how much is enough for 15-30

would 500 be too little to start with if playing very tight? I know the requirement(recommended) for buy-in is 40 times the minimum but I have played VERY succesfully 5-10 starting with 100 and 10-20 with 200. Any thoughts.


The ante structure is 2.00 ante 5.00 force(foxwoods)


Thanks a bunch


-B

15-30 I always buy in for a rack of reds,10-20 I also buy in for a rack.I think A BIG BIG mistake is to buy short.....

HERB


so you buy in for 500 for both 15-30 AND 10-20.


So your answer to my question is yes 500 is enough for 15-30. Right?


Thanks

500 is an ok buy in as long as you have more to go to. you are dealing with a completely different game in terms of bankroll from 15-30 and 5-10.


if you play 10-20 with only 200 then you are extremely lucky. every session i play there is a hand where i will put 150 in on one hand. of course if you have more in your pocket then it doesnt matter as long as you dont go all in.


Pat

Pat,


what would you consider a buy-in for 15-30? since 500 is ok I assume I can play with this amount but how much lets say would you buy in for or have available?


Thanks for your help.


-B


I ask because I am going to be staked by a friend to play 15-30 using the if I win we go 50/50 and if I lose he will eat it.

$500 is a pretty typical initial buy-in for $15/30. I usually buy in for $800 or so, but I really hate re-buying, and I feel skittish if I have less than $300 or so in front of me in a game of that size. If you really only have $500 to gamble with, play $5/10 or maybe $10/20. Well, if the $15/30 game is really juicy, you can play. Just realize that there is a very good chance that you will lose that $500, no matter how big an edge you have in that game. I usually play $30/60 stud/8, and I bring $4000 with me. I've never bought in for more than about $2500, but I find it reassuring not to have my case money on the table.

" bust out" of your 100 in 5-10 game??

If so,did u re-buy or did u pack it in?

If u never "bust out",how many total No. of hours have u played 5-10 so far??

Just wondering,

Sitting Bull

A reasonable buy for stud would be about 20BB's. For Hold'em and Omaha U need about 40BB's.


Happy pokering,

Sitting Bull

Larry,Larry,Larry,


I am curious as to why you think you need TWICE the buy-in for Hold'Em or Omaha than in a stud game; Considering that there is one less round of betting in a (typical) flop game?


CJ


P.S. - I am personally inclined to buy in for as much as possible for any game. People have seen me make some rather large buy-ins. ( especially at Casinos where cash doesn't play )

Larry,


I have usually done both at 5-10 but mostly I can play with ONLY the 100. I have put in about 200 hours of 5-10 and this is just a way I have gone about it and my win rate is exceptionally high. I usually play really tight until I get a big hand and get ahead and then start to loosen up a tad once I have won more money to play with and this system has worked pefectly. now i know 15-30 is completly different but i was just wondering the minimum buy I should have. So what you are saying is I should use at least 600 to start.


Thanks


-B

I have put in many hours at 15-30 at FW and I can tell you a $7-800 swing would not be what I call and extraordinary event and a $500 swing would be common. Personally I think $1,000 is borderline but would be o.k.

figure is accurate if U do not want to play like a "scare money" player.

The 600 figure is the absolute min for a "shot".

However,if U are playing as tight as U describe,the 15-30 players will adjust to your play and will make some "moves' against your "short stack "and your tight play. U will receive very little action when U come in unless an opponent has a very good potential hand.

I would need at least a 1K buy-in for a one shot attempt at the 15-30 game.

I would have to make occasional stands with my decent cards even if I believe that I'm beat;

otherwise,these players would run all over me like a bulldozer. That's the reason Y I would not be able to play "short stack".

"Short stack" players are too vulnerable to pure bluffs and semi-bluffs. They not only lay down potential winning hands,they do not carry their hands as far as they should--considering the size of the pot.

They are more focused on protecting their "short stack" then in continuing to play some good potential winning hands.

One should NOT BE at such a psychological disadvantage when playing poker.


Happy pokering,


Sitting Bull

given yourself a psychological edge by buying in for "many chips" instead of the min buy-in.

U never know when U will have a locked hand against an opponent who has a cinched hand and will give up whatever he has in front of him.


A few months ago while I was playing , I had a cinch hand of K's full while my opponent had a lock of A's full.

Lucky for me,he went ALL IN . I was willing to give up ALL my chips with my cinch hand.

This happened TWICE within a span of two weeks when my other opponent had a lock of quads against my cinch of K's full again.

He too went ALL in. Again,I was prepared to dump everything in front of me.

I did not know either opponent--so they were 'strangers" to me.

I felt like a winner both times because I "saved" a lot of chips(LOL!).


Usually in a flop game the action is more loose and aggressive than in a stud game.

Hence,the varience is usually greater, so U will usually need about twice as many chips to play comfortably in the flop games--especially in Omaha where the pre-flop action can be really aggressive.

Ps I see U eye-balling my red beans and rice! Get yourself a doggie-bag on your way out(LOL!).

Happy pokering,

Sitting Bull

is also applicable to "stud' when playing "short stack".

See his post on "hold'em" section.


Sitting Bull

Awesome thanks to everyone who gave their suggestions. i think I will start at 10-20 and then move up if I make enough to warrant it. I consider myself a strong player but would not want the dissadvantage of a short stack. I will let you all know the results. hel I may even be able to get a 1000 stake from my friend he has it and is willing to back me. thanks again!


-B

The last time I bought into a 15-30 game, it was for $1500, and I don't think that particular buy-in was anything spectacular. ( At that time though I did see something humorous, I saw a young gentleman buy-in the 15-30 game with about $20000. Yes, twenty-thousand. Apparantly he was waiting for a $200-400 mix to get going /images/smile.gif )


Anywhoo, back to my original point. I constantly see smaller stacks ( in all games ) get picked on by the large stacks. So how do you avoid this? Don't put yourself in that situation.


CJ

Forgive me if I repeat something, bu tif you play super tight, it would help to buy in large. When someone is new to a limit, and buys in small, this usually means they will play very tight.


For this reason, I would buy in large, unless you are prepared to steal and trap all day with the better players at the 15-30. If you can turn their "knowledge" against them, go for it. But this is not easy to do, and you probably lack the experience for it.


So, I'd buy if for 900 or 1k, or whatever all the others buy in for if there's a common amount.


Good luck.


Dan Z.