PDA

View Full Version : Proper hand selection for 6 max NL


Vannek
09-15-2004, 10:17 AM
I`m thinking about giving six max a shot, I`m wondering how does it differ from full table, here is some questions.
1)All pairs from all positions?
2)TT+ raise from all positions?
3)Limp with Suited aces MP-LP?What about against a raise?
4)What about the `danger hands` from full table, QJ, KJ, KQ, A10, etc
5)What kind of hands should be avoided from SB-MP?

Thanks

amoeba
09-15-2004, 11:01 AM
sounds about right although highly table dependent.

Wayfare
09-15-2004, 12:57 PM
1: Yes unless facing a large raise or on super agro table.
2: Yes, maybe think about limping the TT+ UTG, especially if someone is agro without values. Remember that limp-reraising TT means you are going all in (obviously not right off the bat, but usually unless the flop is really bad you will get deep by the end of the flop) if you are on the standard PP stack.
3: These don't pay off as well as you think because of the small stack and low initial buy in. If you and a loosey are deep, go to town.
4: Limp a lot, if you think you can outplay them. Especially with position.
5: I limp lots in SB: anything suited, anything connected, any two high cards. I don't like J2 or Q3 or crap like that. Not worth a bet. In MP hand standards all depend on how agro the table is and how deep everyone is.

This is at $25 and $50 PP 6-max. I have about 12k experience on those.

ScottTheFish
09-15-2004, 02:15 PM
That is close to what I play, FWIW. Table dependent of course. If I have 22 vs. a raise, I will normally muck it, but there are a lot of aggro knuckleheads who will pay me off with their whole stack if I hit my set, so obviously I'll call them.

I see a lot of flops because i feel I can usually outplay my opponents after the flop, and I'll make some loose calls against people who will pay me off big when I make my hand.

Suited Aces I struggle with...it's hard to know how hard to push when you pair your ace, although top pair weak kicker will hold up more in 6 max than a full table obviously. I'll imp from MP or LP. Against a raise I don't like Axs...My ace is likely dominated and I will usually be facing a pot size bet on the flop, killing my flush chasing odds.

DrPublo
09-15-2004, 04:30 PM
Suited aces are generally OK if A8s or better...offsuit aces arent worth playing unless ATo or better.

Lately I've been experimenting with limping TT and JJ from all positions and letting someone catch top pair on a board of unders (8xx, 9xx, etc) and bluff their chips off to me. Seems to work at 100NL but you have to be willing to muck the flop if its not to your liking.

The Doc

tripdad
09-15-2004, 04:43 PM
the only change needed is very simple. play UTG as you would from early middle position of a full ring, and so on. obviously, the CO and button play will not change.

you are simply just closer to the button with less players to act behind you from UTG and EP of 6-max game compared to 10 player game.

cheers!

amoeba
09-15-2004, 04:50 PM
[ QUOTE ]
Suited aces are generally OK if A8s or better...offsuit aces arent worth playing unless ATo or better.





[/ QUOTE ]

Why would you advocate playing A8s but not A5s or A4s? At least those have a small straight value.

If an A comes on a rainbow board and you hold A8, are you really confident in your kicker?

If you are going to limp with AXs, you should only limp for the implied value of getting your nut flush and others having a lower flush. Thus whether you have A8s or A2s really doesn't make a difference.

tripdad
09-15-2004, 05:27 PM
A8 does have more high card value than A7 or under. not that you want to go to war with A8, but you simply will win with it more often than you will with A2 thru A7.

cheers!

amoeba
09-15-2004, 06:26 PM
[ QUOTE ]
A8 does have more high card value than A7 or under. not that you want to go to war with A8, but you simply will win with it more often than you will with A2 thru A7.

cheers!

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm not saying A8 doesn't have more value. I'm saying that if you are limping with A9s, A8s, you should also limp in with A2s to A7s as the value of these hands comes from getting a nut flush and not from getting your A paired up.

now it is true that there is the slight advantage of A8, A9 flopping an 8 high or 9 high flop. But I find that advantage equal to the small straight potential you have with A2 through A5.

tripdad
09-15-2004, 06:33 PM
[ QUOTE ]
I'm not saying A8 doesn't have more value. I'm saying that if you are limping with A9s, A8s, you should also limp in with A2s to A7s as the value of these hands comes from getting a nut flush and not from getting your A paired up.

[/ QUOTE ]

well, you shouldn't limp with ANY of them in a 6-max game. you are right when you say most of the value comes from the nut flush. you are wrong when you say "not from getting your Ace paired up". there IS value with an Ace high board when you hold A8 or better...much more so than with A2.



[ QUOTE ]
now it is true that there is the slight advantage of A8, A9 flopping an 8 high or 9 high flop. But I find that advantage equal to the small straight potential you have with A2 through A5.

[/ QUOTE ]

the small straight potential should largely be ignored. you shouldn't be tempted to play the A7 or lower unless you are first in from the button...where you should raise with it against all but the loosest blind defenders.

cheers!

amoeba
09-15-2004, 06:43 PM
[ QUOTE ]

well, you shouldn't limp with ANY of them in a 6-max game. you are right when you say most of the value comes from the nut flush. you are wrong when you say "not from getting your Ace paired up". there IS value with an Ace high board when you hold A8 or better...much more so than with A2.


[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, A8 is better than A2 when you have an Ace high board.

Having said that. My point was, when you limp in with AXs in mp or lp (the only positions that you should probably play AXs) , your flush doesn't hit but on the board is an Ace and somebody makes a 1/2pot to potsized bet, you are probably folding your hand regardless of whether you hold A8 or A2.

I agree that the straight potential is low. My point was that its about as low as you getting an 8 high or 9 high non connected flop that give you TPTK with A8 or A9.

fimbulwinter
09-16-2004, 12:07 AM
[ QUOTE ]
I`m thinking about giving six max a shot, I`m wondering how does it differ from full table, here is some questions.
1)All pairs from all positions?
2)TT+ raise from all positions?
3)Limp with Suited aces MP-LP?What about against a raise?
4)What about the `danger hands` from full table, QJ, KJ, KQ, A10, etc
5)What kind of hands should be avoided from SB-MP?

Thanks

[/ QUOTE ]

Sounds pretty good, i normally limp with TT and JJ to bust someone who gets attached to their TPTK on a 942 flop. Suited aces are pretty crappy 6 handed because rarely does anyone have anything they're willing to pay off a nut flush with (except the underflush of course). consequently, i'll play them only in LP and only against a minraise. as for the SB, im super tight out of it as im UTG after the flop and everyone is so aggro 6 handed. could be a leak, but i doubt i'm losing much value. one major change is that those "danger hands" full table are not so bad 6 handed, and i like to make a lot of raises with them as taking down the blinds/limpers is good value. i've been known to raise 6xBB with everyone limping to me on the button with K9, QT, J8 etc. if i think i can take it down.

fim

wdbaker
09-16-2004, 04:43 AM
After reading this thread, thought I should try the 6max 25nl, played a couple tables and made some quick scratch. It was a bit more LAG then my normal 100nl 10player tables, money changing hands fast, luckily into my hands, I'll have to play once in while when I'm feeling frisky maybe.

It actually felt a bit like limit games but of course with the ability to do some pushing around with the stack /images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Players didn't seem all the impressive either, guess that should be expected, probably much diff on the 100nl 6max...

One Street at a Time
wdbaker Denver, Co

tripdad
09-16-2004, 03:27 PM
the best line here is to never limp w/any rag ace, suited or unsuited. IF you are in the CO or OTB, you should raise with A8 or better...suited or not. i would also never limp in after limpers with anything less than ATs in LP unless i have a read on limper and can put him on trash most of the time, in which case, i'll raise with ATo as well as ATs. still mucking A9 or lower, though.

cheers!

amoeba
09-16-2004, 03:50 PM
[ QUOTE ]
the best line here is to never limp w/any rag ace, suited or unsuited. IF you are in the CO or OTB, you should raise with A8 or better...suited or not. i would also never limp in after limpers with anything less than ATs in LP unless i have a read on limper and can put him on trash most of the time, in which case, i'll raise with ATo as well as ATs. still mucking A9 or lower, though.

cheers!

[/ QUOTE ]

thats a fine tight line, I'm just saying if you are going to limp with A8s, you should also limp with A2s.

tripdad
09-16-2004, 03:58 PM
[ QUOTE ]
thats a fine tight line, I'm just saying if you are going to limp with A8s, you should also limp with A2s.

[/ QUOTE ]

fair enough, but you should never do either 'less it's from the SB, where position is not as important for speculative hands.

cheers!

amoeba
09-16-2004, 04:07 PM
really? maybe its because of my big hatred of SB.I think I play this position tighter than all other positions.

I am liable to do this limp on the button with lots of limpers.

tripdad
09-16-2004, 04:31 PM
no one is really fond of SB, but it is a very easy position to play IMO. i'm looking to flop a monster to slow play, and will complete with any 2-gapper, suited connector, any suited A or K...basically speculative hands other than "any two suited"...they need to be connected i think. of course, the BB needs to be one who will check it most of the time.

if you pick up a draw to the nuts, you check mostly, and call when they give you odds, fold when they don't. obviously, sometimes you will bet out with the big draws as well to mix things up.

cheers!