WSOP Free prize Stud Hilo

[stud7champ]

I am thinking of going to the WSOP Stud Hilop tourney they have a new low cost $1000 entry fee event.
I play a lot of Party Sit & goes in the $10 range. Out of 6 i normally finish:
1st 1
2nd 2
3rd 2
4th or 5th 1
I seem to have not issues getting down to the last three. I have issues apparently switching to a high game when we are three handed. You have to play less low drawing hands and more magde high hands.
Can i get some advice on playing stud 7 three handed please.

[beta1607]

Due to the huge blinds relative to stack sizes on the PP SNGs you have to get really agressive when you pick out a decent hand. Try and bully a little more on the bubble when others are playing tight to build up your chip stack.

[stud7champ]

Good advice
Any more good advice? I am thinking of giving 1% of my earning in Stud 7 for the best reply posted assuming I go and play in the 2005 WSOP

[mscags]

Once tha antes get high you have to be thinking more about trying to steal the antes. Especially when you get shorthanded, you don't want to be limping in much, you should almost always be completing if your hand is worth playing because of the possibiblity of picking up the antes. Good luck

[BeerMoney]

In your subject you mention "Free".. what is free?

[stud7champ]

What is free is that I am thinking of giving the best Reply 1% of my wsop 2005 Stud 7 Winnings if I decide to play in the WSOP Stud 7 tourney

[greenage]

[ QUOTE ]
What is free is that I am thinking of giving the best Reply 1% of my wsop 2005 Stud 7 Winnings if I decide to play in the WSOP Stud 7 tourney

[/ QUOTE ]

In other words, you’d like to get the best “free” advice that you can and then “may” play in the tourney and then “may” give 1% away for free.

Glad I’m not in a position to give you any best “free” advice, lol. /images/graemlins/grin.gif /images/graemlins/grin.gif

Edit: Don't get mad, I'm just funn'in you.

[stud7champ]

LOL
I will give the 1% provided I play and get in the money lol

[Hauser_III]

Your post mentions only the $10 SNG's. Do you play many, or any, at the higher levels? There's quite a bit of difference in the quality of play just between the 10's and the 30's, not to mention the 50's. I've never played a 100, as I've never seen one with more than one person waiting to play. High percentage ITM and ROI at the 10's is fairly easy to achieve, and it's easy to fool yourself based on your results in the 10's that you're a very good player that's ready to plunk $1000 down. If you haven't done it, play a lot of 30's and some 50's, and see how well you succeed at those levels. That's what I'd do before putting down $1000 to play a tourney, unless you're just doing it for the fun/experience.

[Aicirt]

I play in Party sit and goes as well, and I also have my fair share of success. Here is a bit of advice on the late sng strategy.

Where many people falter is they get really tight late in tournaments and fold way too easilly. What most people do not realize is that on 3rd street, a hand like 234 is not that big of a favorite over a hand such as 9TK. So they fold way too easily waiting for a hand like 234 to put all of their money in, and when they do, they arent really that big of a favorite. (note that if a low hand contains an A in it, that changes things dramatically as well as a hand such as 678. However most people would rather put their money in with 234 than 678 when 678 is the far better hand heads up.) Find what opponents fold to easilly (hopefully they are sitting to your left) and then raise when they bring in. If they give you action, you can often pick up the pot on 4th with a bet if they dont catch well.

It seems when the stakes get large, most opponents try to wait for a good starting hand to put their money in. So you have to understand that if you raise with junk against weak players, you can pick up a lot of antes late in the tournament. And usually when someone gives you action, youre not all that far behind. You just have to get a feel for when the right times to steal are and against which opponnents are the best ones to steal from.

Obviously big pairs are always worth a raise if you have the highest doorcard. If you have a big pair but there is another door card that is after you that is bigger than yours, be hesitant to raise. Id rather raise with junk when I had no pair but the highest doorcard than raise with a pair with a higher doorcard left to act.

All this being said, understand that WSOP has a much better structure than Party SNGs and youll have to adjust your play accordingly if you do play there.

Aicirt

[stud7champ]

Started playing some $30 S&G have even better results out of 6
Wins 2
2nds 2
3rd to 5th 2
I believe this is because the better players are prepared to lay down their hands.

[stud7champ]

Thanks Aicirt, great advice as usual!

[PoorLawyer]

I think the most important thing in a hi/low SnG is to determine at what point you should start playing it like it is stud Hi. When it gets down around the bubble, you are much better off with a made hand to start then with a drawing hand in my opinion. Looking down and seeing JJ9 is better than 236 when it is down to 3 handed and the bets are big as with the low hand if you brick you are just tossing money away but if you start hi you are usually ahead for at least half plus when they brick what looks like a low you can hammer away to get them to fold.

[DeadMoneyOC]

Well since the tournament is a 1000$ buy in you will probably start with 1000 chips. This means the structure is probably going to fcuking blow, but I guess if you play on PP you are probably already used to this. Play A LOT of mutli table tournament to get ready if your going. I would make sure you know the structure before you go...You dont want to get there and have to start with a 10 chip ante and 25-50 limits with only a 1000 chip stack.

[Little Fishy]

if you play and lose $$ does the best reply have to pay you %1??

[Aicirt]

I found this on www.worldseriesofpoker.com (http://www.worldseriesofpoker.com)

The first round in the 1K and 2K events goes like this:
$5 ante
$10 bring in
$30-$60 limits

This does seem pretty high for the 1K event. Seems about right for the 2K event. So yes, I suppose the structure isnt going to be much better than it is at Party.

Aicirt

[Little Fishy]

I don't play stud or hi-lo much but I've been reading up on it recently...

as it gets more short handed you should start playing 3-card 8s, Burried pairs with a low card up, and suited paint with two low cards. Also with hands that only go one way, like wired trips, you probably want to string that third guy in so you have some dead $$ that you can catch at least half of. and of course the cardinal rule of short handed play, play looser and more aggressive.

I'd like to know if others think I'm on the right track just so I can see how well I'm getting a hold of the game.

[bigredlemon]

Rule #1 of winning: You can't lose if you never go all in. Make sure you have more chips than everyone else at all times during the tournament. As long as you do this one simple thing, you are guarenteed to win. Also, try to river quads as often as possible

[SuitedBaby]

As Aicirt has pointed out the structure in the $1000 event will be bad. I played the $1500 event last year and it was tough too. I'll be playing in this event this year as well as the $2000. So you'll have to settle for 2nd place money, cough, :-).

By the second level if you haven't done much you will have a stack of say T875 with a level of 50-100. You lost a few antes, bring-ins and maybe a solid call that bricked or so. Probably few will be gone by then and the average stack will be say T1075 or less. It would seem that you aren't in any real trouble but you are. You are looking at a situation where if you get involved in a drawing hand against an aggressive opponent with say a big pair and another low you may find yourself nearly all-in in the first significant encounter you have in the tournament.

The key at this stage is that you have enough chips to wait on the hand you want but the hand you want is not a big draw. The ante is only 10 and the bring-in 15. I know it is still early in the touney and it would seem like all you need is a big scooper draw to get things going. Looks can be deceiving. 2c3c4s can go very badly here if you hit say the 7c on 4th. I know you would take that situation in any ring game but here the variance may well end your tournament. Pick a better spot. Or maybe I should say pick a different spot. Wait and wait and play big made hands where you can be the aggressor. Let them draw. Any pure draw without an Ace is ill-advised, even three suited babies. These hands will generally be heads-up and your big pairs, which you gotta hate in the low-limit ring games, are your friend here. Yes, even this "early".

Just remember in this tournament it is later than you might think in terms of limits but paradoxically, earlier than you think in terms of antes and bring-ins. Adjust accordingly.

[Bartholow]

In tournaments you won't want to "string that third guy in", you'd much rather try to win it right away.

[dandy_don]

[ QUOTE ]
I found this on www.worldseriesofpoker.com (http://www.worldseriesofpoker.com)

The first round in the 1K and 2K events goes like this:
$5 ante
$10 bring in
$30-$60 limits

This does seem pretty high for the 1K event. Seems about right for the 2K event. So yes, I suppose the structure isnt going to be much better than it is at Party.

[/ QUOTE ]


Thanks for the link. I noticed this in the fine print at the bottom:
[ QUOTE ]
Players begin with $1,000 in tournament chips. All levels up to the final will last 60 minutes. Final table levels will be 90 minutes. Breaks will be every two rounds.

[/ QUOTE ]

[dandy_don]

[ QUOTE ]
Rule #1 of winning: You can't lose if you never go all in. Make sure you have more chips than everyone else at all times during the tournament. As long as you do this one simple thing, you are guarenteed to win. Also, try to river quads as often as possible

[/ QUOTE ]

...so that's what I've been doing wrong.... /images/graemlins/grin.gif