited. I know for example when I get short stacked I need to loosen up a bit so I don't get blinded out. Near the end of the tournament where let's assume that stack sizes are pretty close and an open raise would cost 30% to 40% of your stack, are you playing ultra-tight here or playing your normal game?

[Cigwin]

Chris,

It's not a simple answer, but in poker there are too many variables so it's never simple. It is, however, an excellent summary and I appreciate you taking the time to write it.

[ohkanada]

"an open raise would cost 30% to 40% of your stack, are you playing ultra-tight here or playing your normal game? "

Neither really. Once you are in this situation you are down to 5xBB or 6xBB. You can't play ultra tight because the blinds are coming and once you lose a few more BB, you will get called down with any hand you do find. So you are looking for a hand you can open-raise or even re-raise and go with. Limping would be terrible. So any ace, pair, 2 big cards are probably going to be good enough to open-raise.

Ken Poklitar