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View Full Version : Wine tasting in Oregon - a trip report (sort of long)


nolanfan34
12-20-2004, 02:36 PM
Since there are some wine buffs on here, I thought I'd report back with a few recommendations from the trip my wife and I took over the last few days.

For Christmas this year, we decided to spend a few days in the Willamette Valley in Oregon to do some wine tasting and shopping, instead of exchanging gifts.

First, some background on our wine pedigrees before reading my thoughts and reviews. Due to a relatively tight budget the past few years, we've mostly been in the $10/bottle market, and those are the value wines that I usually target in the stores. But we've been tasting in Southeast Washington a few times before, and also have been to the Willamette Valley in the past as well. So while I'm still developing my palette, I feel that I'm to the point where I can recognize a good bottle when I find it, and am willing to spend a few bucks more for a nice bottle to cellar for a couple of years. (Having a brother-in-law who used to be the wine sommelier at Charlie Trotters also has helped me learn about wine.)

Onto the report...

Lodging
I booked a room here (http://www.mcmenamins.com/index.php?loc=59&id=464) for our stay. We're big fans of the McMenamins chain of hotels and bars, and the Grand Lodge was no exception. The Lodge is a former Masonic home, which has been restored into a hotel, with restaurants, bars, a movie theatre, and spa and soaking pool.

The lodging is mostly European style, with shared restrooms on each floor. And the rooms are very early 1900s-like with their decor - meaning there aren't TV's in the room. McMenamins hotels usually have a lot of artwork, and this one was no exception. The fact that they're able to buy these old buildings, renovate and restore them, and somehow make them profitable is very encouraging.

Wine tasting
We headed out Friday morning to hit a few wineries. My wife had done some research the day before, and found roughly 20 different tasting rooms within a 30 mile radius of our Forest Grove hotel. Of course our wine budget was only about $100, so I figured we'd hit 4 or 5 wineries at the most this trip. But, it shows that you could easily make a 4 or 5 day trip to this part of Oregon, and have new wineries to check out every day.

Cuneo cellars (http://www.cuneocellars.com/index.asp) was the first winery we checked out. They're a small winemaker, specializing in red wines only. The owner and winemaker is Italian, so they had some unique red blends that aren't typical for the region. This included a fantastic Bordeaux-style blend from their Cana's Feast label that was slightly out of our price range at $40, but was a really smooth wine. Gives me something to look forward to as our wine budget grows throughout the years.

Cuneo had a wonderful 2002 Pinot Noir, which is the grape the Willamette Valley is best known for. At $25, I felt it was a bargain as one to put away for a year or two. We picked up a bottle of that, along with a $20 bottle of an Italian-style red table wine that will be a great partner to a pasta or beef meal.

Next up was Anne Amie winery (http://www.anneamie.com/html/about_us.htm). This winery used was known as Chateau Benoit the last time we were there. It was one that we really liked last time around, but it seems to be making an awkward transition at the moment. They have new wines under their Anne Amie label, but are still selling Chateau Benoit wines in the store. But they don't offer tastings of the Benoit wines at the winery. Strange.

Anyway, this place was a slight disappointment. Their Pinot I thought was pretty ordinary, and had too much of a tannic feel to me. My wife did really like their Pinot Gris though. Doing a little reading on the description, I figured out why - she doesn't like the "oaky" taste of some whites, and this Pinot Gris has 25% of it's batch fermented in stainless steel barrels. She really likes whites that come from stainless steel, and this was no exception. The wine was crisp and smooth, with melon and tangerine flavors. We picked up a bottle for $18. They did have a pretty good Pinot Noir Port for $36.

We hit one of our favorites next. Erath (http://www.erath.com/) is a winery that produces one of the pinot noirs that's available nationally. They distribute a basic pinot in the $10-$15 range that you can find anywhere in the US.

Visiting their winery though, you get the chance to check out their reserve wines that are hard to find in stores, even in the Northwest.

Their 1999 reserve Pinot was excellent, with notes of cherry and blackberry, and a nice mouthfeel. It seemed like a bargain at $19, so we picked up two bottles for gifts, and took home a half-bottle for ourselves for $10. They also had exactly one bottle left of their 2002 Dolcetto, which is a fairly rare Italian varietal for the US. It's immediately drinkable, and seemed to be a really fun wine for a pizza or pasta meal, so we snapped up that last bottle for $20.

Erath also had a great late-harvest 2002 Gewurztraminer. It doesn't seem to be available on their web site, but it was just packed with fruit, and of course a very high residual sugar count. The guy facilitating the tasting said he's even heard of people putting it on pancakes, it's "thick" enough for that. I agreed that sounded like a pretty darn good idea. In the end $20 for a dessert wine was a little more than we wanted to spend.

The last winery we went to was Laurel Ridge (http://www.northwest-wine.com/laurel-ridge-winery.htm). After tasting about 20 different wines to this point, my taste buds were starting to get worn out, but I sucked it up for 8 more wines.

Laurel Ridge appeared to be a newer winery, but they had a few hits. The winemaker himself was doing the tastings, so it was fun to hear him talk about his approach for each of the wines. He certainly was pretty excited talking about them. His reserve Pinot's were very solid. My wife liked the CMV reserve, which was fairly smooth and fruity. I prefered his Wirtz reserve pinot, which had deeper blackberry and spice flavors, and had more "kick". Both were $36 though, and out of our price range by that time.

We did pick up two bottles of a Pinot Noir Rose for $18 total. We hadn't seen a Pinot Rose before, which was kind of cool and made it a must buy. The winemaker described it as a cheese and cracker, or "hot tub wine", great for the spring or summer.

Summary and afterthoughts

Yes, we only ended up hitting 4 wineries. But we picked up 7 bottles for ourselves, and two for gifts, for about $140 total, which I think was a pretty good haul for our budget. I really liked Cuneo Cellars the best. I really love red wines, and across the board I thought they were top notch.

Some other thoughts from the trip:

- We bought a backgammon set before we left, which I had never played before. I totally pwned my wife at it, making it similar to chess, and Trivial Pursuit.
- McMenamins beer kicks ass. Beer on a nitro tap also kicks ass. McMenamin's Porter on nitro kicks the most ass possible.
- There were two random Euro-style roundabouts in the middle of nowhere outside of Forest Grove. Just cemented Oregon as the weird place I already thought it was. Fun to visit though.

SomethingClever
12-20-2004, 02:45 PM
[ QUOTE ]
Just cemented Oregon as the weird place I already thought it was.

[/ QUOTE ]

Don't you live in Olympia or something? Aw, who am I kidding. It is weird here.

Anyway, nice report!

ThaSaltCracka
12-20-2004, 02:55 PM
[ QUOTE ]
Aw, who am I kidding

[/ QUOTE ] no one /images/graemlins/wink.gif

Nice report Nolan!

nolanfan34
12-20-2004, 04:09 PM
[ QUOTE ]
Don't you live in Olympia or something?

[/ QUOTE ]

Heh, I certainly don't deny that it's weird in Olympia either. There are plenty of people here who wish they were in Portland.

IndieMatty
12-20-2004, 04:17 PM
Awesome post. Glad you had a good time.

HDPM
12-21-2004, 12:05 AM
Good post. We have been wanting to go on a wine excursion there, but haven't yet. Did you notice any property prices? We have thought of idly looking in that area. Might be good in the future. I noticed an ad for a nice home I would have liked with wine cellar in Napa, but we are several million short. Thinking willamette valley might be more affordable.

PhatTBoll
12-21-2004, 12:24 AM
Very interesting report. I have only been to Oregon once, and that was almost 10 years ago. This made me want to go back.

Did you take notes along the way or was this all from memory?

nolanfan34
12-21-2004, 12:50 AM
[ QUOTE ]
Good post. We have been wanting to go on a wine excursion there, but haven't yet. Did you notice any property prices? We have thought of idly looking in that area. Might be good in the future. I noticed an ad for a nice home I would have liked with wine cellar in Napa, but we are several million short. Thinking willamette valley might be more affordable.

[/ QUOTE ]

We didn't look at property prices. I'm kicking myself now, because my wife almost grabbed one of those For Sale books at the grocery store, just for the heck of it. I said "why bother, we're not moving there." /images/graemlins/tongue.gif

If you are serious about looking though, check out Forest Grove, Beaverton, Dundee, McMinville, etc. Those are all small communities that are remarkably close to Portland, maybe 30 min-1 hr for most of them. Yet when you're there, you feel like you're in some small town America place, hardly close to a big city.

That area is growing fast though, as Portland continues to spill out into the suburbs. If we had the cash to grab a piece of land down in that area, I can't imagine that it won't appreciate very nicely in the coming years. Certainly more affordable than Cali though.

I'd recommend an excursion there of course. I'd guess it's probably what Napa was like about 20 or 30 years ago - growing rapidly, but not overly expensive. For example, the most we paid for a tasting was at Cuneo cellars, $5 to taste the 5 wines they were tasting. But they subtracted the cost of the tasting from each bottle that we bought, so it was essentially free. Anne Amie was free, Erath was free, and $3 to taste 4 extra reserve wines. Laurel Ridge was $1 (?).

FWIW, McMenamins has the Grand Lodge in Forest Grove, and Hotel Oregon in McMinville, which we've stayed at as well. Fun places to stay, and the Grand Lodge was $50/night, which is pretty darn good.

nolanfan34
12-21-2004, 12:53 AM
[ QUOTE ]
Did you take notes along the way or was this all from memory?

[/ QUOTE ]

Memory. I had planned on writing something up when I got back, so I tried to remember the important stuff. More winery visits though and all bets would have been off...

SomethingClever
12-21-2004, 01:01 AM
Portland is very affordable and a great city to live in. I can't recommend Beaverton, Tigard, or those cities, however.

I bought a nice 3-bedroom house on the East side of Mt. Tabor (about 10 mins from downtown PDX) for 207,000 earlier this summer.

mike l.
12-21-2004, 01:15 AM
i enjoyed your trip report. i went wine tasting this summer as part of my aunt's wedding party in sonoma. i was pretty underwhelmed by almost all of the wines i tasted but im not big on wine. there were a few that were distinct though and i wouldnt have minded a bottle of. i dont remember the names of any of the places offhand. but i was surprised at how uninteresting a lot of the wines were, and at some places everything i tasted was like whatever, why bother.

going to trader joes and just randomly picking out wines that look interesting can be fun, we do that every now and then. you show nice restraint in not just buying everything that you liked at each winery. playing poker has warped my mind to the point where pretty much anything under $100 that i want, i just get it.