Changing brake pads - need help NSFW

[CrazyEyez]

I've got the new pads in, but I can't get the piston pushed back to fit the caliper over the new pads. What's the trick? I don't have a c-clamp. I tried putting a piece of wood over it and rapping it with a hammer - the thing won't move.

Please don't tell me I have to drain brake fluid.
Edit: I say that about the fluid because I assume it's a big mess/hassle. If that's not the case, please enlighten me.
http://oseb79.free.fr/images/Stars/catherine%20zeta-jones%2001.jpg
http://www.meaculpa.ee/ajatapp/kaart/c1.jpg

Get a C clamp, do it right. You dont want to screw with your breaks.
Maybe somebody can loan you one? All you have to do is screw it back in. It takes like 30 seconds with a C clamp

You may be able to manage with vice and a block of wood, If you have one.

[BluffTHIS!]

All this is assuming as well that you didn't let them get so bad where the drums/rotors need to be taken off and turned, in which case you need to do that before putting the pads on.

[Meech]

Tis been a while since I did brakes, but...

- Ideally you should turn the drums/rotors every time you put new pads/shoes on. It's cheap, I'd do it.

- Somewhere there is a little screw to depressurize the brake system. Unscrew that, then the piston should move. Afterwards you need to bleed the system.

[imported_The Vibesman]

[ QUOTE ]
- Ideally you should turn the drums/rotors every time you put new pads/shoes on. It's cheap, I'd do it.



[/ QUOTE ]

That's a waste. Don't turn your rotors unless it's necessary. There's only a limited amount of times you can do it.

Of course, if you have a modern car you will probably need to replace the rotors before you change your brake linings twice, due to the fact that modern rotors suck.

[CrazyEyez]

Let's stay on topic, people. Let's pretend I have brand new rotors.

I'll look for the depressurizing screw.

[Alobar]

[ QUOTE ]
Let's stay on topic, people. Let's pretend I have brand new rotors.

I'll look for the depressurizing screw.

[/ QUOTE ]

dont do all that, cuz then you have to bleed the brakes....just take your lazy ass and go get a C-clamp they are cheap

[Bluffoon]

Try taking the cap off the brake fluid reserviour. It might make it a little easier to push the piston.

[HighestCard]

[ QUOTE ]
Let's stay on topic, people. Let's pretend I have brand new rotors.

I'll look for the depressurizing screw.

[/ QUOTE ]

NO no no no NO! You dont want to take that screw off because the copper crush washers usually do not seat back correctly, AND you have to bleed the system. If you unscrew that you might need to go get more crush washers, and you need to clamp the line to do that.

Go inside the car and pump the breaks untill the effort becomes very soft. This should relieve the pressure in the drum and you should be able to move the piston back. Dont forget to uncap the fluid resivor under the hood. Also, go borrow a c-clamp, it makes it so much easier.

HC

[CrazyEyez]

Ok I read about having to bleed the system so the depressuring screw is a no-go.

I did take off the cap under the hood. I will try pumping the breaks, and I will borrow a c-clamp. I'm just skeptical because I gave it a few pretty good whacks with the hammer and it didn't budge.

[imported_The Vibesman]

OMG. Don't pump the brakes with the pads out, the piston will shoot all the way out on you and you may never be able to push it back in. Get a c-clamp.

[HighestCard]

[ QUOTE ]
Ok I read about having to bleed the system so the depressuring screw is a no-go.

I did take off the cap under the hood. I will try pumping the breaks, and I will borrow a c-clamp. I'm just skeptical because I gave it a few pretty good whacks with the hammer and it didn't budge.

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, you could have a frozen piston. I have dealt with one of these before, if it looks pretty rusted then that might be the problem if you cant get it to budge. If its not moving as your pumping the brakes, its frozen. The only solution for this is to buy a whole new caliper and to replace that, it requires bleeding the system which brings us to a future post of "Bleeding my brakes - need help" /images/graemlins/smirk.gif.

HC

[Bluffoon]

what a newb. /images/graemlins/laugh.gif Dont worry the C clamp will work easy.

[CrazyEyez]

Alright thanks for the advice everyone. None of my neighbors are home so I'll wait to try the c-clamp. Or I guess I could go buy one.

Bluffoon - be proud of me for getting this far. It's pretty much the most complicated thing I'm capable of doing to a car.

[Bluffoon]

[ QUOTE ]
Alright thanks for the advice everyone. None of my neighbors are home so I'll wait to try the c-clamp. Or I guess I could go buy one.

Bluffoon - be proud of me for getting this far. It's pretty much the most complicated thing I'm capable of doing to a car.

[/ QUOTE ]

I meant no offense and I give you a lot of credit. The only way to learn is to get your hands dirty.

I am not handy just persistent and I have turned more 15 minute doityourself jobs into 4 hour fiascos. I see a little bit of myself in you : ))

[mostsmooth]

just in case, it doesnt have to be a traditional C clamp. if you have those adjustable pistol grip clamps (used for woodworking mainly i suppose), they will work too. i would imagine any clamp would work

[BluffTHIS!]

I'm not one of you young OOT regulars, but I don't think that you have posted enough pictures in gratitude for all the help that you've gotten.

[CrazyEyez]

[ QUOTE ]
I'm not one of you young OOT regulars, but I don't think that you have posted enough pictures in gratitude for all the help that you've gotten.

[/ QUOTE ]
Let's go slightly old school:

http://www.anna-kournikova.e-znane.pl/zdjecia/anna-kournikova.jpg
http://www.thenudecelebs.com/celebrities/anna_kournikova/anna_kournikova08.jpg

[BluffTHIS!]

That's better! Always give proper compensation for help given.