Starting hands in tight games?

[MortalWombat]

Is there a website or book that has starting hand guide for tight games?

Would just sticking with the Group 1 hands on this site (http://www.lowlimitomaha.com/starting_hands.htm) be a good start? Can you, say, add any A2xx hand and any hand that has 4 cards from T to A in late position to this list if the pot isn't raised?

[djr]

first off...don't play in tight games! Why would you want to when there are many good loose games out there at most limits.

Second, yeah...those starting hands are basically where I'd begin if I was forced to play in a tight game. Although, I would not "play in any position for any number raises" with several of those hands.

[Yads]

You have to tighten up somewhat, but what the real key is that you have to raise much more with hands that play well against 1 or 2 opponents, but yeah don't play in tight games, unless it's full of weaklings.

[Moneyline]

To paraphrase Ray Zee: In tight games you want to play very tightly up front, and steal a lot of pots from late position. That said, I think there are a lot of A2xx hands that are playable form EP in a tight game (but there are still some worth throwing away- A222 rainbow being one of the more obvious examples).

[MortalWombat]

[ QUOTE ]
first off...don't play in tight games! Why would you want to when there are many good loose games out there at most limits.

[/ QUOTE ]Well, that's not much of an option for me (at least in live B&M games, which I prefer) since there is only one O/8 table in all of the St. Louis area (at the Ameristar) that I know of (unless someone else knows of any others). And it's populated by the same tight old guys every time I go.

[MortalWombat]

[ QUOTE ]
You have to tighten up somewhat, but what the real key is that you have to raise much more with hands that play well against 1 or 2 opponents...

[/ QUOTE ]Which types of hands are these, for example?

[MortalWombat]

[ QUOTE ]
And it's populated by the same tight old guys every time I go.

[/ QUOTE ]Well, I take that back partially. There are times when a couple new faces show up for a while, and the pots get good. Coincidentally, that's when my stack seems to grow. But then it shrinks back again when they leave and the table complexion changes back to tight again.

I guess I'll have to learn to decide when to stay at the table and when to leave and go play Holdem when it tightens up.

[Phat Mack]

If by tight game, you mean a game where it is heads up before or on the flop, I prefer two-way hands--hands with the potential to show down something for both high and low. I don't like all high cards, and have my doubts about an A234 being a monster.

It is unusual to find a game like this that it is lucrative, and when they do exist, they all seem to present unique circumstances. I haven't seen a game as such in a couple of years. I liked hands with aces in them, and hands with pairs and a couple of low cards. I was generally playing my opponent, reading him when he got dinked, then jamming and having something to show down if he got stubborn. Your's is a difficult question to answer in a general way, these are just some comments off the top of my head.

[Yads]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
You have to tighten up somewhat, but what the real key is that you have to raise much more with hands that play well against 1 or 2 opponents...

[/ QUOTE ]Which types of hands are these, for example?

[/ QUOTE ]

AQ3x, AK4x, KK23, A4QQ. Now I'd only really open with these hands from middle position and on, but once again you only want to play these hands when the game is really tight.

[pokerswami]

re. tight Omaha 8/B games:

In a tight game it's important that the rake be relatively low. Over the long haul, the rake can eat you alive.

Hands that do well against few opponents are hands that need little to no improvement after the flop. Think no-limit hands, such as Aces or Kings, preferably with 1 or better yet, 2 suits. The point is that you'll be more comfortable after the flop betting against a lone opponent if you don't need to improve to show down a decent hand. Get in situations where your opponent or 2 opponents need to hit the turn and/or river. Make it where they're counting outs and figuring pot odds and implied odds.

This is the opposite of the games that I look for. I want so many opponents in every hand that I can make a profit from winning only half pots. Sure, flopping the mortal nuts is great, but it can kill the action. I don't mind counting 20+ outs. Drawing hands do better against lots of opponents. Made hands do better against 2 to 1 opponents. In the games I play in, players constantly complain that flopping trips cost them money. In the games you ask about, flopping trips, especially top or middle set is great.

If you don't already have Ray Zee's book, get it. It's worth every penny, even though the O8/B section is short.
Steve Badger has a very helpful, but laborious to navigate website, but it is mostly about loose game O8/B.

[MortalWombat]

[ QUOTE ]
If by tight game, you mean a game where it is heads up before or on the flop...

[/ QUOTE ]Not quite that tight. Usually no more than 3-5 seeing the flop, with the players generally playing mostly coordinated, fairly quality hands, although there is usually at least one person playing questionable hands, but certainly not more than one or two of these guys at any one time at the table. They also tend to fold if the flop doesn't hit them for at least the low draw. I guess you could classify this as weak/tight. This is a 5/10 game with a full kill.

[MortalWombat]

Nothing to add with this post. Just seeing what I will turn into when I hit the 50 post mark.

Edited to add: Woo Hoo! I'm no longer a newbie.

[Phat Mack]

Not quite that tight. Usually no more than 3-5 seeing the flop, with the players generally playing mostly coordinated, fairly quality hands,

OK. Disregard my comments.