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Schneids
08-10-2004, 06:14 AM
I'd love to hear constructive criticism or positive feedback on the following. I don't know where I'm going but maybe I'll get somewhere:


1) You cannot test someone's hand strength on the flop in a Party game, ever, in a HU pot by raising their bet. This raise accomplishes nothing unless you already have a strong grasp on their playing tendencies; and even with this you must know their tendencies when HU.

Otherwise, it's worthless. Being reraised might mean nothing. It might mean the nuts. If someone calls the only thing you know is that they called. If they 3-bet the only thing you know is they 3-bet. The simple fact is the vast majority of Party players play so bad and so unreadable that most of these raises do not accomplish anything in terms of helping to read an opponent's hand, and you're rarely going to be comfortable enough to act on it even when you're given a read you might be beat.


2) In multiway pots more often than not you raise on the flop not to find out information from your primary opponent's hand (ie the preflop aggressor), but to find out stuff about the other involved peoples' hands.

Here is an example hand where I think it's correct to raise on the flop "for information":

You raise UTG with TT. Button cold calls. BB 3-bets. You and button call. Flop JJ3r; BB bets, you raise, button cold calls, BB 3-bets. Ok. Information granted. Get outta the pot now. You fold, and get to see BB's AA and button's QJ at showdown. It's hardly shocking that button had trips. And BB's 3-bet confirms you're in hot water against him too.

Summary: Just about the only kinds of flops where you may be able to raise "for information" are very uncoordinated, draw unfriendly flops. Otherwise, forget about it.


3) Against the right opponents calling is often times more telling of their strength; especially ones that are expecting aggressiveness out of you.

Here is a sample hand where I think calling accomplishes more than check-raising. This occurred in a live 10-handed game, but for all purposes I think it's applicable on Party too:

4 limpers, you complete in SB with 55. Flop 774. You check (ok I agree betting out has some merits but lets say you checked which is equally solid IMO), BB bets, amazingly all fold around to you. BB is a solid playing regular in your game and knows you to be the same. If you check raise you know BB will 3-bet about the right amount (by game theory) with both a seven or a 4, and likewise will call about the right amount with both. So raising accomplishes nothing in terms of "testing the waters." Call and check the turn. The turn comes an unscary nine. You check, BB checks. Fantastic. It now looks like we've scared the crap outta BB with our smooth call, we can practically dark bet the river now. River brings another blank and you bet and get called. YHIG. By raising on the flop you're making the pot larger and giving the man with position more incentive to again try to make a move for the pot. And against a solid player who does this the right amount of the time, that's scary since it's hard to fold yet he has the edge with his position and he'll end up taking more from you than you will from him both by inducing incorrect folds or by only extracting the max when he has you beat.

One of the best ways to fight an opponent expecting aggression from you is with passivity.


4)When a lot of people start playing short handed, they have a lot of misplaced aggression and questions about "how hard should I be playing this hand? How much semi-bluffing should I be doing? What's the right amount of bla-bla..."

Here's a hint: flop play should rarely ever, by itself, be used to gauge your hand. Flop play is about seeing the river cheaply if you have position and that's your goal. Flop play is about pumping draws when the pots are multiway and you are earning money with the action. Flop play is about setting yourself up for the turn and river, as a way to begin the hand reading process on your opponent (say there was a lot of flop action and someone who was meekly calling on the flop comes to life on a turn blank. This ALWAYS means you're in trouble. Or the infamous bet into the raiser who raises, call, then check raise the raiser on the turn...). Flop play is about getting people to start playing back at you with worse hands, so you can then charge them on both the flop and turn with your strong hands. This is the largeset key IMO. You want your strongest hands to get you action on both the flop AND later streets, since this is far more profitable than playing it slowly on the flop just so you can get 2 bets on the turn. Flop play is about being aggressive to the point that people will get suspicious when you smooth call the flop and raise on the turn (which should buy you a few victories in smaller pots with very vulnerable hands which might be losing, but contain scary boards. See the 22 hand here (http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=headsup&Number=788194&Foru m=All_Forums&Words=lyrical&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&M ain=788194&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=4677&dat erange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertyp e=&bodyprev=#Post788194) for details with further assessment halfway down the thread between me and Stripsqueez). These are all the functions of flop play.


5) All this said I know it sounds like a contradiction. I'm saying plenty about passivity yet I'm claiming the key to good flop play is being able to get excessive action on the street without it killing your action on the later more expensive streets. I know I do not hold all the answers to being a success at this, but I do believe it starts with recognizing when and where you can afford unrelenting aggression. Most of the time it is in heads up pots with position. You are probably in the pot because you have a decent hand. So push it hard against those blind defenders who play bad. Maybe they'll fold and you'll win the pot. Maybe they won't, but hey you tried and made an investment. This is the start of your power. From here it extends to creating an overall aura -- a powerful image that people do not forget. You don't have to be hyper-aggressive in every multiway pot; just often enough so nobody forgets it. You actually play very sane and only bet/raise with the goods in the multiway pots. People however remember those HU encounters and you going off, so, you create your big action in the biggest hands and the most people to pay you. The rest is just treading water. The table is now in your control. It is all one gigantic floor plan for crafting a session.

Nate tha' Great
08-10-2004, 07:13 AM
Awesome post dude.

[ QUOTE ]
1) You cannot test someone's hand strength on the flop in a Party game, ever, in a HU pot by raising their bet. This raise accomplishes nothing unless you already have a strong grasp on their playing tendencies; and even with this you must know their tendencies when HU.

[/ QUOTE ]

Replace "ever" with "usually", and bingo. It's rare that I go to war on the flop without a hand; that said I'm quite willing to value cap something like an underpair when the circumstances warrant.

[ QUOTE ]
2) In multiway pots more often than not you raise on the flop not to find out information from your primary opponent's hand (ie the preflop aggressor), but to find out stuff about the other involved peoples' hands.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm not sure how applicable this is. Paired, multiway, rainbow boards might be an exception, since the cold call almost always means trips or a flopped set, but those don't come up too often. Even in those spots, you're often better off just calling, especially if your hand is live, since it's almost impossible to represent trips on the flop, and you'll sometimes get 3-bet by worse hands.

[ QUOTE ]
You raise UTG with TT. Button cold calls. BB 3-bets. You and button call. Flop JJ3r; BB bets, you raise, button cold calls, BB 3-bets. Ok. Information granted. Get outta the pot now. You fold, and get to see BB's AA and button's QJ at showdown.

[/ QUOTE ]

It's probably worth taking a card off there given your implied odds if you spike a T. /images/graemlins/smirk.gif

[ QUOTE ]
3) Against the right opponents calling is often times more telling of their strength; especially ones that are expecting aggressiveness out of you.

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Absolutely.

[ QUOTE ]
4 limpers, you complete in SB with 55. Flop 774. You check (ok I agree betting out has some merits but lets say you checked which is equally solid IMO), BB bets, amazingly all fold around to you. BB is a solid playing regular in your game and knows you to be the same. If you check raise you know BB will 3-bet about the right amount (by game theory) with both a seven or a 4, and likewise will call about the right amount with both.

[/ QUOTE ]

A good opponent will *not* always check-behind on the turn, especially if he senses that you're capable of taking a card off without too much in that spot. And if he does check behind, he probably has outs to beat you, which isn't wonderful. The point is that good players are capable of using their positional advantage in all sorts of annoying ways, including taking free cards and cheap showdowns. You might love the way that you played the sample hand but there's a good argument that you'd have gotten him to pay you off for another 1.5 BB had you retained the initiative.

[ QUOTE ]
Flop play is about getting people to start playing back at you with worse hands, so you can then charge them on both the flop and turn with your strong hands. This is the largeset key IMO. You want your strongest hands to get you action on both the flop AND later streets, since this is far more profitable than playing it slowly on the flop just so you can get 2 bets on the turn. Flop play is about being aggressive to the point that people will get suspicious when you smooth call the flop and raise on the turn (which should buy you a few victories in smaller pots with very vulnerable hands which might be losing, but contain scary boards.

[/ QUOTE ]

You understand the (slight) contradiction here? If you *never* slowplayed on the flop then it becomes impossible to execute those sorts of quasi-steals that your talking about, or to pick up those helpful free cards on the turn. That said, the threat of a slowplay is usually persistant enough (since most people slowplay too often) that you may not need to demonstrate that you are capable of slowplaying yourself - it's a have-your-cake-and-eat-it-too scenario.

chio
08-10-2004, 08:06 AM
i think this paragraph sums it all up

"flop play should rarely ever, by itself, be used to gauge your hand. Flop play is about seeing the river cheaply if you have position and that's your goal. Flop play is about pumping draws when the pots are multiway and you are earning money with the action. Flop play is about getting people to start playing back at you with worse hands, so you can then charge them on both the flop and turn with your strong hands"

i think the last statement is key, knowing when to raise the flop even with a monster hand because you know there is a good chance the opponent will play back at you with a worse hand, at which point you will get multiple bets from them on the flop AND turn.

if you just smooth called the flop, in most cases it seems like you will only get in one raise on the turn anyway. and against those hands that you'll get multiple raises on the turn, you could have gotten those raises in AND raises on the flop. this works especially well in multiway pots with position where you can also trap other opponents for multiple bets who are drawing or even drawing dead to 1 pair or 2 pair

great post

stripsqueez
08-10-2004, 08:59 AM
interesting stuff - lots of it rings true for me

i played a couple of 5/10 5 max games at paradise tonight (together with some PLO) - its been a while since i played more than a 20 hand session here - i was amused by the number of times i raised before the blinds pre-flop, got 3 way action, bet the ragged flop and they all fold

played in a bunch of crazy 15/30 6 max games lately - its almost not possible to win a pot on the flop - i find myself calculating if my AQ high is probably good when deciding to bet with 2 other guys who i know arent going to fold - often if i think i'm in front i keep on betting and pretty much ignore them till i get to the turn - as you say i am focused on whether i'm going to showdown and how best to do it if i am - in the simplest terms i have little respect for what they do on the flop

i open raised from the cutoff in this game yesterday with Q10s and got heads up with the super aggro BB who i know well - the flop was 3 rank challenged cards with 2 diamonds and i had spades - i got check raised and then capped when i 3 bet - the turn was another rank challenged, non diamond card and we capped the turn - seems bizarre (and i'm not sure if its good or bad) but i knew this guy knew me (which meant he knew i was in front to give this action) and unless he hit a set which didnt happen when he just called pre-flop it was big odds he was betting his flush draw - he never stops betting a flush draw - his aggression gave him away

not the first time we have had this encounter and sometimes a diamond rivers and sometimes it doesnt - it was new though that i had Q high to bluff an aggro

my point i suppose is that your musings are as you say applicable to the silly party 6 max game - some sense can be made of it but its not a good game - i made a mental note to play some more at paradise so i can keep touch with reality

stripsqueez - chickenhawk

Schneids
08-11-2004, 04:38 AM
[ QUOTE ]
in the simplest terms i have little respect for what they do on the flop

[/ QUOTE ]

This says about all that needs to be said about my thoughts as well.

Your Q-high play is crazy (in a good, yet odd way). I really hope he didn't miss the flush and then check/call a k-high or weak a-high that missed.

Schneids
08-11-2004, 04:50 AM
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
1) You cannot test someone's hand strength on the flop in a Party game, ever, in a HU pot by raising their bet. This raise accomplishes nothing unless you already have a strong grasp on their playing tendencies; and even with this you must know their tendencies when HU.

[/ QUOTE ]

Replace "ever" with "usually", and bingo. It's rare that I go to war on the flop without a hand; that said I'm quite willing to value cap something like an underpair when the circumstances warrant.


[/ QUOTE ]

I suppose I'll grant you that.

[ QUOTE ]

[ QUOTE ]
You raise UTG with TT. Button cold calls. BB 3-bets. You and button call. Flop JJ3r; BB bets, you raise, button cold calls, BB 3-bets. Ok. Information granted. Get outta the pot now. You fold, and get to see BB's AA and button's QJ at showdown.

[/ QUOTE ]

It's probably worth taking a card off there given your implied odds if you spike a T. /images/graemlins/smirk.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Some of us aren't as lucky as you. /images/graemlins/smirk.gif


[ QUOTE ]

[ QUOTE ]
4 limpers, you complete in SB with 55. Flop 774. You check (ok I agree betting out has some merits but lets say you checked which is equally solid IMO), BB bets, amazingly all fold around to you. BB is a solid playing regular in your game and knows you to be the same. If you check raise you know BB will 3-bet about the right amount (by game theory) with both a seven or a 4, and likewise will call about the right amount with both.

[/ QUOTE ]

A good opponent will *not* always check-behind on the turn, especially if he senses that you're capable of taking a card off without too much in that spot. And if he does check behind, he probably has outs to beat you, which isn't wonderful. The point is that good players are capable of using their positional advantage in all sorts of annoying ways, including taking free cards and cheap showdowns. You might love the way that you played the sample hand but there's a good argument that you'd have gotten him to pay you off for another 1.5 BB had you retained the initiative.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah there probably could have been an extra 1.5BB to be gotten in that hand. But if you play it that way then you're opening yourself up to putting in 2-3BB's in the times where it'll be more likely you're beat. Basically, I think this type of hand it's better to keep the pot small as the more often you let the pot grow larger, the more likely it is you're beat as the pot ranges grow larger... If that makes sense.

Like say you just have it in your mind to check/call unless he checks behind the turn then you'll bet the river. The range of BB's you put in is exactly 1.5BB or 2.5BB (barring the rare occasions opponent checks the turn with trips and raises you on the river). Versus check raising the flop and retaining the initiative. Now your range looks more like: 3BB-4BB. In this spot the times you put in 3.5BB or 4BB I think you lose the hand much more often than the first instance when you put in 2.5BB (as this opponent will often continue to bet A4). 1BB difference in both ways min and max occurence, yet in the second scenario it's more likely you're losing when you reach the higher end of your range.

Schneids
08-11-2004, 05:04 AM
[ QUOTE ]
i think this paragraph sums it all up

"flop play should rarely ever, by itself, be used to gauge your hand. Flop play is about seeing the river cheaply if you have position and that's your goal. Flop play is about pumping draws when the pots are multiway and you are earning money with the action. Flop play is about getting people to start playing back at you with worse hands, so you can then charge them on both the flop and turn with your strong hands"

i think the last statement is key, knowing when to raise the flop even with a monster hand because you know there is a good chance the opponent will play back at you with a worse hand, at which point you will get multiple bets from them on the flop AND turn.

if you just smooth called the flop, in most cases it seems like you will only get in one raise on the turn anyway. and against those hands that you'll get multiple raises on the turn, you could have gotten those raises in AND raises on the flop. this works especially well in multiway pots with position where you can also trap other opponents for multiple bets who are drawing or even drawing dead to 1 pair or 2 pair

[/ QUOTE ]

I think it's also worth noting that raising the flop against good opposition may well be the only way you get any **extra** money out of them as they may recognize a flop smooth-call and turn raise combo to signify great strength and lay down to your turn raise right away, where as the excessive flop action may tie them into going to showdown.

Nate tha' Great
08-11-2004, 05:16 AM
[ QUOTE ]
Like say you just have it in your mind to check/call unless he checks behind the turn then you'll bet the river. The range of BB's you put in is exactly 1.5BB or 2.5BB (barring the rare occasions opponent checks the turn with trips and raises you on the river). Versus check raising the flop and retaining the initiative. Now your range looks more like: 3BB-4BB. In this spot the times you put in 3.5BB or 4BB I think you lose the hand much more often than the first instance when you put in 2.5BB (as this opponent will often continue to bet A4). 1BB difference in both ways min and max occurence, yet in the second scenario it's more likely you're losing when you reach the higher end of your range.

[/ QUOTE ]

There's a logical fallacy in here somewhere - I'm quite certain of it - only I'm too tired to find it. /images/graemlins/blush.gif

Ulysses
08-11-2004, 05:58 AM
Play fast on the flop, no reason not to. Make moves on streets where people care.

Anything else?

Schneids
08-11-2004, 06:48 AM
[ QUOTE ]
Play fast on the flop, no reason not to. Make moves on streets where people care.

Anything else?

[/ QUOTE ]

Notice I never claimed it'd be "short" random musings.

Some of us use many words and others few. I prefer saving Cliff Notes for Shakespeare. /images/graemlins/grin.gif

chio
08-11-2004, 07:52 AM
i agree

the average player nowadays is calling you down with any piece of the board, but even morons will only call down after being raised on the turn unless they have 2 pair or better

Benjamin
08-11-2004, 12:53 PM
[ QUOTE ]
the average player nowadays is calling you down with any piece of the board, but even morons will only call down after being raised on the turn unless they have 2 pair or better

[/ QUOTE ]

Hmm ... seems to me that if you are folding your TPGK or overpair to a turn raise all the time then you are giving up too much, especially if the pot is biggish. I see turn raises with top pair bad kicker, a draw, or worse /images/graemlins/shocked.gif quite frequently.

Benjamin

chio
08-11-2004, 02:13 PM
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
the average player nowadays is calling you down with any piece of the board, but even morons will only call down after being raised on the turn unless they have 2 pair or better

[/ QUOTE ]

Hmm ... seems to me that if you are folding your TPGK or overpair to a turn raise all the time then you are giving up too much, especially if the pot is biggish. I see turn raises with top pair bad kicker, a draw, or worse /images/graemlins/shocked.gif quite frequently.

Benjamin

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oops i realize my statement came out entirely wrong, i didn't mean people with 2 pair or better are the only ones to call down after a turn raise. i meant that they will only play back at your turn raise with 2 pair or better usually. thus you won't get in more than 1 raise on the turn for most of your monster hands anyway

dont know if that cleared things up or not

Benjamin
08-11-2004, 02:43 PM
[ QUOTE ]
dont know if that cleared things up or not

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep. /images/graemlins/grin.gif