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mdlm
12-31-2002, 12:42 PM
I’m now halfway through the first six month phase of my poker study program so I though I would give myself a quiz.

I’d appreciate hearing back from you guys how I did on each question and what my overall grade (A-F) should be.

1. When he is behind in a football game, Brett Favre starts slinging the ball around which both increases the number of touchdowns and the number of interceptions that he throws. Is this a good strategy in football? Is it a good strategy in poker?
2. Some people have suggested that playing any two cards of the same suit is profitable. Why doesn’t anyone ever suggest that playing two connected cards is profitable?
3. What is the best non-pair hot-and-cold hand against 2h2c?
4. (Source: Turmel Test). You have AQ. Flop is KJx (no flush). How many bets do there need to be in the pot to justify a call?
5. (Source: Turmel Test). You have A5. Flop + turn is K985. How many bets do there need to be in the pot to justify a call?
6. (Source: Turmel Test). You have Ah5h. Flop is Kh5c2c. How many bets do there need to be in the pot to justify a call?
7. At the flop, you are first to act, heads up and need 3-1 pot odds to bet. There are two bets in the pot. Do you bet?
8. Hand A beats Hand B hot-and-cold. What is the probability that Hand A will be ahead of Hand B at the end of the flop?

My answers:
1. Slinging the ball around increases variance which increases the probability that Favre will win the game. Since this is the only probability that matters in football this is a good strategy. However, in poker this probability is irrelevant. Variance is bad unless it also increases EV. So this is a poor strategy for poker.
2. The probability that a flush will make it is greater than the probability that a straight will make it and a flush is better than a straight. These are two reasons why a flush draw is better than a straight draw and since the “any two suited cards have positive EV” claim is doubtful, the “any two connected cards have positive EV” claim is almost certainly incorrect.
3. JdTd. JdTd is better than JsTs because red ink weighs less than black ink so red flushes hit more often than black ones.
4. Seven outs (3 for A plus 4 for T). Probability of hitting on turn is approximately 2*7 = 14% so need 6-1 pot odds so need 6 bets in pot.
5. Five outs (2 for 5 plus 3 for A). 46 cards not known. So need 41-5 or 8 bets in pot.
6. Effectively 6 outs (3 for A, 2 for 5, 1 for backdoor flush or straight). 47 unseen. So need 41-6 or 7 bets in pot.
7. Yes. If you bet and opponent calls then you have the 3-1 pot odds. If you bet and opponent folds, you win the hand.
8. I don’t know, but this is a very interesting question.


==>

Comments on Comments

Ulysses disagrees with my assessment of Jones’ statement that when calculating the EV of a river bet you only need to calculate the EV when the opponent calls. Ulysses believes that this statement is correct because Jones is talking about the situation in which “you’re likely to have the best hand.” While it is true that Jones is talking about the situation in which you’re likely to have the best hand, this does not change the EV calculation. The EV calculation is always the same. You always look at all possible scenarios, assign probabilities and EVs to all of the scenarios, and then multiply and add. Even though you are likely to have the best hand, Jones concedes that you are sometimes wrong (that is why it may be incorrect to bet in the first place and you need to calculate the EV). Just as you might be wrong your opponent might be wrong and fold a better hand to a bet. Since the opponent is losing a pot in these situations while you are just losing a bet when you incorrectly bet, even a small probability of error on the opponent’s part will cause large changes in the EV of the river bet. Hence, this scenario needs to be included in the EV analysis and Jones is incorrect in excluding it.

Pudley4 makes a similar point. To summarize, the fact that you think you have the better hand is not what is key. Even if you are not bluffing and you think that you have the better hand and you think that you want the opponent to call, the case that I give above is critical to computing the EV. Obviously, if you were always right about having the better hand then the whole discussion would be moot. Figuring out the EV is only interesting because you might be wrong sometimes and just as you are wrong your opponent will be wrong sometimes. Jones dismisses this situation and says that your opponent will rarely fold a better hand. Jones simply makes no sense on this. If your opponent never folds a better hand, then your river bet is good if you win slightly more than 50% of the time (it’s slightly more than 50% instead of just 50% because your opponent might raise). Since he is assuming that you usually do have the better hand there is nothing to discuss. I’ve done some pencil and paper calculations and in some very reasonable cases if your opponent folds a better hand only once out of every 50 hands then you will do well to bet even if you have negative EV when the opponent calls, so considering this case is critical to getting the EV right. The fact that Jones ignores this case is an error.

Ulysses says that he doesn’t understand how I am calculating the probabilities. I am saying something very simple. The probability of being dealt QJ is the same as the probability of being dealt J7. When someone limps, the probability that they have QJ goes way up and the probability that they have J7 goes way down (you get information). When the BB checks the probabilities are roughly unchanged (you get no information).
So when the flop comes I have to be as worried about J7 as I am about QJ.

Dynasty correctly points out that a BB holding J7 will sometimes call a raise. In this case, the raise serves to punish the BB. I will still have to worry about J7 on the flop but at least I will be getting paid a bet to worry. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

Pudley4 notes that there are some 100% suck out hands, such as 44 and 56s, that should be called instead of raised in LP. This may be true, but the analysis is quite subtle for loose-passive hold’em games. Note that it is almost always correct to call a raise preflop if you have limped so if there are enough limpers this is actually a value bet. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif I suppose it just has to be worked out. For example, if the preflop raise often leads to a free card on the flop then this would change the EV of the preflop raise markedly. Also, the preflop raise might “psychologically commit” your opponents to the pot and get them to call flop bets incorrectly.

Pudley4 also says that raising reduces the ROI. Let’s say this is true. It still doesn’t immediately follow that the raise is bad. Maximizing ROI is not exactly what you want to do. If the raise makes you more money than a call then it is worth making even if the ROI declines. Here’s a quick example: A horse is going off at odds of 5-1, but you think the correct odds are 2-1. The more you bet the lower your ROI will be because your bet lowers the odds. Nevertheless, you should continue to bet until the actual odds are slightly above 2-1 because every dollar that you bet that gets odds of better than 2-1 returns more than a dollar.

On the flush draw question, Pudley4 says that there is a difference between value bets and pot/effective/implied odds and that Jones is talking about value bets on the flop while I’m talking about pot/effective/implied odds. I’m saying something very simple: Jones says that you need slightly better than 2:1 to bet a flush draw and I think this is incorrect in some cases. Pudley4 says that a bet on the flop that is called by three opponents is a value bet. I think that this is a good bet in virtually any hold ‘em game but it is definitely not a value bet. Consider the following thought experiment: Suppose that every time you had a flush draw and missed on the turn your opponent bet an extremely large amount of money on the turn. You would have to fold every time you missed the draw on the turn. In this case, using odds of slightly better than 2:1 (which is what Jones recommends) would be a huge error (definitely not a value bet because you are not making money on the flop bet) since those are the odds that you need to make the draw by the river. Instead, you would use the odds you need to hit the flush on the turn. As the thought experiment shows it is not the case that “if you can get 3 people to call your flop bet, you should bet because you will make money off those bets.” If you changed this statement to 5 people, I would agree because that is enough to hit the flush on the turn. Here is another thought experiment: Suppose there is no money in the pot and you will called by three opponents. Would you bet a flush draw? Maybe or maybe not. It depends what happens on the turn. The point is that 2:1 is the minimum possible cutoff and in some games it will be significantly higher. As I mentioned before, I think that the clearest, simplest, and most accurate way to think about draws is to calculate the odds that you need to hit on the next card and then make an implied odds type adjustment if you are on the flop.

Angelo doesn’t understand my logic. My logic is simple: If I let the BB check into the pot he will win some pots that I otherwise would’ve won. If I can get rid of the BB for free then I will make more money. I don’t know if raising before the flop actually does this, but that is the idea. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

==>

Goal Update

This past week, I spent approximately 21 hours on poker: 8.5 hours playing PokerPages tournaments, 7.5 hours playing ring games, and 5 hours on 2+2.

I did not spend any extra money this week. I have spent a total of $438.46 out of my $1000 budget.

An update on each of the four goals (which are to be accomplished by 3/30/03):

1. Read and study Jones’ “Winning Low Limit Hold ’Em”
I have confirmed one out of the three points I need to achieve this goal. The second and third points are pending based on the discussions with Ulysses and Pudley4.

2. Beat Acespade
Goal Completed on 11/5/02.
Over a period of 100 hours (3600 hands) I beat Acespade’s best lineup at the rate of over 4 BB/hr.

3. Beat Masque World Series of Poker
Goal Completed on 11/17/02
After playing Masque WSOP dozens of time I finally became the Masque WSOP Champion.

4. PokerPages 85% rating in one calendar month playing 20 tournaments
My rating got destroyed last week. In my last ten tournaments or so I only picked up one final table finish. Absolutely horrible. I now have only three shots left to his this goal. If I fail, that will be it for The Newbie. I’m very glad that I made this one of my goals. If I don’t have the psychological strength and technical poker ability to do this, I’m unlikely to be a decent poker player. I played a total of six tournaments and finished #52 out of 91, #22 out of 98, #28 out of 43, #7 out of 59, #72 out of 97, and #75 out of 102. I finished with a rating of 78.06%.

Kurn, son of Mogh
12-31-2002, 12:52 PM
>3. JdTd. JdTd is better than JsTs because red ink weighs less than black ink so red flushes hit more often than black ones.<

Please come play 2/4 on Paradise.

KrackedKings
12-31-2002, 01:39 PM
Yeh,

Have you not heard of the "red ink floats to the top" theory of poker? Where ya been?

If this guy knows the real stuff like these theories, he's ready for prime time -- not just 2-4, but 3-6, and even 5-10. He should go for it.

The red ink theory had totally gone over my head on the other hand -- and, as expected, I've suffered some severe setbacks.

Kracked

Glenn
12-31-2002, 01:50 PM
1. No. Brett Farve should not necessarily choose the higher variance strategy. Do you see why?

2. Ok.

3. If you are serious give up now.

4. It is not that simple. A queen may be an out, an ace may not be an out. It depends. You may have the best hand.

5. Again, not that simple.

6. Wrong again, you will have the best hand here a lot. Sometimes you will be drawing dead. You can't play poker like this. Couldn't someone bet 8c7c for instance? Or how about nothing?

7. "You need 3:1 pot odds to bet". This is really not how to use pot odds. You need pot odds to call. Sometimes you bet because you are going to call anyway, or you bluff because of the size of the pot. However, if there is $5 in the pot, your bet will be called, and you have a 1 in 4 chance of winning, you don't bet.

8. What do you mean by "hot-and-cold"? It doesn't make any sense??

As far as your other comments go:

Jones is right for the most part. Sure you can nitpick his phrasing and maybe feel really smart, but you apparently have no understanding of most basic concepts so mabye you should concentrate on that instead. Jones' book might not be the best, but he is no idiot.

"Note that it is almost always correct to call a raise preflop if you have limped so if there are enough limpers this is actually a value bet. "

This is so wrong it made my head hurt. You need to stop trying to act smarter than Lee Jones and learn the basics. There is a distinct difference in getting 14-1 and 7-1. Also, you are completely ignoring implied odds

You are not going to be folding flush draws on the turn in limit poker except when facing a couple of raises on a paired board (so not too often). Therefore, if you bet and 3 people call on the flop you are MAKING MONEY. You might lose money on the turn, but that is on the turn. On the flop, you also have implied odds, and you often want to bet anyways to buy yourself outs or maybe take the pot down right away. Enough with the thought experiments, you are just confusing yourself.

pudley4
12-31-2002, 03:31 PM
1-Good strategy for Favre only because a football game has a finite length of time. If he was playing in just one long football game that lasted years and he had the better team, he'd be better off sticking with his gameplan no matter what the score. It's the same thing in poker - if you're better than your opponent, keep playing solid poker, don't take chances.

Variance in and of itself is not bad unless it has negative EV. If 2 players both earn 1BB/hr, it doesn't matter whether their variance is as long as they have a sufficient bankroll to cover their swings.

2-Playing any 2 suited is not profitable. Playing 2 connected is even worse because you can easily be counterfeited or run up against higher straights.

3-JsTs or JdTd (I'm assuming you're joking about the ink /forums/images/icons/smile.gif )

4-You are assuming your opponent has a K. What if he has a J? What if he has QT? What about implied odds? I think you need less than 6-1.

5-Good enough if you assume your opp has a higher pair and doesn't have a straight or set.

6-Again, good enough if you assume your opp has a K and doesn't have the club draw.

7-No, because you are not getting the correct pot odds and there is the possibility your opp raises you.

8-Better than 50%, less than 95%. It depends on the 2 hands.

pudley4
12-31-2002, 03:37 PM
You're picking and choosing statments out of context to support your arguments.

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
The EV calculation is always the same. You always look at all possible scenarios, assign probabilities and EVs to all of the scenarios, and then multiply and add.

[/ QUOTE ]

But Jones is not talking about all scenarios. He specifically mentions betting to get a better hand to fold in a later section. The section you are talking about is "Betting when you think you will be called", not "Betting when you think you will be called or possibly get a better hand to fold". If you look only at the times where you think your opponent will call, clearly you must have the better hand more than 50% of the time, just as you state here:

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
If your opponent never folds a better hand, then your river bet is good if you win slightly more than 50% of the time (it’s slightly more than 50% instead of just 50% because your opponent might raise).

[/ QUOTE ]

So you obviously understand the concept. In this section of the book, this scenario is the only one Jones is talking about

pudley4
12-31-2002, 03:42 PM
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Pudley4 also says that raising reduces the ROI. Let’s say this is true. It still doesn’t immediately follow that the raise is bad

[/ QUOTE ]

True, it doesn't immediately follow that it's a bad raise (because you can get more money out of people chasing the larger pot, you can get a free card, you can buy the button, etc) but it's also not always +EV. It can not only reduce the ROI, it can actually cost us money. Here's an example:

You and 4 opponents see the flop. Here are your holdings:

You - 4 /forums/images/icons/heart.gif 4 /forums/images/icons/spade.gif
Opp1- 5 /forums/images/icons/club.gif 6 /forums/images/icons/diamond.gif
Opp2- A /forums/images/icons/heart.gif J /forums/images/icons/spade.gif
Opp3- 9 /forums/images/icons/club.gif 8 /forums/images/icons/club.gif
Opp4- T /forums/images/icons/diamond.gif 7 /forums/images/icons/spade.gif

Plugging these hands into twodimes, we find out that you will win slightly more than 16% of the time. Clearly this is less than the 20% that is your "fair share". This also means that for every bet you put in preflop, you are losing money. Since we are only getting 80% of our preflop money back, calling is usually better than raising.

However, we still play this hand because when we do hit the 4, such as with this flop:

4 /forums/images/icons/diamond.gif 8 /forums/images/icons/spade.gif A /forums/images/icons/club.gif

We now win over 75% of the time, and can easily make up the cost of the preflop call. Notice that if we make the board much worse (2 open ended straight draws and a 4-flush):

4 /forums/images/icons/diamond.gif 7 /forums/images/icons/club.gif T /forums/images/icons/club.gif

We still win 25% of the time. If we give Opp1 a straight on the flop:

4 /forums/images/icons/diamond.gif 7 /forums/images/icons/club.gif 8 /forums/images/icons/heart.gif

We still win almost 27% of the time.

pudley4
12-31-2002, 04:47 PM
I won't quote this section because it's too long.

In limit holdem (which is what we and Jones are talking about), your opponent will not be able to bet you out of the pot on the turn. You have 3 opponents, so there are 4 sb in the pot. You bet on the flop - even if only 1 person calls, there are now 6 sb (=3BB) in the pot; so if he bets on the turn, you are getting the 4-1 you need to call.

Notice that you are almost assuredly going to the river with this hand. The only time you might fold would be if 2 or 3 opponents called the flop bet, then the board paired, and it was bet, raised, and reraised before it got to you. You could very well be up against a full house, so you should probably fold. Incidently this is exactly what Jones talks about when he says "You need slightly better than the exact odds (of 2-1) because you could lose to a full house," not because you'll have to call another bet on the turn, like you stated in your last post.

When determining whether a bet is a value bet, you only need to consider the betting during that specific round. In the example in my previous post you can see that a raise preflop with 44 was -EV. However, a raise on the first flop (when the 4 hits) is clearly +EV. Does this mean that we should have raised preflop with the 44? No. it's still -EV. Look at the AJ hand - it wins over 30% of the time. Should he raise preflop for value? Yes. What about all the times the flop misses him and he folds - does that make it a bad bet? No - he still makes money on that particular bet.

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Here is another thought experiment: Suppose there is no money in the pot and you will called by three opponents. Would you bet a flush draw?

[/ QUOTE ]

You are correct in that it depends on what happens on the turn, because you don't know if you will have the pot odds to call. So in this impossible case, it depends. However, if you know you will have pot odds to call the turn, then you know you will see 2 cards, so you know you are 2-1 against making the flush.

Look at this example:

You (BB) - A /forums/images/icons/club.gif 8 /forums/images/icons/club.gif
Opp1(UTG)- 8 /forums/images/icons/heart.gif 8 /forums/images/icons/spade.gif
Opp2(CO) - A /forums/images/icons/heart.gif A /forums/images/icons/spade.gif

UTG limps, CO bets, you call, UTG calls. 6 sb.

Flop: K /forums/images/icons/club.gif 7 /forums/images/icons/club.gif 2 /forums/images/icons/diamond.gif

You can only win by making the flush. You will win over 37% of the time here. That means that for every 3 bets that go in the pot, you will get more than 1 bet back. The pot is already big enough that you'll be going to the river, so as long as Opp1 stays in, you are making money by betting. If Opp1 sees the turn and then folds, it doesn't matter that you might lose money on the turn call - you have still made money on the flop from him. That is what a value bet is.

You seem to be looking at no-limit plays (giving draws incorrect odds to call by overbetting the turn) when analyzing limit situations.

Ulysses
12-31-2002, 06:13 PM
I’d appreciate hearing back from you guys how I did on each question and what my overall grade (A-F) should be.

I'm not going to go through your questions, but I will be frank and say that you show a very disappointing lack of understanding of some basic fundamentals and logic after six months of study. D-. I'm curious. If you're comfortable answering - how old are you, what level and what field of education do you have, and what do you do for a living?

I did notice one interesting answer after reading another poster's response:

7. At the flop, you are first to act, heads up and need 3-1 pot odds to bet. There are two bets in the pot. Do you bet?

7. Yes. If you bet and opponent calls then you have the 3-1 pot odds. If you bet and opponent folds, you win the hand.


I'll let others explain reasons to bet to you.

I want to discuss pot odds with you, though. If you bet and raise with the intention of creating the pot odds that will make it "right" for you to call, you'll lose lots of money.

Take a 3-way scenario. You are player A. The pot has 4 bets. You need 5-1 to call. You expect Player B and C to bet or raise and call a re-raise. If you check, Player B will bet and Player C will raise. There will now 7 bets (8 counting Player B's expected call) and you are faced with 2. With 4-1 odds, you can't call. On the other hand, if you bet, Player B will raise and Player C will 3-bet. Now there will be 10 bets (11 counting B's expected call) and you are faced with 2. Your call will now be "correct" thanks to the initial bet you put in. By your logic, your bet is OK because either the pot odds will end up being correct for you or the players will fold and you will take the pot. However, what you've really done is make a wrong call "right" by splitting it into two pieces. This will lose you lots of money over the long-term.

Ulysses disagrees with my assessment of Jones’ statement that when calculating the EV of a river bet you only need to calculate the EV when the opponent calls.

See pudley4's post.

Ulysses says that he doesn’t understand how I am calculating the probabilities. ... So when the flop comes I have to be as worried about J7 as I am about QJ.

I did not say that at all. Here's exactly what I said.

I really don't understand how you come up with statements like that. On a J72 flop, you automatically put the chances of BB flopping a set or two pair as "relatively large."

I did not question any statement that BB was as likely to have QJ as J7 (though even that statement is incorrect - the BB is more likely to have QJ than J7 with this flop). What I questioned was how you come up with the statements that you should be "very worried" because there is a "relatively large" chance the BB has one of four specific holdings. Given a J72 flop, there is not a "relatively large" chance the BB has J7, J2, 22, or 77, as you state. There is a relatively small chance of that.

Note that it is almost always correct to call a raise preflop if you have limped so if there are enough limpers this is actually a value bet.

You have missed much of the point here. There are countless scenarios where it is correct for you to call a raise after you have called one bet but it is very wrong for you to raise. Here's an easy question for you to see if you're getting any of this - come up with an example that illustrates what I just said.

Ulysses
12-31-2002, 06:22 PM
mdlm: If I don’t have the psychological strength and technical poker ability to do this, I’m unlikely to be a decent poker player.

I think another poster hit the nail on the head: Enough with the thought experiments, you are just confusing yourself.

I'll say this. Forget about play money poker ratings and computer games. If, after six months of study, you don't have the confidence or desire to take $100-200 out of a $1000 budget and go play some poker either online or at a casino, then you are unlikely to be a decent poker player.

Fitz
01-01-2003, 03:19 AM
Ulysses,

The newbie's posts have exasperated me to the point of silliness. He is typical of many I have known in the past who consistantly over analyze things, and as a result, never get anything accomplished. I don't think our young friend will ever make himself into much of a poker player just because of this shortcoming. I don't blame him for wanting to understand things and have a solid grasp of the game before risking his money; I do believe he confuses and distracts himself from the truly important aspects of the game with some of his mental gymnastics. Mike Tyson once said, "Everybody has a plan until they get hit!" I fear the newbie falls into this group; the scary part is that, I believe, deep down he knows it, and that is why is so reluctant to get in a real game. The game, and your reactions, will change when you are facing a checkraise on the turn from an unknown opponent when the chips actually mean something to you.

It is only my opinion, but any intelligent person who reads, studies and follows Lee Jones' book, and spends some time at the tables learning the real game should be able to beat low limit B&amp;M and online games.

Just my opinion; comments welcome,

angelo alba
01-01-2003, 03:52 AM
Newbie:

You sound like a good guy but we're going around in circles.

(sigh)


If you have QJs and you think you should raise in limit HE in order to knock out the BB because he may have 77,J7, etc. Hmm... I dunno maybe we're not communicating well.

The thing is we're talking 9-10 handed game, right?
So what about the other players? As I said if you're EP it's a poor hand to enter into the pot except once in a blue moon to keep 'em guessing. And at that point, yep, what the hell, you might as well enter with a raise.

If you're in MP or anywhere other than the button or SB you're probably better off for now forgetting the (expletive deleted ) odds!
Pot, implied , reverse implied or otherwise. Focus instead on what the other players before the blinds will be likely to do--and here's a big secret-- most of the time you won't have the foggiest idea! Not you personally, I mean all of us, in most, repeat most situations. Ya take yer chances. /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif

And again, if everyone's folded and you are the button or the SB he might still put you on a steal...

Quick! what's the ratio of BB putting the SB on a steal vs the BB putting the button on steal? Is it 2:1 7:4? or--Just kidding, don't let this question keep you from losing sleep. . .

Look, if you're the button and you have ANYTHING that you think will make the blinds fold, by all means raise it! QJs sounds just dandy to me, for that matter so does 72o. Just please don't agonize as to whether you should limp with AA-77 because you might get more money by slowplaying.
/forums/images/icons/cool.gif

It's not so much the math, it's who the hell is playing the blinds. Get it?

I think this is one reason why everyone is telling you to play live money games. You may never be 100% certain but you will start to develop a feel for the opponents when you have that QJs or anything else that's marginal, and since MOST of the time your decisions will be marginal, it's impossible to know if you can develop the talent for putting opponents on hands or manipulting them to do what you want without actually playing against opponents

Is this too obvious?

Now as to your gloomy self assesment regarding NL funnymoney Pokerpages:

"My rating got destroyed last week. In my last ten tournaments or so I only picked up one final table finish. Absolutely horrible. I now have only three shots left to his this goal. If I fail, that will be it for The Newbie. I'm very glad that I made this one of my goals. If I don't have the psychological strength and technical poker ability to do this, I'm unlikely to be a decent poker player."

Yeah I know I encouraged you in my last post to play in the cheapest NLHE on line ring games you could find. Frankly, I think that was just my way of trying to get you into the real world. Forget I said it! Look, I doubt TJ, Chan or anyone else could jump into the world of funnymoney online NLHE and shine right off the bat. Poker without money is er, well...

Play for cash in low limit games. Then tell us in 6 months that you suck the big onebefore giving up. Until then ease up on yourself , POST SOME REAL MONEY HANDS YOU'VE PLAYED and, try to approach all this as a lark, rather than an engineering problem.

Good Luck.