Pot size and strength of hands

[Kips Bay Kid]

Let's assume the hand you are holding is against one other player that is of above average skill level. Could you set some loose limits as to how much you would be willing to commit to a pot based on the strength of your hand? I realize there are a number of factors that come into play - let's assume equal stack size between hero and villain of the maximum buy-in at the table (100 BB).

For each final hand below that you hold, how many BB would you be willing to commit to your hand - again assume your opponent is of above average skill level and your position varies, ignore aggression factors of your opponent:
TPTK (non-broadway, rainbow board): ?
Two Pair (non-broadway, rainbow, non-paired board): ?
Middle Flush (suited hand, 3 suits on board, non-paired): ?
Bottom set (non-coordindated board): ?
Middle set (non-coordindated board): ?
Bottom set (coordindated board): ?
Middle set (coordindated board): ?
Top set (coordindated board): ?

All sets above assume you have PP to make the set,
coordinated means either 3 to a flush or 3 to a straight.

Not looking for hard BB numbers, ranges are fine. Also consider the starting table between full ring and 6-handed but no less in initial players, but for the hands in question only HU remaining, how many BB would you be willing to commit in total of your 100 BB stack to win the hand?

[Kips Bay Kid]

Ok I guess I'll take a stab at this, for simplicity sake I'll assume stakes are $0.50/$1 we each have $100 stacks, below would be my approximate cutoff as to how much I would be willing to put into the pot (in total - all streets) to take it down.

TPTK (non-broadway, rainbow board): 15BB
Two Pair (non-broadway, rainbow, non-paired board): 25BB
Middle Flush (suited hand, 3 suits on board, non-paired): 35BB
Bottom set (non-coordinated board): 50BB
Middle set (non-coordinated board): 55BB
Bottom set (coordinated board): 25BB
Middle set (coordinated board): 30BB
Top set (coordinated board): 35BB

Althought after doing it I realize it is a pretty tough exercise with the limited information.

[Che]

I think you are underestimating the value of sets.

On an uncoordinated board, any set is worth 100BB IMHO. I would need a very strong read to drop a set on an uncoordinated board.

On a coordinated baord, a set can still be worth 100BB *unless* the opponent has represented the draw all the way to the point where the flush/straight hit and beyond. I don't need as strong a read to drop a set on a coordinated board, but I still don't often do it. I try to keep the pot small, but you can't fold every time a scare card hits the turn or river and someone bets.

The biggest problem with the exercise, however, is that we have no idea what the preflop and flop action was before the board became coordinated.

TPTK could be worth a lot on one coordinated board while a middle flush would be worthless on another coordinated board. But now that you've done the exercise yourself, you've probably already figured this out.

Later,
Che

[Kips Bay Kid]

You are probably right, but I offer this example to you:

Hero holds 2/images/graemlins/club.gif 2/images/graemlins/spade.gif and are seated on the Button

(6 SB - $3.00) - 2 Players
Flop: K/images/graemlins/spade.gif 7/images/graemlins/diamond.gif 2/images/graemlins/heart.gif
MP1 bets $3.00, Hero calls

(9 BB - $9.00)
Turn: T/images/graemlins/club.gif
MP1 bets $9.00, Hero raises to $27.00, MP1 calls $18.00

(63 BB - $63.00)
River: 4/images/graemlins/spade.gif
MP1 bets $63.00 and is all in, Hero ...?

[schwza]

you wouldn't happily call here? man, you play in some tough games.

[Kips Bay Kid]

[ QUOTE ]
you wouldn't happily call here? man, you play in some tough games.

[/ QUOTE ]

The thing that bothers me is that my opponent is an above average player, if he sees me playing this hand strongly on the Turn, and then bets strongly into me wouldn't you suspect something stronger then two pair? I am trying to justify not putting all of your chips into the pot whenever you have bottom set, but maybe there is case to always want to get all-in on uncoordinated boards regardless of the skill level of your opponent?

[jtr]

Wow, I can only echo the previous poster: I would be putting all my chips in very happily with that set of twos. I've never seen an opponent at Party $50 and $100 NL games against whom this would be a mistake. Sure, you might lose to set over set, but an awful lot of the time you're going to be good here.