Bowling questions

[Dead]

So I went bowling tonight with some friends, as we usually do on weekends, and I bowled my usual 140.

I admit that I am a crappy bowler.

There were excellent bowlers on both sides of us tonight, and they both had sick spin on their shots.

I don't really know how to add spin on mine. I just throw it straight down the lane, and I end up with a lot of 7-9 splits, etc, but I am usually pretty good at converting spare opportunities.


Well for our last game tonight, I tried adding some spin to my ball. I walked up to the lane and I released it from the right side of the lane(I bowl right-handed). As I released it, I twisted my wrist 180 degrees and had my palm facing the lane as I released the ball. The ball was spinning around in a circle as it traveled along the right side of the lane. It did start to break towards the center about 5 feet before it hit the 3 pin. I found that it was much easier to get strikes this way.

So on to the questions:

Am I adding spin to the ball the correct way?

How does spin affect the speed of the ball? I have never seen someone break 200 in a game without having spin on their ball, and I've never broken 170 having no spin.

Comments from good bowlers(those who consistently break 200) would be appreciated

[Skipbidder]

You don't need "sick spin" to score well. It is easier to strike with a hook. If you don't have a hook, you will often find that the ball deflects off the head pin, leaving the five standing. This hook is only helpful in a few spare situations. Even without a good hook, you should be able to score in the 160s if you are willing to learn and practice good spare technique.

If you are inclined toward book-learning, Par Bowling by Thomas Kouros is pretty good.

[Dead]

Thanks for your reply. I can already score 160 occasionally. I average about 20 points below that and am good at converting the 5, 7 and 10 pins when I leave them up, for example.

But what is the main ingredient that I need to crack 200?

And could you tell me what a hook is? Thanks.

[TimM]

Dont hold the ball like a suitcase. At the bottom of your downswing, the fingers should be at the bottom and your hand behind the ball. At release, the thumb comes out first, then you lift and roll it off your fingers. Don't spin the ball, roll it. You will get some hook naturally. Follow through as if you are going to shake someone's hand. Dont rotate the wrist to the right as you release, or you will throw a reverse hook, also called a backup ball.

[Dead]

Thanks for the advice Tim.

When I tried spinning it, I was throwing it from the right side of the lane, and twisting my wrist to the left by 180 degrees. The ball spun all the way down the lane and then broke in sharply.

Ok, I think I have been confusing hook with spin. The guys next to me had a lot of HOOK on their throws. The ball would skate down the left or the right side of the lane and then break in sharply, but they didn't really have a lot of spin on theirs.

[istewart]

Dead:

I really, really hate your icon. Would you be willing to change it? In exchange I will accept $20 on Party.

Thanks. /images/graemlins/smile.gif

[Dead]

[ QUOTE ]

In exchange I will accept $20 on Party.


[/ QUOTE ]

ou want me to pay you if I change my icon? Are you retarded? Don't answer.

[istewart]

Yes, I do.

[Skipbidder]

[ QUOTE ]
But what is the main ingredient that I need to crack 200?

[/ QUOTE ]

Like most things worth doing, there isn't a "main thing" you need to do. You should be converting almost all your one-pin spares. This is simple technique. Consider missing one of these one pin spares to be like dropping a routine fly ball. You should develop a natural spare ball motion, and you should know exactly what to expect from it. Adjusting to different spares should simply be a matter of starting in a different spot on the lane and rolling over a different arrow.

The smartass answer to "what do I need to crack 200" is "A hook."

[ QUOTE ]
And could you tell me what a hook is? Thanks.

[/ QUOTE ]

A hook breaks relatively close to the pins. You want the ball to enter the pocket at an angle. You have probably noticed that if you throw straight down the middle and hit the head pin dead on, you will get many splits. You want to come in on an angle.

The short and dirty explanation on how to throw a hook is to start with your thumb in roughly the ten o'clock position (assuming that you are right handed). You do not need to twist your wrist. Your thumb will exit the ball first, and then your fingers will apply the hook to the ball.

Once you are comfortable with your "strike delivery", and you can repeat the motion successfully, you can alter your starting position or the arrow that you bowl over in order to figure out your optimal path.

[Dead]

I understand it better now.

Thanks.

[GuyOnTilt]

The technique you described is not allowed in tournaments. You need to use three fingers; no palming. I've been out of it for a while, but back when I was bowling consistently for a few months I was averaging somewhere in the mid 170's I would think. I've never had myself handicapped 'cause I seem to play off and on for months at a time, but I really like bowling a lot and would like to get back into it and be my handicap close to 200. I think my mental game would be a hell of a lot better now too. I need to go get new shoes and fitted for a new ball too.

GoT

[Dead]

I was using three fingers. What I meant to say is that the back of my right hand faced the lane when I finished the release.

[J_V]

No. You are using a plastic ball. You cannot score well hooking a plastic ball. You must buy a ball designed for hooking and have it fitted for your hand, so you can hold it w/out gripping it.


I averaged around 150 as a straight baller and switched to my own ball and averaged 175 right out of the gate. Seriously, get your own ball. All you have to do is drop it on the lane and it moves.

[DrPublo]

Really? I was averaging about 165 "palming" the ball, then. Pretty easy but after like the 4th or 5th game your wrist starts to get tired. The problem is that the thumb hole on alley balls was never where i wanted it to be, so I just didn't use it.

I think I need to get my own ball, that should help, right?

The Doc

[rusellmj]

[ QUOTE ]
You must buy a ball and have it fitted for your hand.


[/ QUOTE ]

If you're serious about improving, nothing else needs to be said for now.

[Dead]

What size ball should I buy? Must it be a 16? I normally use a 12. How do I know what weight is correct for me? I have heard that it should be 10% of your body weight. I am ~150 pounds, so would a 15 pound ball be best?

Do I need a 16 pound ball in order to break 200?

Thanks.

[MEbenhoe]

[ QUOTE ]
What size ball should I buy? Must it be a 16? I normally use a 12.

[/ QUOTE ]

14 = g00t

[Emmitt2222]

To add to J_V's post, you need a ball that is made of resin or urethane. I personally use a resin ball which goes most of the way down the lane in a rather straight line and then has a nasty hook at the last moment [hopefully right into the pocket]. Urethane has a slightly more gradual hook and the people who have a larger hook, like people who are right handed and start to the left for a big curve, usually use this type of ball. The process of throwing the curve has already been described pretty well here, you just want to do it like shaking a hand, especially with a resin ball. The only way to curve a plastic ball is with ridiculous hand movement. If you would like to continue to throw it straight, its much better to start all the way to the right and throw it at an angle toward the pocket and this will get better results. Remember finally that spares are the main basis for building a strong game and consistently getting over 200 so its not all about curve, although the occassionaly turkey never hurt anyone.

[Dead]

Thanks for the response Emmitt. What would you recommend for a relative newb: resin or urethane? I do plan to buy a ball when I get home from school in a couple of weeks, and I'll take it to a place to get it drilled for my hand.

I've liked some of the balls that I have seen on bowling.com. I see that they have a large selection of both types that you mentioned.

And what weight would you recommend for a ball?

I'm going to bed now but I will check this thread in the morning.

Thanks again.

[Emmitt2222]

I would definitly say resin for you, especailly since you dont have any curve yet. You don't have to go too expensive, but just make sure its not some crappy noname ball. In terms of weight you are going to want to go with what feels comfortable, maybe a little heavier. But if you pick the ball up and it feels too heavy or it stops you from throwing your normal shot thats no good. I am 5'9" 150 with not a whole lot of muscle and I throw a 14 so I think you could handle that pretty well, but if that is too much go for 13 if you can. Remeber to get finger inserts as that will constitute a large part of the way you throw the ball to acheive a good hook. Talk to the guy who drills your ball and he should be able to help you out some.

[TimM]

I found that once I got my own ball with a fingertip grip and learned to release and hook it properly, I could then take a conventional grip plastic house ball and get it to hook a bit.

Even if he just gets a good roll on the ball and has to stand all the way right and kind of point it at the pocket with just a small hook at the end, he will still be doing better than throwing a spinner. Spinners tend to hit weak and deflect, rather than driving through like a ball that is rolling. But yes, to do well you really need your own equipment.

As for the weight, you can generally go heavier with a ball that fits your hand. But 12 to 16 is a big jump. The guy at the pro shop will be able to recommend the right weight (don't go to a sporting goods store).


(I used to bowl in a house that gave unlimited free practice bowling if you joined two summer leagues. It was great, and me and my friends bowled an insane amount that summer. Of course we did a lot of fooling around like bowling matches with house balls, etc.)

[B00T]

First off

[ QUOTE ]
The technique you described is not allowed in tournaments. You need to use three fingers; no palming.

[/ QUOTE ]

This is legal in every single tournament/league that I've ever seen. I've never heard of such a thing before so disregard this statement.

To echo and add my own thoughts along with the previous posters.

1. Any ball you grab off the rack and plop your fingers down in will not hook at all. Look for those balls with the little rubber grip inserts. Those are known as "fingertip" grips because you only put your fingers down to your first knuckle. As said earlier about the release of the ball and getting the roll or "revolutions" on the ball: having your fingers half in and using a rolling motion with your wrist cupped will allow you to get more rotations on the ball with your fingers more or less flipping up to get the ball to roll more than if you threw it out of your hand with all 3 fingers at once in a flinging motion.

2. Resin balls hook more than plastic balls (which are in the bowling alleys) by a mile. A custom drilled ball will feel the most comfortable where the guy drilling it will measure your hand and make a relaxed span where you can maximize your accruracy and release. A good ball will cost you about $160 with the drilling included in that price. If you choose to by one, buy it in a local bowling alley where the drilling is included in the price. THe same ball in your local pro-shop will be more expensive than you can find it online but places will charge ~$60 to drill a ball not bought in their store. Go to the bowling alley one day and even if they offer a place to drill the ball, ask some of the bowlers who are good where they go to get their balls. It makes a large difference.

3. Get a 16 pound ball. The balls drilled with the fingertip grip feel lighter in your hand than the way you are accustomed to throwing it. If you are over 16 yrs old and weigh more than 120lbs there is no reason to get anything less. You can hardly feel the difference between a 15 and 16 pound ball, but 16's drive harder and will not deflect off of the pins and will continue on its path more than a lighter counterpart.

4. The inside of a good bowling ball or "the core" will have the weight block off centered to create a natural tendency for the ball to hook. Look below.

http://bbb.brunswickbowling.com/consumer/products/graphics/prod_secondary/313.gif

[youngndumb]

So what tournaments do not allow this? There were two different guys that made the TV finals on the PBA tour this year that palmed the ball.

[masse75]

Try this ball, and this form...

http://dvdmedia.ign.com/media/reviews/image/kingpin_ball.jpg

[masse75]

[ QUOTE ]
Go to the bowling alley one day and even if they offer a place to drill the ball, ask some of the bowlers who are good where they go to get their balls. It makes a large difference.

[/ QUOTE ]

And be sure to let us know how the ass-beating goes when you ask them that.

[TimM]

[ QUOTE ]
So what tournaments do not allow this? There were two different guys that made the TV finals on the PBA tour this year that palmed the ball.

[/ QUOTE ]

You have to use the holes that the ball has. If you drill a ball with only finger holes and no thumb hole, it is fine.

[WC64]

Yeah Definitely dont go to a sporting goods store to buy or have your ball drilled. I would go to the pro shop in your local bowling alley and look at different styles and ask for the help of the person who runs it. They will help point you in the right direction. I have bought most of my balls from bowlersparadise.com although remember that you will still have to pay around $50 to have the ball drilled if you buy it online, if you buy it from the pro shop most of the time it is free.

I am 165 lbs and have been bowling for about 8-9 years probably and I still only use a 15 lb ball. For some reason I am more comfortable with it. I use a Columbia Big Bully and just finished a 35 week season averaging 205 a game.

[nothumb]

[ QUOTE ]
You have to use the holes that the ball has. If you drill a ball with only finger holes and no thumb hole, it is fine.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm pretty sure this is wrong. I've bowled in ABC and regional events without my thumb, but most of my balls have thumbholes. If they didn't, they would have too much bottom weight and would be illegal. I think you're actually allowed to have a strangely large number of holes, it's just that nobody does it because it's not practical.

I used to throw a ball with an extra hole for the index finger at right side spares, to help me stabilize since I didn't have my thumb in the ball.

Dead, in a nutshell most of this advice is okay. The best thing to do is get a ball and have it drilled to your hand. You DO NOT need to get a 16 pound ball. A lot of the best bowlers I know throw 14 or 15 pound balls and score as well or better with those. They also say they are more comfortable and can bowl more games at a lighter weight. Many pros now also throw 15 pound balls - with how aggressive the new equipment is, you don't need it to be that heavy.

There are plenty of lower priced balls that are fine for a beginner, or you can always buy a used ball. I did not buy a brand new ball for over a year after I started bowling seriously. I was averaging 200+ with an ancient Columbia Cuda/C that I took off the rack at the house I bowl in. Getting a new ball is a good idea, and my average jumped quite a bit when I did, but it's not a prerequisite. If you're not looking to drop a ton of money, think about a used ball (they will drill it to your fingers if you buy it in a pro shop that has used equipment) or a mid-range new one.

You're used to playing a straight-up shot at this point and there's no need to change that. This would go perfectly with a moderately priced ball designed to have a reasonable hook. Some good ideas might be a Barbed Wire or Hot Rod by Storm Bowling, or something from the Scout line by Columbia.

NT

[J_V]

When the ball is fitted to your hand it's much easier to throw as you don't have to "carry" it around, it's an extension of your arm. 14 is fine.